I am posting this in the powerfc forum because I believe the solution lies in the tuning, although I may be completely wrong. When I bought my car it had 850cc primaries and ~1600cc secondaries. I rebuilt the engine about 500 miles ago and I had all of the injectors serviced at that point. When I got a datalogit I had a lot of trouble leaning out the idle without making it run or tip-in poorly, so I decided to swap with RotaryResurrection for a set of recently cleaned 550s. That's where my problems started. After installing the 550s in the primary rail (with a .125" spacer on each to raise them to the original level off of the modified rail) I loaded Chuck Westbrook's non-sequential map. The only parameter I changed was the secondary injector flow to 1600. I tried to start the car and it gave a few pops like it was going to start and then died. I pulled the plugs and they were soaking wet. At that point I suspected an injector leak so I pulled the primary rail and checked for leakage. There was none. I also checked resistance from the ecu to the EGI main relay, which was good for both at about 13.6 ohms apiece. I gave them each a tap of 12v, and they gave a nice quick spray. So I have concluded that the injectors themselves are not at fault. I deflooded the car and tried starting with the "default" map, with Chuck's map with varied injector percentages, and with the stock ecu. All of these yielded the same couple of pops and then flood. I've checked spark and it looks fine (when the plugs are dry). I also opened up the air bleed screw under the throttle body some to see if I was choking the engine somehow. Still no improvement. I am hoping for some ideas of where to go from here. The car was running fine, if a bit rich, right before I swapped in these injectors. They were the only modification I made between running and not running. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

Sorry but too many variables to go over. Just check that all injector settings in the PFC are correct and that the CORRECT connector is on the CORRECT injector as they are so close that they can be swithed.

 

Would you be willing to take a glance at a log I took when I tried to start it and this phenomenon occurred? Just to see if there's anything obviously out of whack?

 

I am currently working away from home without a way to few other people's logs.

Since the engine was pulled an rebuilt, it could have hoses or connectors improperly installed depending on who did the job. Kyle and I have seen hatchet jobs which were terrible. Or it could be something simple. Logs do not tell you this!

We always suggest that during a rebuild, replace the ecu-engine harness and ignition harness if the car still has the original as they were crap and have seriously deterioted. We have had problems just due to old-bad harnesses.

 

I rebuilt the engine and it ran beautifully up until I swapped in these injectors. The harness is fine as far as the injectors go - I measured resistance from the two ecu terminals through the injectors and to the EGI main relay and it checked out. The only reason I was asking about checking the log is to see if there was any parameter that was obviously out of whack - as in I broke a wire during disassembly or reassembly. Anyway, I bought another set of injectors and rail and I'll report back next week if they work or not. Thanks for your reply.

 

Post the .dat file or send me a PM and I'll look at the log for you.

 

Thanks twokrx7, here's the log.

 

I had the same sounding problem to you, check the o rings on the injectors for any splits and make sure they are seated properly.

 

I just got the log, will look at it later tonite.

I second royston's comments about the o-ring leak.

 

Your problem is the seal around the primary injectors and the rail. You need to replace the stock grommets around the rail.

Jason

 

I looked at the log and yep you have one hell of a leak somewhere, the vacuum is very low at your idle condition.

 

Thanks for taking a look twokrx7, but it's not idling - it's just cranking. I can't get it to start.

 

OK all better now, didn't need to swap injectors. I just misread the wiring diagram a couple of times like an idiot and switched connectors. It's always the simple things. And in regard to the comments on the rail grommets, that was not the culprit this time. I've got some spares now though in case I need to pull the rail again. Thanks for the help

 

Glad it was something simple!

 

Gee Whiz, got that one!