ya, 1 distributor. you can control firing angle and order via haltech

 

Is there something more appropriate??

 

mounting a 20b just takes 2 new engine mount brackets... in a FC

 

I think I read someplace that the 20B was supposed to go into the 10th AE, but never made it for various reasons.

 

here's my idea, I've considered this from a few different places and I've thought this would be the best in regards to weight. use the Fd front and end plates and housings, but instead of using the 20B thick centerplate, P-Port the housings and use regular FD centerplates. For the eccentric shaft, take two FD e-shafts, have a machine shop cut and key them into individual sections so it can be pieced together in a manner of your choosing (firing sequence like that of the 4 rotor e-shaft that is sold elsewhere). I'm thinking about doing some designing in google sketchup and seeing what I can come up with.

 

Aside from the e-shaft(s), thats basically what a 26b is.

Now if weight is a concern and you have deep pockets aluminum side plates can be used.

 

Yes, there is. You're talking about a completely custom installation. The appropriate mounting solution would be one that is custom fabricated. . .just like every other component of the build.

What makes you think that ANYTHING will be "off-the-shelf"?

 

no, the "typical" 4 rotor uses 2 large center irons like the ones found in 3 rotors, this is from my understanding, to allow properly sized intake ports. My idea was illiminate the need for those ports by P-porting the housings.

 

No. There is only one genuine MFR 4 rotor-R26B and this engine hasn´t anything like factory... Two center irons that carry stationary gears appear slightly wider then usuall 13B center, but nowhere near like 20B thick plate... And your idea isn´t anything new, actually almost every custom build 4 rotor is short crank-modified 13B/12A center irons, full PP...

 

personally, i dont see why anybody has come up with a modular eccentric shaft/bearing kit..

if you made a modular 1 rotor eshaft, with a bearing journal on one side, and a connecting piece on the other side. With the appropriate centerplate bearings, you could stack the engine as much as you wanted.

 

alot of custom machining and designing goes into projects like that. they arent meant for the unskilled by any means

 

something like this little beauty I found over on rx8club

 

The real 26b is way different the just two engine slap together. The e-shaft has the rotor phased at 90 instead of 180 like the 2 rotor engines. That is why they sound so good because of the order they fire at. You could sort of phase them the same by rotating the the shafts 90 and get it that way but I think work better when they are phased front to back 90 intervals.

 

this thread isn't "what constitutes a "real" 26b," it's more of a brain storm session, and if you had read further you would've seen my other posts. Finish reading before you post ********, and then look at the picture I posted.

 

would not be worth the cost of the build to do it. Well not to me.

 

I always wondered how thin you could go with the side plates. If the engine is Peripheral Ported, the side plates just need to contain the combustion and distribute the oil and water. Could you make a super short 4 rotor using narrow (3/4" or so) side plates? Aim for the length of a 20B or so. E-shaft could be just like the other kits out there, keyed on eccentrics.

Oil-wise, you don't need a ton of passages, just supply oil to the e-shaft bearings and evacuate the oil from the rotors. Run a stock car external dry sump system, pulling the oil from a return passage that wouldn't require an oil pan and scavenge tubes.

Coolant-wise, I haven't cut apart a side plate to see how thick the metal is or how they are internally ported so I can't say.

I just wondered about this one day.

-Trent

 

I will try...
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/tegheim-home-made-4-rotor-wolvo-project-892879/

 

i have had this idea as well!
the idea is you could make a pp 4 rotor about 16 inches long!

one day

 

i'm going to correct myself.

it would be more like 17 or 18 inches at the shortest.

thats still almost the length of a 13b, and shorter than a 20b.. so damn..

 

is it possible to contact mazda or a mazda engineer and have them send us specs on the 4rotor from the 787b? lol

 

This is one of those projects thats always on the back burner for me. Every couple of weeks I think about it a bit more and sometimes work on some designs. THis season is devoted to getting the new drag chassis prepped and sorted out. Next year I may actually get around to some actual fabrication.

I figure the easiest way to do it, is similar to how granny's did it, except instead of modifying the eshafts I was going to explore building a coupler that could be bolted in place of the flywheel of the front engine and bolted in place of the crank pulley of the rear engine.

 

This is one idea I've had for the coupler. It's based on the coupler system used inside an eaton super charger. The middle section would be made out of delrin or uhwm-pe. This would help absorb vibrations between the two engines.

 

I have cut a middle-plate apart long time ago.

 

Almost done with my own 26B E-shaft