Yes, we can get V-blocks. I have a couple sets on order, which I will be adding to the web site shortly. They will be about $25 a pair, I anticipate.

I have not had time to add the HD Water Seal kit to the web site. We sell it separately for $195, which includes the water jacket o-rings, dowel o-rings, front cover o-ring and backup washer (if needed), oil pedistal o-rings and rear stationary gear o-ring. These are all Viton-based, not the encapsulated junk.

I can add these items to the web site real quick, if you want to place an order.

 

Blake, are these both inner and outer coolant o-rings? How is the fitment with them? I've installed some inner coolant o-rings from RA and they are a tremendous pain in the *** to work with, they were a smidge too small.

 

Well, you will have to "work" them to size, but it's not a hard process. We fill the seal grooves with crisco (applied with a big syringe) and that sticks the seals in place really well. Then, you just rub them out or in to get them to sit perfectly in the grooves. Takes just a few minutes to put them all in place.

That gives me an idea...we will shoot a video, so you can see how easy it is. Shoot tomorrow evening and it should be available on the rebuildingrotaryengines.com site by Monday or Tuesday.

 

I will order the vblocks as soon as you get them on the site. Thats a great price. As for the close up kit it comes with the tension bolts orings/washer combo as well?

And just to clarify, the inner and outer water jacket o rings are all reusable?

Thanks,

Anthony

 

I don't know what a "close up kit" is, but our HD water seal kit includes the water seal o-rings, the dowel o-rings, front cover o-ring and backup washer, oil pedistal o-rings and rear stationary gear o-ring. We do not recommend replacment of tension bolt washers for the simple fact that we have never seen a used one fail. Save your money.

Yes. We have re-used them when freshening motors. In seven years of testing and three years of having them on the market to the public, we have not had to replace one yet. They appear to last indefinitly, even in moderate overheat situations. You just take them out, let them rest for a while and they return to round and appear just a fresh as when they were originally installed. I can't comment on longevity past 10 years or in extreme overheat or other abuse situations, however. Nothing is indestructable.

 

double post, sorry...

 

In my endless searching for a way to revitalize a housing, cermet etc... I came across this site last night. I would like to get your opinion and ask if you've ever heard of this stuff before. They make some wild claims but cermet is supposed to be really helpful stuff. I don't know if anyone has spoken about this stuff before. Any input is appreciated.

Chris

http://www.xadoindia.com/index.php

 

Honestly? Snake oil. Too good to be true. Just my opinion.

 

would it be possible to put s5 high compression rotars in a s4 block and then streetport what other mods would i have to do to have reliebility i would like to break 200hp with a streetport i would also have full exhaust from the header back and im thinking about putting s5 intake manifolds on what is your opinion on this?

 

Blake,

Can you shed some light on how you guys clearance your apex seal length compared to the width of the rotor housing.

Thanks,

Anthony

 

Yes, you can put S5 rotors in an S4 core, but you need the whole rotating assembly (at least the front counterweight and flywheel or auto rear counterweight). S5 and S4 have different weights.

200hp is doable at the flywheel but it's hard to get that to the ground. We have seen as high as 190rwhp on an S5 NA with medium streetport, radiused 6 port inserts, full exhaust and S-AFC. The results reflect the "package" not the individual mods. When you work with a systems-approach, the results are always better than the sum of the parts.

 

Did you call in earlier and talk to Rob? If so, you should have the answer. If not, fill me in on what you are working with...single or two piece and application (racing, street, etc).

 

Blake,

Thanks a lot for the info, I called and spoke to Rob earlier today inquiring about the ports in a motor that you did for a friend of mine vs the ports that you will be selling. Thanks for the help and the time on the phone.

Anthony

 

thanks for the info so about the s5 intake manifolds on a s4 i have been hearing some good and bad things about it. if im going down the path of trying to break 200hp would this be somthin for me to look into pretty much converting into a s5 motor? also if i was to use s5 rotors in the s4 block i would need a s5 flywheel with a s5 counter weight? any other things i would need off an s5? clutch, ext

 

Blake,

I'm having a hard time when trying to get measurements of the inside diameter of the rotor bearing. I'm using a telescoping depth gauge, not the one with the dial indicator on top, just the regular "T" ones. I then measure it with the micrometer. The strange thing is that the rotor bearings are reading smaller than the eshaft. I assume I'm not taking the measurements exactly in the middle of the bearing so I take a reading, lock the gauge, and then spin in and if it spins freely, I open it up in that area and spin it again etc.. and usually take a few readings....

Even with all of that, I am still getting readings very close. For example....
Rear Rotor Bearing - 2.9140
Eshaft Rear Lobe - 2.9132
Difference - .0008 which according to Mazda is too tight. (16-32 recommended with a 43max) I assume my measurements are off.

If you move slightly, or off angle, etc the readings are off. I ended putting the eshaft on the bearing and using a feeler guage... Any tips on how to take accurate measurements for the rotor bearing? I think I need to get the ones that are used for piston engines with the guage on top, is that what you guys use?

Thanks!

Anthony

 

Anthony,

Yes, we use a a bore gauge with a dial indicator. You can see the method in one of our free weekly videos on RebuildingRotaryEngines.com

 

If using the ceramic rotor housing resurfacing and ceramic apex seals, is lubrication (OMP or pre-mix) necessary?

 

Yes.

 

I went to the Evans website and read their FAQ. It recommends not using the thermostat and plugging the bypass hole. Do you agree? My car will be mostly used for track days / driver schools and occasional weekend street driving. I am using an aftermarket ECU and single turbo.

 

I would keep the thermostat unless the car were absolutely race only.

 

Hey Blake, Do you know of any places in the metro area that could replace rotor and star gear bearings?

 

We can do it for you. Call to set up a time and get a price. Do you already have the bearings? If not, we can provide them too.

 

I agree. I'm using Evans with a v-mount. I've drilled my t-stat with 4 3/16th holes and it's hard to get my engine up to temps when cold. Even worse is that the engine doesn't get to normal temps while driving in cooler weather.

For example it was about 60F the other day, and I drove about 50 miles easy driving. The engine temp would not go above 65C.

I'm hoping that this setup will work well on the once-in-a-while track visit.

 

Thanks for the thermostat advice -- I will retain it when I switch to Evans NPG+.

Now for a different item -- how about the air bleeds? My engine is a 13B-RE, and my parts are in good condition. For my performance application, should I retain them?

For those that aren't familiar, they appear on Mazdatrix's website, if you scroll down the page. http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm

 

Keep them...always.