Unfortunately, you are not going to find much information about the specific application of a 1J/2J into an FD anywhere. There are a few places that will make you a harness, but they are tight-lipped the actual process for obvious reasons. There is no posted guide for wiring this swap like their are for the LS engines. If you choose to do it yourself, like I did, be prepared to spend some time with both the Toyota and Mazda electrical manuals. If you are just keeping the factory harness and connecting the necessary +12V constant, +12V switched, and grounds, it isn't really too bad. When you get into harness simplification, adding sensors, removing sensors, etc. that's where it gets a little more tricky. If wiring isn't something you are very comfortable taking on, I would recommend getting someone else to modify your harness for you.

 

I assume a haltech would suffice with the wiring?

 

That motor is insanely high. Here is my 2J (1" taller than 1JZ).

EDIT: And yes, this is with perfectly corrected bump-steer...and no, I didn't cut that hole. The car came with a V-Mount intercooler.
Hood is latched. It clears, but only without the oil fill cap.

 

I'm not very familiar with the Haltech wiring harness, but yes, that would take care of the engine control for the most part. You would still have to take care of the dash sensor connections, alternator wiring, and a few other things.

My 2J fits under my hood with no hole



Still haven't gotten to the bump steer correction just yet though...but I have a plan for that.

 

I dunno, Dev.
From my calculations, the engine is just way too close to the ground.

I hope once you get it driving, and bouncing around on the street that you will prove otherwise. (That it's very street-able.)

Perhaps I'm too conservative on what I believe a proper "ride-height" should be.

 

I don't plan to "slam" the car, and my tires aren't exactly low profile (buys me over 1/2"), so that should help a tad.

 

I would like to know what angle the engines sit at using the tech 2 kit. I sat my engine between 2-3* down in the rear, and will match that when I finish the diff mount.

Using a manual converted rack now, I could have raised my steering rack back up enough to be within 1" of the factory location.

I hope to have her driving and prove my beliefs soon...I hope

My idea of a "proper" ride height:

 

I sat mine level because I measured near-zero motor angle off a bone stock Supra. Who knows if that's correct, but it should at least be close.

 

The engine is parallel to the ground.
Semi-solid engine mounts bolted to the flat surface of the subframe.

 

So what are YOU guys doing about bumpsteer?

I still haven't found a solution to mine, since I need about 2" spacers to make up for having my steering rack lowered 2"...

Help?

 

If I may...

Brent is on a Tech2 kit, so no correction needed.
I'm on a Samberg V8 cradle and appropriate corrective rod ends.
GSX (Devon, iirc), last we spoke, was planning to use the car for drag 99% of the time, and sort it out if the bumpsteer was an issue

Pardon me if I'm incorrect.

 

Pretty close for me (misspelled my name, but I get that all the time - Devin)
I started my car as a drag build, but have been reconsidering putting it on the street lately . My rack is about 1.5" lower than stock, so I will likely be making some custom length tie rod spacers.

 

Sorry about that!

I'm sure it'll be too fun to resist taking it out for a ride at some point!

On a semi-related note, do you have links to any wiring diagrams you used to get everything hooked up, chassis side?

 

No worries man. It happens all the time. It will definitely come out onto the street for some fun .
For the chassis side of the wiring, I used the body electric FSM:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...wnload-449950/

 

:/ I guess I really am just gonna have to have some stuff custom-made for my setup, since I didn't use any retail "swap kit"...my subframe, etc. were all just custom-modified.

Oy vey.

 

Anybody have the tech2 kit? Their motor mounts sag like crazy.

 

I hope so, regarding to my high mounted engine

 

Time to buy some hockey pucks and a grade 8 bolt!

Seriously though, the mounts they use (Google: "1991 ford f150 engine mount") are a straight 3 inches or so, IIRC. They should be incredibly easy to replace with something harder/solid/delrin.

 

Not good, one of the brass elbows of the oil line ofthe steering rack starter to rub on the oil pan. Gonna have to file it down.

 

Woohooo, 1jz power



Not done yet...

 

I'm using the stock clutch mastercylinder with the toyota r154 slavecylinder. But my clutch won't "release" like it should. Any sugestions? I've tried to bleed the clutch line several times, and also bought a new slavecylinder. It still does't help. Have ordered a new mastercylinder from mazdatrix.
Do you guys think it would help with the new master?

Any others with the same problem?

 

Did you forget to install the clutch fork? :P