Wanna go 2jz but need some help
 

Hi.
I've got my fd rx7 for about 5 years now. And i'm really tired of problems with my 13b, especially when my bestfriend has driven his supra for about 6 years now, including all trackdays etc. With no proplems at all.

So i desided to sell my new built 13b and tries to make as much money as possible of the stuff I don't need anymore.

I wan't do the swap as easy as possible.
So i've figured out that the tech2 kit will be the easiest way around..anyone agree?

Can anyone please explain to me what "bump steer issue" is? (my english is't that good)

Soo..can I use the Seibon hood without alots of modifications?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEIBON-93-02...660ff9&vxp=mtr

And i've read somewhere that the motormounts thats come with the tech2 kit is just crap, so i was wondering if I could just make some aluminium motormounts?

This is only a trackcar, so I just build it for fun. What is the weight of a shortblock 2jz compared to the 13b?

Thanks, Justin

I would do some more searching before committing to this project, as there tends to be quite a bit of custom fabrication involved.

Yeah I see, but i've allready sold the engine, so i'm wondering if the tech2 kit would be the easiest to start with..?

Sell the RX7 buy a Supra. Problem solved, no custom fabrication needed for a car that came with the engine.

You're in for one hell of a project.

2JZ in the FD is one of the stupidest swaps.

Go LS* and don't look back.

Tech2 is the easiest, and you can not use a siebon hood.
Bump steer is what happens when you lower the steering rack. Suspension geometry is broken by moving it. Kit "fixes" it.

I agree with mk3brent. You would have the best time with LS1. Supra swap is very difficult. Rarely completed.

okey, thanks..

and thanks for the support :D haha!

but anyways..if I choose the tech2 kit, do I need a front sump oil pan or is it okey with a back sump ?

You need rear sump. Front does not work.

I say do it, BUT put it in bone stock. Dont build it while trying to do the swap like a lot of us did/are doing. Get it in, get it running and driving then and only then build it. This way you can enjoy the car while you accumulate all the fun power adders. My two cents.

There are a few reasons I modified my motor while building it, not the least of which were to "simplify" the motor (I removed nearly everything I didn't need/want) as well as to make it easier to install many of the parts (manifold, injectors, etc.).

okey I see..

then I will look for a rear sump engine..

Anyone ever ordered from tech2 motorsport? they don't seems to want to respond on my email, guess I'll have to wait a few more days to see..

yeah, I think I will try to make the engine as clean and easy as possible.

what about the power steering, do I need it ? (this is not a dailydriver, only for trackdays,dragrace and som fun on the road)

Would my goodspeed radiator that used to do the work for my 13b be big enough for my 2jz ?

I'm really looking forward to start on this project now, think I'm going for the tech2 kit to start with, and the order an engine..

They will answer eventually. I would think about EXACTLY how you'd like to build the car before you start. Are you going to use a 5 or 6 speed trans? What rear setup?

That radiator is probably large enough, but the inlet/outlet may be poorly placed.

...also, to answer your original questions, that Seibon hood will not work with a 2JZ. I believe it will fit over a 1JZ though.

I was thinking about using the R154, Just because it's the easiest way I think..I thought that the original rear setup could do the work, at least in the begining.

So your saying that the only hood I can use with the tech2 kit is the ugly bugly tech2 hood ?

It would be nicer running without a hood then :P

Concerning the hood, that is correct. There is quite a bit to look into before attempting this swap.


...that is why I'm selling my 2J conversion parts. ;)

Justin, we can modify the stock hood, no need to buy an ugly hood if we can make one for free :P I might have some cool or very laim idea's :D

Yeah.... a hole.

Yeah that sounds good! :biggrin:

I'm sure we will figure something out:nod:

:lol:

I got a 1JZ swap on mine. If you have a little bit of experience fabricating and welding it should not be much of a big deal. Most part are available through tech2, but a bit expensive. The hood can be done by any body shop. I had mine done.

Problems that I ran into with the tech2 kit.
Hood of course
Wiring harness, no instructions from them but a little research online it can be found.
Not ac compatible
Tach (got it working)
Speedometer (not working yet)
Mounts sag a bit after time, oil pan rubs on the steering rack line elbow, can be solved by putting spacers under the mounts or shaving the elbow a bit.
Custom power steering reservoir, got one from a civic :nod:

But it sounds terrific, and pulls like a mother in stock form. Havent had any issues with handling, but I havent tracked the car yet.

