RB25 powered FD Build!
12-28-08, 01:21 PM
#101
RB Power!
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yea i just don't appreciate people telling me to "die", but I will post a vid maybe this week, i didn't do ls1 because Im dumb and like to make things difficult
12-28-08, 01:41 PM
#104
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yea im not sure how much i will make right now, its stock besides the greddy intake mani, q45 throttle body, straight 3in exhaust, and water cooled intercooler setup.......if i turned the boost up it might make a little over 300 i would guess
12-31-08, 12:36 AM
#106
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well i got to ride in the car today....holy ****...............
this is what happens when you have way to much torque
i already made a new diff support with 2in think steal so the floor will rip out before that thing breaks...
here is a pic of the redesigned spacers
here is a video of it running, it sounds way better in person, its the coolest sounding car i think i have ever heard
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN0021.flv
this is what happens when you have way to much torque
i already made a new diff support with 2in think steal so the floor will rip out before that thing breaks...
here is a pic of the redesigned spacers
here is a video of it running, it sounds way better in person, its the coolest sounding car i think i have ever heard
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN0021.flv
12-31-08, 12:40 PM
#108
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i told you on page 1 or 2 that your bracing looked far to weak. trust me you didnt make to much tq. you just didnt build a strong brace. did you think i was just playing?
well i got to ride in the car today....holy ****...............
this is what happens when you have way to much torque
i already made a new diff support with 2in think steal so the floor will rip out before that thing breaks...
here is a pic of the redesigned spacers
here is a video of it running, it sounds way better in person, its the coolest sounding car i think i have ever heard
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN0021.flv
this is what happens when you have way to much torque
i already made a new diff support with 2in think steal so the floor will rip out before that thing breaks...
here is a pic of the redesigned spacers
here is a video of it running, it sounds way better in person, its the coolest sounding car i think i have ever heard
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN0021.flv
Last edited by roachdiddy; 12-31-08 at 12:42 PM.
12-31-08, 01:07 PM
#109
is that gold thing the new PPF?
and it's held in by one little bolt.
this looks to me like a couple of high schoolers that got ahold of a mig welder.
i really hope you don't try to autocross or drag race this thing, much less road race it.
edit: any pics of the new diff mount and/or new front subframe?
and it's held in by one little bolt.
this looks to me like a couple of high schoolers that got ahold of a mig welder.
i really hope you don't try to autocross or drag race this thing, much less road race it.
edit: any pics of the new diff mount and/or new front subframe?
Last edited by jacobcartmill; 12-31-08 at 01:17 PM.
12-31-08, 02:18 PM
#110
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honestly, you need to go through and redo about 70% of your welds...
Not to sound like a *** but your welds look like complete butthole. I'm suprised the engine hasn't broken the welds and dropped onto the ground yet. Take a few pieces of metal, sit in a corner, and practice welding for a few hours.
I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why you put a RB in a FD. I'm not super bias against putting piston motors in a rotary, but why something thats not even that safe? I can bet money that car is gonna overheat like a **** without some proper venting. For close to the same amount, you could have swapped to a 1jz, 2jz, LS1/2/6, even a SR if you wanted to. The only advantage that the RB has over them is that they were AWD. But you didn't include the ATTESA AWD system...
Don't get me wrong, congrats that you put a RB in a FD and got it running. You've gotten further in a few months than most of these forum members have gotten in years with their swaps. The only downside is that you cut a lot of corners. Some that should NEVER be cut...
On a good note, GREAT job on the swap. It sounds and looks great from the outside. Maybe a few videos of cruising in it?
Not to sound like a *** but your welds look like complete butthole. I'm suprised the engine hasn't broken the welds and dropped onto the ground yet. Take a few pieces of metal, sit in a corner, and practice welding for a few hours.
I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why you put a RB in a FD. I'm not super bias against putting piston motors in a rotary, but why something thats not even that safe? I can bet money that car is gonna overheat like a **** without some proper venting. For close to the same amount, you could have swapped to a 1jz, 2jz, LS1/2/6, even a SR if you wanted to. The only advantage that the RB has over them is that they were AWD. But you didn't include the ATTESA AWD system...
