Gamezilla

Well, I've been having a lot of problems with my car in the past month. To make a long story short I spent a lot of money going after what I thought it was only to find out it I was getting poor voltage readings even after I replaced sensors. I bought a new harness and that didnt help much. Still had tons of trouble getting past 4k rpms. Drives fine below 4k for some reason. It feels and sounds like the car just goes mega rich once the secondaries kick on.

I swapped my friends PFC on. His was tuned for a t78, but still only ran 10psi of boost. I figured if anything it would run richer, so I could at least see if a different ecu would solve my problem. Well, his was also tuned for stock injectors. I have 850cc primaries. Of course the car had some issues cruising, but the second I went WOT, WTF! The car came back to life and pulled to 8k no problem. Im still only making 7psi of boost, but after a long fight with my wastegate rod Im pretty sure the wastegate is stuck open, causing my boost issues.

Now, the previous wiring harness was in worse than bad shape. Pretty much every wire was split open somewhere. Knock sensor wire was frayed in two. Only thing holding the knock sensor on was the plastic casing of the wire (at least what was left of it). A couple of the unused plugs would spark if touched to a ground. Real bad stuff. Is it possible that could have shorted out my PFC? Would it have fried it? Could a retune just solve it? Before I go running out to a tuner, how do I see if my PFC is fried?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You need a DATALOGIT to down load your DAT file, then reinitialize the PFC, then reload the dat. Then drive it. Also copy your friends dat and try that in your PFC.

I live near Sugar Land, if you want to meet PM me. I have a DATALOGIT and wideband O2 sensor.

Gamezilla

Im in San An right now for college. Does it sound like my PFC is fried or that is possibly just got freaked out and the maps are bad.

Gamezilla

Actually, is there a way to reset it to the base maps? I have intake/dp/mp/exhaust. Does the PFC need to know its a non-sequential setup or will it just learn it?

Gamezilla

Well, I just sat down and reprogrammed the base mod map into it. Car still drives like ***. That pretty much means my ecu is toast. ****.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

From the bad Power FC's I have seen they either work or the car wont start. It doesnt sound like its the power fc to me. You can reset it by going to "etc" and intializing all data.

Jason

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

If you still have the problem when you get back to Houston, PM me.

Gamezilla

Actually, I've got it fixed now. Need to retune, but I needed to do that before I had any problems with the car. All is good.

Alpine

What was wrong with your pfc before?

Gamezilla

For some reason the PIM voltage was set to option2. I have no clue why or how. I hadnt even touched the ecu until AFTER the car started to have problems. And it seemed I did have 2 things go wrong at once. On top of that my wastegate is stuck open.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Disconnect the actutor and see if the arm moves normally. If the actuator is bad, I might have a spare.

Gamezilla

Well, way back in Sept, when I first started having problems I got under the car and tried to manually move the rod (with the actuator still on). I couldnt get it to budge in either direction. Took some pliers and got a nice grip. Thing is frozen solid. There should be a used but working actuator in the mail for me right now. If that doesnt fix it the only other cause might be the flapper is broken or the cracks around the flapper have grown too big. I do know that when the previous owner had the turbos rebuild he complained of excessive cracking in the housing. On top of that its been suggested my random smoking is coming from a bad oil seal in my secondary turbo. Looks like I'll be replacing them sooner than I hoped. Oh well. If the actuator doesnt fix it i'll just deal with only making 7psi of boost until the secondary craps iteslf. Then on to a T78.