Okey, after several hours,weeks and months of waiting for some response from tech2motorsport i've now got tired of waiting? So I've been talking to Shifted Performance, who seems to have much better costumer service, witch in my opinion is very important.

So i'm just waiting for my shipping quote from them.

But i've decided that I will buy a 1jzgte with The R154 gearbox. That will be easier, and cheaper for me.And it will solve the problem with the stock hood as well..

Anyone ever tried Shifted Performance here?

Sigh, I can't believe that guy still generates any business...:scratch:
I think you may want to take a look at this...https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine...ld-yay-909651/

And this...https://www.rx7club.com/bad-fugly-me.../#post10537808

:lol:

Wow... stay clear of those crooks.

A lot of the photos from that thread are missing, but the pictures of the "diff brace" in post #24 pretty much sum it up. That thing looks just about strong enough to hold the diff in place while you build a real mount around it. :lol:

Ooookey! Thanks alot guys! I was just waiting to get a moneyrequest from him, but then I just sent him an email and told him that I did't wan't his kit because of all the bad things that i've read about him.

But I finally talked to the right person at tech2, ans she said that they had one kit in stock. So now i'm just waiting to get my moneyrequest on paypal.

Actually I'm kind of glad it went this way, because It looks like the tech2 kit has pretty good quality, and shifted performance doesnt. I don't know..

Whats a good price for a 1jz with R154 trans? Any ideas? And why are they so damn heavy?

The Tech2 kit has it's issues (poor fitment, awfully soft motor mounts, retains TQ arm), but it's the best option for an off-the-shelf kit, and a good starting point.

I strongly recommend you take a good hard look at v8 swaps before you dive into a 1 or 2J. I'd say that unless you can fabricate/weld your own parts, it isn't something I'd dive into without some very diligent cost research ahead of time. The 1/2JZ is going to cost A LOT more.

If I decide going ls, doesn't I have to change the whole rear end setup? Witch will be pretty expencive?

And the 1jz with r156 is cheaper than an ls1 with t56 tranny isn't it?

Is there any good build threads/sites that can take me throug the whole ls swap process?

Why would you HAVE to?
You don't HAVE to, but it's a great way to insure you don't grenade it.

The stock 4:10 rear is a great match for an LS1/T56. You'd only blow it up launching (or with bad wheel-hop) anyway, which would be just as likely to happen with a 1J.

Don't take this the wrong way, but if you are already concerned about cost, the JZ swap is definitely not the way to go.

MK3Brent (above) has a decent build thread. Most of them get a decent way along and then realize how complicated it's going to be and part everything out.

Amen.

My 2JZ project has been roughly 2 1/2 years in the making.

My primary delay coming from people half-assing their work on my car and not putting any real sense of pride or effort into it.

I tried to save money by having family and "trusted" friends perform the labor, but in the end they all fell through.

At this point, my FD is at a local reputable shop and I've already paid them $7,000 in parts/labor to FULLY go through every inch of the car to make sure everything is up to their high standards. When it's all said and done I'm sure I'll have to pay a little more out of my pocket too....the $7,000 was only the initial estimate...

:(

Keep in mind too that $7,000 is on TOP of the money I've already spent on parts and labor from everyone else to this point....motor, tranny, clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, $1,100 custom wiring harness, turbo, manifold, $1,100 AEM EMS V2, and more...

Suffice to say, I've probably got an easy $15,000 total invested in this swap.

2JZ swaps are NOT cheap..and had I known it WAS going to be this expensive, time-consuming, and disheartening....I wouldn't have gone through with it in the first place..

I'm more-or-less stuck though because if I sold the car now, I'd be at a H-U-G-E financial loss...

Once the swap is complete, car is running great, and I throw on the rims and body mods I have planned....if I decide to NOT keep the car at that point, then I'll end up listing it for sale...something like $25,000+ would be my asking price.

I didn't part anything out. I'm a working professional that has much on the plate and unfortunately don't have the same free time anymore. It's slowly coming along.

Check out my 1jz vvti swap thread.

If you can't do everything yourself, it's not a good swap to start with. This is the most complicated engine conversion I've done. I've got about 120 hours into the swap to get it driving nice. Spent about 5k on motor and parts.

Before this swap, i've done 1jz and 2jz datsuns, a 1jz FC rx7, and a bunch of v6 mr2s etc

You need to know how to weld and make brackets and parts etc. If you don't... find a friend that does and can teach you.

