yes it pulls extremely hard, I probably should get a stronger rear end. The first diff mount I had ripped right in half.

Looking forward to seeing some updates.. I presume if you had a chassis side loom from a donor skyline you could cut and splice the guage wiring for the FD into it to get it to work that way? How much is the wiring adapter going to set you back? I believe on the engine side the electrics are all a self contained loom. Was there anything you had to cut and shut into the ECU wiring so far? I am guessing the ignition/starter goes through that somewhere along the line and needing joining in?

Cheers
Lee

Yea that might work. I think Im going to end up getting all autometer gauges that fit in the factory gauge spots.

The wiring was pretty easy I just spliced the skyline harness to the rx7s using pinouts.

I plan on getting rid of all the wires in the car and completely customizing it with new relays,fuses and everything.

yes, ignition wires are spliced in to each other

Cool. Any wiring pics you could pop up would be good?
That would be nice to rip all the old crap out and start fresh! At least you know where you are then!

Not really. The engine doesn't make that much tq or hp. Your going to need to upgrade quite a few things to "pull hard".

Your rear end broke cause you made that abomination of a diff mount with no knowledge of how your rear end works AT ALL. Stock FD rear end will hold more than enough for what you have, the problem is your engineering.

No, your Rotary tach is on a different pulse pattern than the i6. No amount of spicing will make it work. You need to get a box that can change pulse width or just get another gauge.

lol, we must have different ideas of pulling hard and what's a lot of torque. Im building a drift car and it has plenty of what I need.

I had a dumbass make all my old mounts and I knew it was a piece as soon as I seen it. It has all been corrected

I know very well how a differential works, there is no need to get so personal without knowing anything about me or the car. If you have a problem make a suggestion instead of an insult.

I second that.. No need to get personal. if you don't like the project get out the thread!
Thanks for the info on the tach though I presume you mean rev counter? assuming that runs of the crank sensors I can see how that might cause an issue.. So you need to fit a skyline rev counter then?! Or are such adapters an off the shelf thing?

Lee

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nice build man.

How does what I said have anything to do with liking or disliking the thread? It has to do with him saying he needs a new rear end cause his "diff mount broke". Blaming Mazda engineers for not making a stronger rear end because your diff mount, that you said you had a dumbass make but you know how a diff works but you still put it on and tried it (which from one look anyone can see rebar diff mount bent into the shape of baloon animals and mounted all the COMPLETLEY wrong way, is a failure), makes no sense. You already copied my oil pan to a T, might as well copy everything else on my car including the diff mount, since it all had real thought put into it.

ill have pics of all the new mounts and everything when they get back from powdercoat.
I didn't say I needed a new rear end because the mount broke. The mount was on the car when I picked it up. I want a new diff because Ill eventually be pushing 400whp with my new turbo setup.


Yep, lol I copied your oil pan. Have you ever thought that since we have the same engine in our car, the way you have to cut the oil pan might turn out to look similar hmmm.....Im sure the old dirt track guy I sent the car to to make that oil pan came on the internet and stole your ideas...

FlyingFinn -
Reason is reading your posts sounds like you are coming all over with an attitude about the guy's build.. So what if it was all messed up first time.. I seem to remember in his early posts he said he was going to change it all once the car was up together. Not everyone can do a job perfect first time round ro has the facilities to do it.. But if they persist and get there in the end you should be giving them encouragement and advice along the way.. Especially seeing as you have the same swap? Why get pissy if his oil pan looks the same as yours. You should be flattered that someone has been inspired by your work if they had in fact copied it.

Anyway.. This isn't the school yard.. That's all I'm saying.. Enough already!

Lee

Paintwork looks good, glad to see this car coming around.

Seems like an interestinf swap..even though i rather keep a ratary..a rotary..So i went with the 20b instead but i did give the rb25 a thought but i had no idea what i would be getting into if i had done it so good luck with the build it seems to be coming along quite well by the way nice paint..

updates?:nod:

yea, sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy with work and school.

I installed new black carpet and hooked the brakes back up with a deleted abs system.

