The Tech2 kit has it's issues (poor fitment, awfully soft motor mounts, retains TQ arm), but it's the best option for an off-the-shelf kit, and a good starting point.
I strongly recommend you take a good hard look at v8 swaps before you dive into a 1 or 2J. I'd say that unless you can fabricate/weld your own parts, it isn't something I'd dive into without some very diligent cost research ahead of time. The 1/2JZ is going to cost A LOT more. |
If I decide going ls, doesn't I have to change the whole rear end setup? Witch will be pretty expencive?
And the 1jz with r156 is cheaper than an ls1 with t56 tranny isn't it? Is there any good build threads/sites that can take me throug the whole ls swap process? |
Originally Posted by Justin1
(Post 11190560)
If I decide going ls, doesn't I have to change the whole rear end setup? Witch will be pretty expencive?
And the 1jz with r156 is cheaper than an ls1 with t56 tranny isn't it? Is there any good build threads/sites that can take me throug the whole ls swap process? You don't HAVE to, but it's a great way to insure you don't grenade it. |
The stock 4:10 rear is a great match for an LS1/T56. You'd only blow it up launching (or with bad wheel-hop) anyway, which would be just as likely to happen with a 1J.
Don't take this the wrong way, but if you are already concerned about cost, the JZ swap is definitely not the way to go. MK3Brent (above) has a decent build thread. Most of them get a decent way along and then realize how complicated it's going to be and part everything out. |
Originally Posted by CKxx
(Post 11190671)
Most of them get a decent way along and then realize how complicated it's going to be and part everything out.
My 2JZ project has been roughly 2 1/2 years in the making. My primary delay coming from people half-assing their work on my car and not putting any real sense of pride or effort into it. I tried to save money by having family and "trusted" friends perform the labor, but in the end they all fell through. At this point, my FD is at a local reputable shop and I've already paid them $7,000 in parts/labor to FULLY go through every inch of the car to make sure everything is up to their high standards. When it's all said and done I'm sure I'll have to pay a little more out of my pocket too....the $7,000 was only the initial estimate... :( Keep in mind too that $7,000 is on TOP of the money I've already spent on parts and labor from everyone else to this point....motor, tranny, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, $1,100 custom wiring harness, turbo, manifold, $1,100 AEM EMS V2, and more... Suffice to say, I've probably got an easy $15,000 total invested in this swap. 2JZ swaps are NOT cheap..and had I known it WAS going to be this expensive, time-consuming, and disheartening....I wouldn't have gone through with it in the first place.. I'm more-or-less stuck though because if I sold the car now, I'd be at a H-U-G-E financial loss... Once the swap is complete, car is running great, and I throw on the rims and body mods I have planned....if I decide to NOT keep the car at that point, then I'll end up listing it for sale...something like $25,000+ would be my asking price. |
I didn't part anything out. I'm a working professional that has much on the plate and unfortunately don't have the same free time anymore. It's slowly coming along.
|
Check out my 1jz vvti swap thread.
If you can't do everything yourself, it's not a good swap to start with. This is the most complicated engine conversion I've done. I've got about 120 hours into the swap to get it driving nice. Spent about 5k on motor and parts. Before this swap, i've done 1jz and 2jz datsuns, a 1jz FC rx7, and a bunch of v6 mr2s etc You need to know how to weld and make brackets and parts etc. If you don't... find a friend that does and can teach you. |
This type of comments makes me wonder about this type of swap ...I already havr the motor (1jzgte R154) I've seen sketch using sambergs swap kit
Mk3brent using tech2 but modified to closed the stock hood Yoshifd building one from scratch I think tech2 is the best shot for people like me tha dnt have the correct tools to complete this type of swap ...!!! I jst don't see my car with tech2 hood ..is jst not happening I rather ride wit no hood in the streets of LA ..LOL |
Of Course I wanna do this swap as cheap as possible.
