yea i just don't appreciate people telling me to "die", but I will post a vid maybe this week, i didn't do ls1 because Im dumb and like to make things difficult

^ LOL... Well good luck with the rest of the build, i hope it turns out the way u like.

you know what i like it. my friend has an r33 and its almost to easy to get 450+hp out of those things.

yea im not sure how much i will make right now, its stock besides the greddy intake mani, q45 throttle body, straight 3in exhaust, and water cooled intercooler setup.......if i turned the boost up it might make a little over 300 i would guess

should make more than 300 with those bolt ons and the boost turned up. my stock 98 tt supra made 292 at the wheels on stock boost.

well i got to ride in the car today....holy fuck...............

this is what happens when you have way to much torque Attachment 706361
i already made a new diff support with 2in think steal so the floor will rip out before that thing breaks...

here is a pic of the redesigned spacers
Attachment 706362

here is a video of it running, it sounds way better in person, its the coolest sounding car i think i have ever heard
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...t=DSCN0021.flv

Definitely sounds better than the 13b it's replacing. Looking forward to more updates.

I don't know how you can have too much torque though....

i told you on page 1 or 2 that your bracing looked far to weak. trust me you didnt make to much tq. you just didnt build a strong brace. did you think i was just playing?

is that gold thing the new PPF?

and it's held in by one little bolt.

this looks to me like a couple of high schoolers that got ahold of a mig welder.

i really hope you don't try to autocross or drag race this thing, much less road race it.

edit: any pics of the new diff mount and/or new front subframe?

honestly, you need to go through and redo about 70% of your welds...

Not to sound like a ass but your welds look like complete butthole. I'm suprised the engine hasn't broken the welds and dropped onto the ground yet. Take a few pieces of metal, sit in a corner, and practice welding for a few hours.

I'm sorry, but I just don't understand why you put a RB in a FD. I'm not super bias against putting piston motors in a rotary, but why something thats not even that safe? I can bet money that car is gonna overheat like a mofo without some proper venting. For close to the same amount, you could have swapped to a 1jz, 2jz, LS1/2/6, even a SR if you wanted to. The only advantage that the RB has over them is that they were AWD. But you didn't include the ATTESA AWD system...


Don't get me wrong, congrats that you put a RB in a FD and got it running. You've gotten further in a few months than most of these forum members have gotten in years with their swaps. The only downside is that you cut a lot of corners. Some that should NEVER be cut...

On a good note, GREAT job on the swap. It sounds and looks great from the outside. Maybe a few videos of cruising in it?

Don't saying bad about this project. you beh haytin' if you do.

When is the single turbo going to be slapped on? Gotta shoot for 550 whp...

its an rb25 it was already a single turbo, but the ceramic turbo already poped, we have put this thing through as much abuse as it ever will get, the new diff mounts is extremely strong, it is not overheating at all, i took a/c shit off and put a 12 in fan for a pusher in

I like it, some parts do need some polishing but congrats on all your work, you've accomplished a lot. I love RBs, they sound great and are pretty stout, but if its a series one make sure you have an oil pressure gauge, their oil pumps like to go at random times. Congrats again

Hopefully he goes back through and gets right what corners he was cutting. At least he is attempting to do this on his own, rather than just sending it off to a shop with a blank check. We all have to learn somewhere. So props to him on that. My FD is a decade long project the way it's looking, so he's gotten considerably further than I have in the 2 1/2 years I've owned my FD. So props are given to him there, not to mention the uniqueness of the swap.

Can't wait to see the finished project as I'm sure the car's going to be awesome in it's own way.

do you guys have any suggestions for a new turbo that will bolt right up and not require me to upgrade injectors or anything else?

another T3. anything bigger and you're going to need more fuel.

HKS GT2530, GT2535, GT-RS, GT-SS. All will need bigger injectors, and engine management. There was an HKS one for sale on freshalloy for 750~ bucks. They are all "sport" upgrade so it may use the stock manifold (on the 26 they do).

If you don't have cash, keep it stock or put another lower mileage stocker on it.

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=188763

^ Here it is. Find out if it's still for sale.

I forget what trim the OEM RB25DET Turbo is, but if it's a T28, then the S15 Inconel Wheel T28 is an upgrade and so is the RB26DETT N1 Turbocharger (single one).

it won't let me go on fresh alloy man. I want something just like stock thats not ceramic. Do they make something like this where I won't have to upgrade everything

It's basically a GT2535 that was for sale for 700 bucks shipped. Which is a bolt on upgrade. I can PM the guy and find out for you if it's still for sale.
It should be good for around 350-400 whp.

OR.

You can find out if a N1 Turbo will fit on an RB25DET.

The N1 turbo is the steel wheeled replacement for the stock turbos on an RB26DETT that was used for motorsports.

But if you want to make power, the stock 370CC injectors are only good for so much (think 1 hp per CC). And once you do upgrade, you at least need a ROM Tune at the minimum for the octane of gas you have there (91 or 93). ROM Tune beats the shit out of running a crappy piggyback anyday of the week.

im not looking to spend that much, there is a local guy that has a brand new super T70 T4 flanged turbo for cheap, or these any good? i am not good with turbo's I always keep them stock..

Why don't you just keep the turbo stock for now? Get use to the power the stock t3 puts out and get the rest of the car finished, then focus on power later. Odds are your suspension and brakes are not going to be up to par for the power you're aiming for.

the turbo is blown, i need something to get me by right now, i have been talking to other people and they said that i should be safe with a gt2530 on the stock computer.