Don't get me wrong, congrats that you put a RB in a FD and got it running. You've gotten further in a few months than most of these forum members have gotten in years with their swaps. The only downside is that you cut a lot of corners. Some that should NEVER be cut...
On a good note, GREAT job on the swap. It sounds and looks great from the outside. Maybe a few videos of cruising in it?
12-31-08, 04:07 PM
#112
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its an rb25 it was already a single turbo, but the ceramic turbo already poped, we have put this thing through as much abuse as it ever will get, the new diff mounts is extremely strong, it is not overheating at all, i took a/c **** off and put a 12 in fan for a pusher in
12-31-08, 04:43 PM
#113
I like it, some parts do need some polishing but congrats on all your work, you've accomplished a lot. I love RBs, they sound great and are pretty stout, but if its a series one make sure you have an oil pressure gauge, their oil pumps like to go at random times. Congrats again
12-31-08, 06:15 PM
#114
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honestly, you need to go through and redo about 70% of your welds...
Not to sound like a *** but your welds look like complete butthole. I'm suprised the engine hasn't broken the welds and dropped onto the ground yet. Take a few pieces of metal, sit in a corner, and practice welding for a few hours.
I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why you put a RB in a FD. I'm not super bias against putting piston motors in a rotary, but why something thats not even that safe? I can bet money that car is gonna overheat like a **** without some proper venting. For close to the same amount, you could have swapped to a 1jz, 2jz, LS1/2/6, even a SR if you wanted to. The only advantage that the RB has over them is that they were AWD. But you didn't include the ATTESA AWD system...
Don't get me wrong, congrats that you put a RB in a FD and got it running. You've gotten further in a few months than most of these forum members have gotten in years with their swaps. The only downside is that you cut a lot of corners. Some that should NEVER be cut...
On a good note, GREAT job on the swap. It sounds and looks great from the outside. Maybe a few videos of cruising in it?
Not to sound like a *** but your welds look like complete butthole. I'm suprised the engine hasn't broken the welds and dropped onto the ground yet. Take a few pieces of metal, sit in a corner, and practice welding for a few hours.
I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why you put a RB in a FD. I'm not super bias against putting piston motors in a rotary, but why something thats not even that safe? I can bet money that car is gonna overheat like a **** without some proper venting. For close to the same amount, you could have swapped to a 1jz, 2jz, LS1/2/6, even a SR if you wanted to. The only advantage that the RB has over them is that they were AWD. But you didn't include the ATTESA AWD system...
Don't get me wrong, congrats that you put a RB in a FD and got it running. You've gotten further in a few months than most of these forum members have gotten in years with their swaps. The only downside is that you cut a lot of corners. Some that should NEVER be cut...
On a good note, GREAT job on the swap. It sounds and looks great from the outside. Maybe a few videos of cruising in it?
Can't wait to see the finished project as I'm sure the car's going to be awesome in it's own way.
01-01-09, 08:50 AM
#117
Wangan Nasty
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If you don't have cash, keep it stock or put another lower mileage stocker on it.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=188763
^ Here it is. Find out if it's still for sale.
I forget what trim the OEM RB25DET Turbo is, but if it's a T28, then the S15 Inconel Wheel T28 is an upgrade and so is the RB26DETT N1 Turbocharger (single one).
01-01-09, 10:41 AM
#118
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HKS GT2530, GT2535, GT-RS, GT-SS. All will need bigger injectors, and engine management. There was an HKS one for sale on freshalloy for 750~ bucks. They are all "sport" upgrade so it may use the stock manifold (on the 26 they do).
If you don't have cash, keep it stock or put another lower mileage stocker on it.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=188763
^ Here it is. Find out if it's still for sale.
I forget what trim the OEM RB25DET Turbo is, but if it's a T28, then the S15 Inconel Wheel T28 is an upgrade and so is the RB26DETT N1 Turbocharger (single one).
