Tii LSD vs. NA LSD
#26
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
wheel hop is more in the tires than anything else, but chances are you wont completely get rid of it. its a drawback to independant suspension.
but every little bit helps. the purpose of the snubber is to prevent broken mounts/subframe. if wheel hop is reduced, bonus
and yes thats the right part. once you look at the body undere the storage bins its obvious where it goes.
but every little bit helps. the purpose of the snubber is to prevent broken mounts/subframe. if wheel hop is reduced, bonus
and yes thats the right part. once you look at the body undere the storage bins its obvious where it goes.
#27
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The pinion snubber makes a huge difference.
I couldn't find the help part listed in the previous post locally and ended up using an energy suspension plastic bump stop, thats in constant contact with the pinion in the appropriate spot.
I also have solid rear diff mounts, and the mazda comp front diff mount. Even if I launch such that I am trying to cause wheel hop I still get virtually none.
The other Item I think that helps is a rear strut tower bar, before the strut tower bar on poorly executed launches I would get a loud bang (like the hammer of thor was hitting the car) I think from the diff (or the entire sub frame) coming down some then bouncing off the pinion snubber. Since installing the strut bar that hasn't happened.
I have a 13b-REW and I broke a NA diff on drag radials with well under 300 WHP/WTQ so with any V8 you are guaranteed to break the diff.
I can dump the clutch at 5K on street tires and all I get is tire spin.
If your going to drag race, ET streets aren't near as hard on drivline parts as either full slicks or drag radials.
I couldn't find the help part listed in the previous post locally and ended up using an energy suspension plastic bump stop, thats in constant contact with the pinion in the appropriate spot.
I also have solid rear diff mounts, and the mazda comp front diff mount. Even if I launch such that I am trying to cause wheel hop I still get virtually none.
The other Item I think that helps is a rear strut tower bar, before the strut tower bar on poorly executed launches I would get a loud bang (like the hammer of thor was hitting the car) I think from the diff (or the entire sub frame) coming down some then bouncing off the pinion snubber. Since installing the strut bar that hasn't happened.
I have a 13b-REW and I broke a NA diff on drag radials with well under 300 WHP/WTQ so with any V8 you are guaranteed to break the diff.
I can dump the clutch at 5K on street tires and all I get is tire spin.
If your going to drag race, ET streets aren't near as hard on drivline parts as either full slicks or drag radials.
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