So is it all completley done? Hows it run?

it was done and it ran awesome, it was extremely fast and handled amazingly close to stock then the turbo blew, im putting the new one on tomorrow and it will be back on the streets

Sounds good man! Post some more pics! And some videos of it running would be awesome ;)

Good job on your swap, most people don't have a clue on how to begin something like this. you started and finished your project :icon_tup:

well thank you, it is along way from finished though, i mean i can drive it around and everything, but still have a lot I want to change and clean up....

So why would you do everything twice? Instead of taking your time, thinking it out and then proceeding with a good plan....

I' not ripping on you. A solid plan makes everything come out better.

I just did a swap for a guy on this forum and here is how we did a few things:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08506sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08533sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08536sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08539sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08540sm.jpg

that looks good man, the reason everything has to be done twice is because I had a guy do most of it for cheap and you get what you pay for. The guy that was making the subframe for me backed out. Do you have the original subframe and steering rack all bolted in the stock location? I am very interested please let me know.

hey send me as much pics as you have man, i really need an idea for tranny mount and exhaust, I would really appreciate it.....yay im not the only one dumb enough to do this swap! I have so many questions for you lol

^^ the pics above are of my car that ElysianD did. Idk what the fuck you were thinking hacking up your shit like you did.

That angle iron wont do anything but break FINN and ElysianD. Why not just buy one of the diff braces currently available?

post more pics up FlyinFINN.

It holds up and down tq of the diff only, not side to side. It will not break. It has enough leverage to hold that. Look at your original PPF. Look at this diff brace here...
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...diff_brace.jpg
It has about a foot less leverage that mine does on the diff and it holds just fine. The only reason its held on the sides of the diff is to have a place to mount it, there are no other close bolt holes to bolt it to, so its made like that.

why you ignoring me flyinfinn?

He left for basic training 2 days ago, and I've been out of town. Should have an update on the car next week.

Ill just make a new thread for the car.

ok sounds good

i made mine so there was no way in hell it would bend, or bust. there was another brace attached from the cross bar to the top 2 mounting points of the diff. just dont have a pic of that
Attachment 706363

its been a long time since I have updated this, right now I have decided to fit the engine with the stock subframe in the stock position. I have not decided yet wether to knock in the firewall or buy a $1000 hood. I have also purchased fixed headlights so I have room for a fmic thats going on. Pics as soon as I get new mounts done.....

Prolly not strong enough either....

If you make 300lb-ft of torque at the engine, it goes through a 4:1 torque multiplication in the gearbox in 1st gear, meaning roughly 1,200lb-ft coming down the driveshaft....

Then you have a 4.1 rear end, making it 4,920lb-ft coming out of the diff. Obviously on street tires you can never really harness that kind of torque, but even at 50% of that, you need a brace capable of supporting 2400lbs @ 12inches forward of the rear axles. The diff will will try to rotate the nose UPWARD on throttle so that's the main concern here.

From what it looks like, your brace bolts to the body about 10inches forward of the axles, meaning your brace will see loads up to nearly 3,000 pounds of instantaneous force. Prolly double if you ever run slicks.

Material looks like 1-1/4 chromoly, which is strong as hell but with an open span of about 20inches it looks like, it will bend upward in the middle, putting a sheer load on the outer bolts.

If you add braces from the sides upwards toward the upper 2 bolts, then it won't bend but the best is to make the lever arm longer. The PPF just stops the diff from rotating up and down.

The longitudinal axis torque on the diff is not huge and is handled by the bushings on the rear of the case. Torque on the lateral axis is the main concern, just look how long the PPF was...... but it also supports the trans the opposite direction...

Anyway geek talk is over for today... :)

Nice build man.
love the motor and the car.

thanks for the pics you sent me ElysianD, I have decided that Im making mounts off of the subframe, I have to be carefull on the drivers side though where the steering shaft comes down. I decided not to make them off of the frame rails because they are thin sheet metal and will eventually start pulling in the shock towers, hence the reason for most of the ls and 2j swaps to have them off the subframe.

The oil pan will be done this weekend.

The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.

i make 606whp and just over 400ftlbs tq. it hasnt had any problems as of yet. but it also hasnt seen slicks.

There really isn't any way to effectively build a driver's side mount on the subframe without using a lot of space and probably blocking in the steering rack.

I built the frame rail mounts from 1/8 mild steel on a 4x4inch plate to distribute load, so there is a total of 16inches of weld holding the mounts to the frame rails. The frame rail sheetmetal isn't really thin anyway. I would say almost 2mm or maybe 14ga...

I will be in back in STL on March 14-23. This thing better be running and we need to have our Mazda cruise...