If you don't have cash, keep it stock or put another lower mileage stocker on it.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=188763
^ Here it is. Find out if it's still for sale.
I forget what trim the OEM RB25DET Turbo is, but if it's a T28, then the S15 Inconel Wheel T28 is an upgrade and so is the RB26DETT N1 Turbocharger (single one).
01-01-09, 10:55 AM
#119
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It's basically a GT2535 that was for sale for 700 bucks shipped. Which is a bolt on upgrade. I can PM the guy and find out for you if it's still for sale.
It should be good for around 350-400 whp.
OR.
You can find out if a N1 Turbo will fit on an RB25DET.
The N1 turbo is the steel wheeled replacement for the stock turbos on an RB26DETT that was used for motorsports.
But if you want to make power, the stock 370CC injectors are only good for so much (think 1 hp per CC). And once you do upgrade, you at least need a ROM Tune at the minimum for the octane of gas you have there (91 or 93). ROM Tune beats the **** out of running a crappy piggyback anyday of the week.
It should be good for around 350-400 whp.
OR.
You can find out if a N1 Turbo will fit on an RB25DET.
The N1 turbo is the steel wheeled replacement for the stock turbos on an RB26DETT that was used for motorsports.
But if you want to make power, the stock 370CC injectors are only good for so much (think 1 hp per CC). And once you do upgrade, you at least need a ROM Tune at the minimum for the octane of gas you have there (91 or 93). ROM Tune beats the **** out of running a crappy piggyback anyday of the week.
01-01-09, 05:33 PM
#120
RB Power!
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im not looking to spend that much, there is a local guy that has a brand new super T70 T4 flanged turbo for cheap, or these any good? i am not good with turbo's I always keep them stock..
01-01-09, 05:55 PM
#121
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Why don't you just keep the turbo stock for now? Get use to the power the stock t3 puts out and get the rest of the car finished, then focus on power later. Odds are your suspension and brakes are not going to be up to par for the power you're aiming for.
01-01-09, 06:11 PM
#122
RB Power!
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the turbo is blown, i need something to get me by right now, i have been talking to other people and they said that i should be safe with a gt2530 on the stock computer.
01-01-09, 06:43 PM
#123
Wangan Nasty
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"Super T70" or "T3/T4" on the turbo usually means chinese made **** Turbo = better as a paperweight if you value the engine and your money and time. You are better off with a stock replacement or a used turbo. Cheap =/= quality.
GT2530 or 2535 is great for the RB25. Stock computer is ok as long as you do ROM Tuning.
GT2530 or 2535 is great for the RB25. Stock computer is ok as long as you do ROM Tuning.
01-01-09, 07:05 PM
#124
Holy crap those welds look like ****, did you use rebar to build that diff brace? And is that little piece held on with a bolt supposed to be a torque arm or something?
Hockey pucks for engine mounts? WTF. Your sway bar/subframe spacers are equally scary. That car is dangerous to drive, it will never align properly, and the engine will likely end up falling on to the sub frame with the way that mount is braced. It reminds me of the 1jz swap with wood spacers lol
Hockey pucks for engine mounts? WTF. Your sway bar/subframe spacers are equally scary. That car is dangerous to drive, it will never align properly, and the engine will likely end up falling on to the sub frame with the way that mount is braced. It reminds me of the 1jz swap with wood spacers lol
01-01-09, 09:02 PM
#125
RB Power!
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Holy crap those welds look like ****, did you use rebar to build that diff brace? And is that little piece held on with a bolt supposed to be a torque arm or something?
Hockey pucks for engine mounts? WTF. Your sway bar/subframe spacers are equally scary. That car is dangerous to drive, it will never align properly, and the engine will likely end up falling on to the sub frame with the way that mount is braced. It reminds me of the 1jz swap with wood spacers lol
Hockey pucks for engine mounts? WTF. Your sway bar/subframe spacers are equally scary. That car is dangerous to drive, it will never align properly, and the engine will likely end up falling on to the sub frame with the way that mount is braced. It reminds me of the 1jz swap with wood spacers lol