The reason that I wanna do a 1jz/2jz swap is that this engines are the best/easiest/cheapest way to power. I know how to weld, but i'm not an expert. If I buy a seibon hood, and goes with the 1jz, will I still have problems closing the hood? After a quick search on eBay I just can't see how the lsx could be cheaper than the other option. 1jzgte with R154 tranny 2500$ Tech2motorsport swap kit 2500$ ls1 trans am engine with T56 6-speed tranny 5000$ + the swap kit. Well I guess if I had lived in the us a lsx would be the easiest, but here in Norway I think there is more knowlegde with the 1jz than the lsx. This isn't america! I think I have seen only one corvette this year, and many supras! V8 isn't that common over here. Sketch: i will read your build thread, but I guess a vvti swap is More complicated than an "ordinary" 1jz swap. |
Originally Posted by Justin1
(Post 11191475)
The reason that I wanna do a 1jz/2jz swap is that this engines are the best/easiest/cheapest way to power.
Didn't you see my post?? LOL You can't (or at least shouldn't try) to fit in a bone-stock 2JZ-GTE. The twin-turbos take up WAY too much room. So then you need a single turbo setup.. And then you need the support modifications for that single turbo setup... And then you need a way to tune it... Sure, you can go cheap on this, but if you want it done RIGHT....then no, the swap isn't going to be cheap at all. |
But if I want the same amount of power on a lsx, it will be very expensive to build a turbo/twin turbo setup.
If I choose a 1jz setup it would be expensive too, but the engine is built for a turbo,witch the lsx isn't. I probably forgot to mention that my best friend has a badass supra with 730 rwhp, witch he has built by himself. And he also has a dyno, and he is a pretty good tuner. So that's not what i'm worried about. If I want a 600 rwhp setup, I think it would be cheaper with the 1jz, but if I want 350 hp, the lsx setup probably would be the best option. agree ? |
I've finally bought the tech2 kit:nod:
I'm really looking forward to this! Where is the best place to buy my 1jz with the R154 transmission? eBay?? |
try supraforums.com they should have a classified section just like we do here.
|
Originally Posted by MK3Brent
(Post 11191233)
I didn't part anything out. I'm a working professional that has much on the plate and unfortunately don't have the same free time anymore. It's slowly coming along.
|
[QUOTE=Justin1;11192481]I've finally bought the tech2 kit:nod:
I'm really looking forward to this! Where is the best place to buy my 1jz with the R154 transmission? eBay??[/QUOT Zerolift... Always in stock ready to ship Mine didn't came with starter so ask b4 u buy... Remember to ask them for rear sump |
Originally Posted by Justin1
(Post 11192481)
I've finally bought the tech2 kit:nod:
I'm really looking forward to this! Where is the best place to buy my 1jz with the R154 transmission? eBay?? |
1 Attachment(s)
Now I've finally started to work on the swap :)
Do you guys know where I can find some information about the wiring harness? We have test fited the engine, and it seems a bit high. But that was expected. Attachment 688776 |
That's crazy.
You must have more than an inch between your oil pan and steering rack. |
Damn that's too high
So that's how Mine is goin to look Im using tech2 kit and 1jz as well If the motor is goin to be tha high theres no way the scoot hood is goin to fit.... Wow what are u goin to do about the hood ? |
|
Wow, I didn't realize the 1J sat that high with the kit too.
|
Lost with this pic can somebody explain? Lol
|
That would be taking a can opener to your hood :)
|
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by GSXRATED
(Post 11312864)
Wow, I didn't realize the 1J sat that high with the kit too.
With the 1JZ, it should have about 2" of depth from the top edge of the firewall to the valve cover of the 1J head. The 2J, about 1" depth at the rear of the engine bay. You can lower the engine safely to .25" of the rack. For reference: This is my 2J in the FD, custom mounts, NA valve covers: Attachment 688712 |
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the help about the wiring:icon_tup:
But anyway, the engine was just test fitted. Didn't tighten the bolts, so it may be a little bit lower, i'm not sure. But today I realized how much work this is. But i'm sure it will be worth it in the end:nod: Removed the abs unit and some wiring:icon_tup: Attachment 688710 We also started removing the dashboard. And that was a pai in the ass! Attachment 688711 |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:14 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands