Dr. Frankenstein is in!

I purchased a 3Gen in New Orleans, after the Hurricane. Yep! She didn't float well at all! ...$300
But! By my hand she will live again! So here's the plan. (BTW...she cleans up nice).

I don't know sh@t about roto's! And can't afford an LS1 Swap. My solution ...

a GM 3800 Series III
9.0:1
Rollers, Strip/Street Cam
Ported and Tuned
1.8 Rockers
60# injectors
M90 SC (Gen5)
w/ 3" pulley
Mallory 110fi pumper
backed by a T56 w/ racing clutch
and a 6 core Rad.

To my knowledge this is a bird of a diff color. I would love to try the new GM 3.4 all Alum.
HAHA Almost the same weight as a stock roto, but 320+ N/A ...mmm good!

Will keep you posted on the progress.

 

That's alot of work for 320hp.

 

hi doctor. good luck

 

your car is a biohazard. It has been soaking in **** water, you can get a deadly infection from it. I'm being serious here. The interior can literally kill you. Worst case scenario of course.

 

We've got a saying in Virginia... you can't make chicken salad from chicken ****. That body and electrical is going to be a nightmare if it's been through what I think it has.

That said, good luck and post your progress.

 

Step one in the process - dip the entire car down into a vat filled with 25 parts to 1 - water/Bleach solution for a good sanitation effort.

good luck

 

wow man, you have no idea what you have in store for you. you are going to have to take the body to bare metal and have that thing sand blasted to get everything off. then comes all the rust removal. once all the rust is cut away, then comes all the por-15. once that is done, then you paint it. then put it all back together. this is going to take months and way beyond your budget if you cannot afford an LS1 swap.

 

if they scare you off, let me know. im sure i have someone who will give you more than what you paid.

 

Its not that bad, You will have to pull every connector clean an greased, electric coponets are iffy, carpet and seats will need to be replaced, as will any other porous material in the interior.

 

Look at this way, it won't be too difficuilt finding you....just follow the smell!

 

Can you say race car......

 

I'll bet the interior is trash, Strip everthing off and prep and us etching primer on the inside of the doors and fenders ect, ect. let me know what you are going to do with the drive train componets that you aren't planning on using. Aluminum door handles for sale. chiptosser@verizon.net

 

First of All I am an Environmental Scientist, I was working the Hurricanes with the EPA, LDEQ and FEMA. I am more qualified to handle this project than most.
FYI I have my own Scotts SCBA!

Secondly, the car took on water during the middle of a Resto, so most critical systems had already been removed.

Also, I have already disassembled the car inside and out. The only harness left attached, was the rear taillight section. Which did show some residual corrosion from salty air. Which speed up the disimilar-metal effect. It was replaced over a year ago.

BTW the car was purchased, in 05. So I have had more than enuff quality time to research and prepare.

There is no Rust anywhere. Thanks to the Anti-corrosion treatment most new imports receive at the factory prior to painting.

Finally, The estimated output of this set up @ 14 psi SC boost is 520 rwhp, not 320. The Cadillac CTS uses the new 3.4 All Alum Block and I have heard figs from 320hp to 400, depending on the application. The same unit is used with Cad, Buick and GM (Acadia, G6, etc.)

Due to the availabilty of this n/a powerhouse and reliabilty, it is a plus all the way around. More power to weight ratio! Not tomention the flexability.

Just imagine GNX power in a 2600# car. (and yes it has been lightened - Seats, etc). And all that and maintaining driveability.

YEPPERS, I'll be driving to time trials in ENNIS. On Pump Gasssssss

 

PS. As to any possible "Katrina Funk", anyone with a basic understanding and a little creative chemistry can effectively and safely remidiate any hazards.

Tomorrow I will take pics for all the haters.

BTW - not my first Rodeo. I just wondered about the responses I'd get. And to offer a more driver friendly swap into the hat!


(not bad for a Geek) oh and the 47 is a sinker too!...on a s10 boxed frame.

 

Sounds like a good build.

 

Misprint - the ALL Aluminum V6 is the 3.6 DOHC vvt, DI 60 degree, and other versions of this. 3.2,3.4 yadda yadda

 

goodluck!

 

So what V6 are you going to end up using... you mention a few up there?

Just asking as I've tried the Series2 as was available in the last F-bodies and intake manifold doesn't suit it being in a tight engine bay. If fit fine but with no room for a rad... it's about the length of a straight six because of the mani'.

Also you came here seemingly to stir up something... why? With your original idea of using a series3 3800 I'll tell you from experience it's a "not so good" idea... as they never fitted a S3 engine in a RWD car. Yes you can swap most parts, but you'll still end up with the same S2 mani' for the RWD 3800.

We don't come in your house flinging poo, don't come to ours doing it please.

Now the newer V6's... if that's what you now are planning... please do kindly keep us up dated.

 

i think some posted pics are in order. thank god no one invented the smellevision yet

 

a "Scientist" who cant afford an ls1?

Goodluck!!

 

This is a bit of a mock up, for the 3.6 Though hard to find.
This is a test rig to see if it is capable of being a fun, economical and dependable swap.

I don't know squat about this car. It fell in my lap. I intend to go thru with this as an experiment. But as I said. I do not know this car. YOU GUYS do! So tell me what problems I may run into.

BTW R/P, your neighbors here started throwing poo by assuming i don't know poo.

So you guys gonna help, or should I suit up?

 

I am into recycling

ok took some pics with my cell, think my son has the digicam in a toybox somewhere.

 

You shouldn't have any trouble fitting the 3.8 into the engine bay of an FD. My daily driver FC is powered by a 3.8/T5 combo. The supercharger is another question though, because of the FWD layout of the supercharged 3.8s the throttle body sits above the transmission bellhousing. In a RWD layout, that would put the TB somewhere around the radio. There is some talk of using a Holden's supercharger and manifold as they are RWD, but I don't know of anyone that has made it happen yet.





Good luck with the swap and keep us updated!

 

One Dead Sexy Rig!!!

Q&A: Who makes the best body kits for the FD's?

Talking with a buddy about this build. I know RX7er's are DIEhards, but I had an Epiphany!
Mazda's aren't even Mazda's!!!
A Japanese car, with a German Engine and owned by Ford!!
It's a MazDord! JK JK JK

Well, I have two engines now. A Series II, and III SC. While the III is out gettin her nails done. I am using the II block for my Mock up and Motor mount.

I also drove to Houston and bought a T5 from a Wyotech kid. He had rebuilt the Camaro T with the Stang GT gears for the stronger composition.

So here is my list:

Series III - 175
Series II - 160
T5 - 69
T5 V6Bell - 25
M90 - 41
M62 Plly - 2
Current - 472

Not bad for a Junkyard build.

HOWEVER. There is an important issue at hand. The SC Throttle body clearance.
Have been mulling on this over and over. Holden does use a 90 tube behind theirs, but their SC also has a bit of a twist. Have a few ideas, but won't know until the mock up.

PS. A neighbor down the road heard about the car and donated a stock shifter he had laying around. (incl some Microfische)!

 

What a piece of CRAP! Wanna double your money? Please visit V8RX7forum.com you might find it a little bit friendlier there. Good Luck with the narrow minds around here. My brother lived in NO, lots of his stuff cleaned up just fine.