RB25 powered FD Build!
it was done and it ran awesome, it was extremely fast and handled amazingly close to stock then the turbo blew, im putting the new one on tomorrow and it will be back on the streets
well thank you, it is along way from finished though, i mean i can drive it around and everything, but still have a lot I want to change and clean up....
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
like i said its not done yet once again, you cant judge it without seeing it in real life either, its getting a different subframe, poly bushings for motor mount, a lot more support for diff and tranny mount, all welds getting cleaned up, you guys get all freaked out and its not even complete, i realize it likes ghetto right now, but wait untill im done before you judge please.....no need for people to tell me to die.....come on are you 10 lets be a little more mature...................
So why would you do everything twice? Instead of taking your time, thinking it out and then proceeding with a good plan....
I' not ripping on you. A solid plan makes everything come out better.
that looks good man, the reason everything has to be done twice is because I had a guy do most of it for cheap and you get what you pay for. The guy that was making the subframe for me backed out. Do you have the original subframe and steering rack all bolted in the stock location? I am very interested please let me know.
hey send me as much pics as you have man, i really need an idea for tranny mount and exhaust, I would really appreciate it.....yay im not the only one dumb enough to do this swap! I have so many questions for you lol
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...diff_brace.jpg
It has about a foot less leverage that mine does on the diff and it holds just fine. The only reason its held on the sides of the diff is to have a place to mount it, there are no other close bolt holes to bolt it to, so its made like that.
It holds up and down tq of the diff only, not side to side. It will not break. It has enough leverage to hold that. Look at your original PPF. Look at this diff brace here...
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...diff_brace.jpg
It has about a foot less leverage that mine does on the diff and it holds just fine. The only reason its held on the sides of the diff is to have a place to mount it, there are no other close bolt holes to bolt it to, so its made like that.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...diff_brace.jpg
It has about a foot less leverage that mine does on the diff and it holds just fine. The only reason its held on the sides of the diff is to have a place to mount it, there are no other close bolt holes to bolt it to, so its made like that.
its been a long time since I have updated this, right now I have decided to fit the engine with the stock subframe in the stock position. I have not decided yet wether to knock in the firewall or buy a $1000 hood. I have also purchased fixed headlights so I have room for a fmic thats going on. Pics as soon as I get new mounts done.....
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
If you make 300lb-ft of torque at the engine, it goes through a 4:1 torque multiplication in the gearbox in 1st gear, meaning roughly 1,200lb-ft coming down the driveshaft....
Then you have a 4.1 rear end, making it 4,920lb-ft coming out of the diff. Obviously on street tires you can never really harness that kind of torque, but even at 50% of that, you need a brace capable of supporting 2400lbs @ 12inches forward of the rear axles. The diff will will try to rotate the nose UPWARD on throttle so that's the main concern here.
From what it looks like, your brace bolts to the body about 10inches forward of the axles, meaning your brace will see loads up to nearly 3,000 pounds of instantaneous force. Prolly double if you ever run slicks.
Material looks like 1-1/4 chromoly, which is strong as hell but with an open span of about 20inches it looks like, it will bend upward in the middle, putting a sheer load on the outer bolts.
If you add braces from the sides upwards toward the upper 2 bolts, then it won't bend but the best is to make the lever arm longer. The PPF just stops the diff from rotating up and down.
The longitudinal axis torque on the diff is not huge and is handled by the bushings on the rear of the case. Torque on the lateral axis is the main concern, just look how long the PPF was...... but it also supports the trans the opposite direction...
Anyway geek talk is over for today...
thanks for the pics you sent me ElysianD, I have decided that Im making mounts off of the subframe, I have to be carefull on the drivers side though where the steering shaft comes down. I decided not to make them off of the frame rails because they are thin sheet metal and will eventually start pulling in the shock towers, hence the reason for most of the ls and 2j swaps to have them off the subframe.
The oil pan will be done this weekend.
The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.
The oil pan will be done this weekend.
The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.
Prolly not strong enough either....
If you make 300lb-ft of torque at the engine, it goes through a 4:1 torque multiplication in the gearbox in 1st gear, meaning roughly 1,200lb-ft coming down the driveshaft....
Then you have a 4.1 rear end, making it 4,920lb-ft coming out of the diff. Obviously on street tires you can never really harness that kind of torque, but even at 50% of that, you need a brace capable of supporting 2400lbs @ 12inches forward of the rear axles. The diff will will try to rotate the nose UPWARD on throttle so that's the main concern here.
From what it looks like, your brace bolts to the body about 10inches forward of the axles, meaning your brace will see loads up to nearly 3,000 pounds of instantaneous force. Prolly double if you ever run slicks.
Material looks like 1-1/4 chromoly, which is strong as hell but with an open span of about 20inches it looks like, it will bend upward in the middle, putting a sheer load on the outer bolts.
If you add braces from the sides upwards toward the upper 2 bolts, then it won't bend but the best is to make the lever arm longer. The PPF just stops the diff from rotating up and down.
The longitudinal axis torque on the diff is not huge and is handled by the bushings on the rear of the case. Torque on the lateral axis is the main concern, just look how long the PPF was...... but it also supports the trans the opposite direction...
Anyway geek talk is over for today...
If you make 300lb-ft of torque at the engine, it goes through a 4:1 torque multiplication in the gearbox in 1st gear, meaning roughly 1,200lb-ft coming down the driveshaft....
Then you have a 4.1 rear end, making it 4,920lb-ft coming out of the diff. Obviously on street tires you can never really harness that kind of torque, but even at 50% of that, you need a brace capable of supporting 2400lbs @ 12inches forward of the rear axles. The diff will will try to rotate the nose UPWARD on throttle so that's the main concern here.
From what it looks like, your brace bolts to the body about 10inches forward of the axles, meaning your brace will see loads up to nearly 3,000 pounds of instantaneous force. Prolly double if you ever run slicks.
Material looks like 1-1/4 chromoly, which is strong as hell but with an open span of about 20inches it looks like, it will bend upward in the middle, putting a sheer load on the outer bolts.
If you add braces from the sides upwards toward the upper 2 bolts, then it won't bend but the best is to make the lever arm longer. The PPF just stops the diff from rotating up and down.
The longitudinal axis torque on the diff is not huge and is handled by the bushings on the rear of the case. Torque on the lateral axis is the main concern, just look how long the PPF was...... but it also supports the trans the opposite direction...
Anyway geek talk is over for today...
i make 606whp and just over 400ftlbs tq. it hasnt had any problems as of yet. but it also hasnt seen slicks.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
thanks for the pics you sent me ElysianD, I have decided that Im making mounts off of the subframe, I have to be carefull on the drivers side though where the steering shaft comes down. I decided not to make them off of the frame rails because they are thin sheet metal and will eventually start pulling in the shock towers, hence the reason for most of the ls and 2j swaps to have them off the subframe.
The oil pan will be done this weekend.
The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.
The oil pan will be done this weekend.
The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.
I built the frame rail mounts from 1/8 mild steel on a 4x4inch plate to distribute load, so there is a total of 16inches of weld holding the mounts to the frame rails. The frame rail sheetmetal isn't really thin anyway. I would say almost 2mm or maybe 14ga...