Ill try to get pics up soon. I have been sand blasting and powdercoating the engine parts and there coming along very nice. Once I get them finished It should be smooth sailing!

here are a couple of pics of what I have been working on

my new garage
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my powdercoating setup
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getting close to getting her running again
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looks clean

more updates now!! i wish i had some more info on this swap... i just got my oil pan and oil pick up set up done etc along with all sorts of other stuff. just need to figure out this wiring.... any help?? on what i can keep in there for the fuse box's etc i started to thin some stuff out already. now its time to wire it up. ive got a 94 touring edition and rb25det series 2

Good choice of color

very nice. clean. any more updates?

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Paint looks great, that rear diff mount looks a little scary though.

Samberg Rod And Custom makes a unit that would bolt right in to replace it, and is MUCH nicer. ;)

You can find them over on norotors.com (www.norotors.com) under the vendors subforum, FYI.

yea it doesn't look the greatest, but it is very strong. Thanks for the info. If mine breaks I'll consider buying it.

Swap was looking very hairy there in the beginning, but its actually looking pretty decent now. Very good decision having all that shitty work redone. The subframe looks much better, tho in those last pics you posted it looks like the oil pan is going to contact the subframe on the passenger side... hopefully the motor wont torque enough to make contact. Nice job with all the work and time you have put into it so far tho. I'm looking forward to seeing pics/video when you get it up and running again. Also, congrats on the new garage!

Shits weak!

Looks nice. Let me know when you sell it after all the work? j/k...:gwink:

lol thanks for the comments guys, the oil pan will not contact the subframe the engine doesn't budge when you torque it.

there is no way I can sell this thing with all the money I have invested in it.

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Very nice project. Good luck with everything.

That diff brace is unbrearable. What prevented you from cutting those bars in a logical or structural fashion? Did you make it out of scrap?

Those welds(all of them) look absolutely awful. More is not better when it comes to welding. The mating surfaces should be as close as possible to one another. Turn the heat up and the wire speed down.

You need to hire someone to fabricate and weld these structural pieces for you. I am not kidding.

I agree with Barban....... that rear diff mount should make it's way to the nearest dumpster.

i didn't do any welding on the car. The diff mount is fine as well as everything else

The diff mount is NOT fine. From what I can see from the pictures, the spray paint is just hiding more pin holes. Pin holes means less integrity.

People here are trying to help you by letting you know whoever is doing your welding clearly isn't doing a good job. If your paying this person, your wasting money on something that is going to eventually break. If you plan on building this car for higher power, having things done correctly the first time works very well.

You'll be kicking yourself when that brace snaps and you break a u-joint on the drive shaft.

Paying the extra money in the beginning saves you a lot in the end.

It's like buying a bunch of junkyard motors and having them blow up over and over again instead of building a motor once and having it last long.

Not even close to "fine"

+1
I dont see one decent weld on any of the fabrication.

lol

yup, welds look scary...and the torque will definitely annihilate that diff mount during the first serious drive...unless your doing an NA build :rofl:

I have already drove hard with this rear diff mount. Im not worried about it

o and by the way a nut got lodged in my timing gear causing the engine to jump time and all of my valves to break in half on start up the other day! I have it all torn back apart again and Im on the hunt for a new head or long block.

now that blows...hopefully shes up and running again soon

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those welds are worse than a first timer honestly. i would wouldn't even touch them. i would drag them to the road by a rope.

i have to say most people on here are helpfull but some just cant resist bashing others -it takes time+a lot of practice to get good at the many skills a person needs to build one off -custom cars on their own . i have plenty of respect for anyone that builds as much as they can +as best as they can .good job guy

as far as the welds go --yes i would have to agree that they look on the far side of dangerous ---and im not tryin to bash ---be carefull---a super thick cold weld will break right now (no penetration )---practice on scrap ---- fire your welder first-and honestly any car i build ----i do all the welding --not because i think im ron fournier but because i know every bead i lay down is mine ---what i mean is that its for my saftey that i know what im doing before its too late and i get hurt of hurt someone else.----best advise i can give you is to practice and to get a book called "metal fabricators hand book" by ron founier----and practice practice practice----and again the car looks good just be safe

lol you guys are still talking about that rear diff mount, thats the only part of the car that he messed with, im going to eventually buy one of the mounts that comes with the ls swaps.

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Roll-cage material. That's how you do it. :P