This type of comments makes me wonder about this type of swap ...I already havr the motor (1jzgte R154) I've seen sketch using sambergs swap kit
Mk3brent using tech2 but modified to closed the stock hood
Yoshifd building one from scratch
I think tech2 is the best shot for people like me tha dnt have the correct tools to complete this type of swap ...!!!
I jst don't see my car with tech2 hood ..is jst not happening I rather ride wit no hood in the streets of LA ..LOL

Of Course I wanna do this swap as cheap as possible.

The reason that I wanna do a 1jz/2jz swap is that this engines are the best/easiest/cheapest way to power.

I know how to weld, but i'm not an expert.

If I buy a seibon hood, and goes with the 1jz, will I still have problems closing the hood?

After a quick search on eBay I just can't see how the lsx could be cheaper than the other option.
1jzgte with R154 tranny 2500$
Tech2motorsport swap kit 2500$

ls1 trans am engine with T56 6-speed tranny 5000$ + the swap kit.

Well I guess if I had lived in the us a lsx would be the easiest, but here in Norway I think there is more knowlegde with the 1jz than the lsx.

This isn't america! I think I have seen only one corvette this year, and many supras! V8 isn't that common over here.

Sketch: i will read your build thread, but I guess a vvti swap is More complicated than an "ordinary" 1jz swap.

.....DEFINITELY not the cheapest, my friend.

Didn't you see my post??

LOL

You can't (or at least shouldn't try) to fit in a bone-stock 2JZ-GTE. The twin-turbos take up WAY too much room.

So then you need a single turbo setup..

And then you need the support modifications for that single turbo setup...

And then you need a way to tune it...

Sure, you can go cheap on this, but if you want it done RIGHT....then no, the swap isn't going to be cheap at all.

But if I want the same amount of power on a lsx, it will be very expensive to build a turbo/twin turbo setup.
If I choose a 1jz setup it would be expensive too, but the engine is built for a turbo,witch the lsx isn't.

I probably forgot to mention that my best friend has a badass supra with 730 rwhp, witch he has built by himself. And he also has a dyno, and he is a pretty good tuner. So that's not what i'm worried about.

If I want a 600 rwhp setup, I think it would be cheaper with the 1jz, but if I want 350 hp, the lsx setup probably would be the best option. agree ?

I've finally bought the tech2 kit:nod:

I'm really looking forward to this!

Where is the best place to buy my 1jz with the R154 transmission?

eBay??

try supraforums.com they should have a classified section just like we do here.

+1, I'm still slowly rolling with my project as well. Working 10+ hours a day doesn't leave much free time though!

[QUOTE=Justin1;11192481]I've finally bought the tech2 kit:nod:

I'm really looking forward to this!

Where is the best place to buy my 1jz with the R154 transmission?

eBay??[/QUOT

Zerolift...
Always in stock ready to ship
Mine didn't came with starter so ask b4 u buy...
Remember to ask them for rear sump

get the one from a soarer, I think those are all rear sump.

Now I've finally started to work on the swap :)

Do you guys know where I can find some information about the wiring harness?

We have test fited the engine, and it seems a bit high. But that was expected.

Attachment 688776

That's crazy.

You must have more than an inch between your oil pan and steering rack.

Damn that's too high
So that's how Mine is goin to look
Im using tech2 kit and 1jz as well
If the motor is goin to be tha high theres no way the scoot hood is goin to fit....
Wow what are u goin to do about the hood ?

Wow, I didn't realize the 1J sat that high with the kit too.

Lost with this pic can somebody explain? Lol

That would be taking a can opener to your hood :)

It shouldn't... It's the engine mounts he's using.

With the 1JZ, it should have about 2" of depth from the top edge of the firewall to the valve cover of the 1J head.

The 2J, about 1" depth at the rear of the engine bay.

You can lower the engine safely to .25" of the rack.


For reference:

This is my 2J in the FD, custom mounts, NA valve covers:

Attachment 688712

Thanks for the help about the wiring:icon_tup:

But anyway, the engine was just test fitted. Didn't tighten the bolts, so it may be a little bit lower, i'm not sure.

But today I realized how much work this is. But i'm sure it will be worth it in the end:nod:


Removed the abs unit and some wiring:icon_tup:
Attachment 688710

We also started removing the dashboard. And that was a pai in the ass!
Attachment 688711