"Super T70" or "T3/T4" on the turbo usually means chinese made **** Turbo = better as a paperweight if you value the engine and your money and time. You are better off with a stock replacement or a used turbo. Cheap =/= quality.

GT2530 or 2535 is great for the RB25. Stock computer is ok as long as you do ROM Tuning.

Holy crap those welds look like shit, did you use rebar to build that diff brace? And is that little piece held on with a bolt supposed to be a torque arm or something?

Hockey pucks for engine mounts? WTF. Your sway bar/subframe spacers are equally scary. That car is dangerous to drive, it will never align properly, and the engine will likely end up falling on to the sub frame with the way that mount is braced. It reminds me of the 1jz swap with wood spacers lol

you obviously have not read through my thread because all most everything you have listed has been corrected....

So is it all completley done? Hows it run?

it was done and it ran awesome, it was extremely fast and handled amazingly close to stock then the turbo blew, im putting the new one on tomorrow and it will be back on the streets

Sounds good man! Post some more pics! And some videos of it running would be awesome ;)

Good job on your swap, most people don't have a clue on how to begin something like this. you started and finished your project :icon_tup:

well thank you, it is along way from finished though, i mean i can drive it around and everything, but still have a lot I want to change and clean up....

So why would you do everything twice? Instead of taking your time, thinking it out and then proceeding with a good plan....

I' not ripping on you. A solid plan makes everything come out better.

I just did a swap for a guy on this forum and here is how we did a few things:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08506sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08533sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08536sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08539sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSC08540sm.jpg

that looks good man, the reason everything has to be done twice is because I had a guy do most of it for cheap and you get what you pay for. The guy that was making the subframe for me backed out. Do you have the original subframe and steering rack all bolted in the stock location? I am very interested please let me know.

hey send me as much pics as you have man, i really need an idea for tranny mount and exhaust, I would really appreciate it.....yay im not the only one dumb enough to do this swap! I have so many questions for you lol

^^ the pics above are of my car that ElysianD did. Idk what the fuck you were thinking hacking up your shit like you did.

That angle iron wont do anything but break FINN and ElysianD. Why not just buy one of the diff braces currently available?

post more pics up FlyinFINN.

It holds up and down tq of the diff only, not side to side. It will not break. It has enough leverage to hold that. Look at your original PPF. Look at this diff brace here...
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...diff_brace.jpg
It has about a foot less leverage that mine does on the diff and it holds just fine. The only reason its held on the sides of the diff is to have a place to mount it, there are no other close bolt holes to bolt it to, so its made like that.

why you ignoring me flyinfinn?

He left for basic training 2 days ago, and I've been out of town. Should have an update on the car next week.

Ill just make a new thread for the car.

ok sounds good

i made mine so there was no way in hell it would bend, or bust. there was another brace attached from the cross bar to the top 2 mounting points of the diff. just dont have a pic of that
Attachment 706363

its been a long time since I have updated this, right now I have decided to fit the engine with the stock subframe in the stock position. I have not decided yet wether to knock in the firewall or buy a $1000 hood. I have also purchased fixed headlights so I have room for a fmic thats going on. Pics as soon as I get new mounts done.....

Prolly not strong enough either....

If you make 300lb-ft of torque at the engine, it goes through a 4:1 torque multiplication in the gearbox in 1st gear, meaning roughly 1,200lb-ft coming down the driveshaft....

Then you have a 4.1 rear end, making it 4,920lb-ft coming out of the diff. Obviously on street tires you can never really harness that kind of torque, but even at 50% of that, you need a brace capable of supporting 2400lbs @ 12inches forward of the rear axles. The diff will will try to rotate the nose UPWARD on throttle so that's the main concern here.

From what it looks like, your brace bolts to the body about 10inches forward of the axles, meaning your brace will see loads up to nearly 3,000 pounds of instantaneous force. Prolly double if you ever run slicks.

Material looks like 1-1/4 chromoly, which is strong as hell but with an open span of about 20inches it looks like, it will bend upward in the middle, putting a sheer load on the outer bolts.

If you add braces from the sides upwards toward the upper 2 bolts, then it won't bend but the best is to make the lever arm longer. The PPF just stops the diff from rotating up and down.

The longitudinal axis torque on the diff is not huge and is handled by the bushings on the rear of the case. Torque on the lateral axis is the main concern, just look how long the PPF was...... but it also supports the trans the opposite direction...

Anyway geek talk is over for today... :)

Nice build man.
love the motor and the car.

thanks for the pics you sent me ElysianD, I have decided that Im making mounts off of the subframe, I have to be carefull on the drivers side though where the steering shaft comes down. I decided not to make them off of the frame rails because they are thin sheet metal and will eventually start pulling in the shock towers, hence the reason for most of the ls and 2j swaps to have them off the subframe.

The oil pan will be done this weekend.

The steering is not getting touched the way Im doing this and the hood might close with modifications. Ill have pics next week.

i make 606whp and just over 400ftlbs tq. it hasnt had any problems as of yet. but it also hasnt seen slicks.

There really isn't any way to effectively build a driver's side mount on the subframe without using a lot of space and probably blocking in the steering rack.

I built the frame rail mounts from 1/8 mild steel on a 4x4inch plate to distribute load, so there is a total of 16inches of weld holding the mounts to the frame rails. The frame rail sheetmetal isn't really thin anyway. I would say almost 2mm or maybe 14ga...

I will be in back in STL on March 14-23. This thing better be running and we need to have our Mazda cruise...