Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

So my s5t2 need s a rebuild. I found tech2 and spoke to someone there and the estimated price for the swap is a little more than the rebuild of my engine. I am very tempted to go with a jz engine now.

they told me I can get a used engine from a place called tiger zone on ebay but i couldnt find it. Anyway. How good are these engines after so many years? Do they need a rebuild? The guy at the shop said id be good with just replacing the timing belts and the front/rear oil seals since the internals alre forged. Are these engines that good? My goal for this car is to make it a reliable drift machine i can drive on the street. Im not worried about smog. So help please. Im not sure wich way to go. i love rotors but im afraid of it not lasting that long after the rebuild despite the fact that it would be a very reputable company building it with racing experiance. im not into V8 or nissans sr motors.
Thanks.

RotaSpinna69

iTrader: (10)

If you get a good motor from where ever you purchase from, it should be good for 10000000 miles Just receive it, do a compression test, install a FULL gasket kit with timing belt, and you are ready to rock!

http://store.driftmotion.com/static/index.php

turbotito121079

the 2jz motor is by far the best motor to come out of Japan you can run 700 rwhp everyday beating it like it stole something. or you can make it a dyno queen and make a 1000rwhp motor on stock internals and she will still last you sometime. i been working on the 2jz motors for 6 or 7 years now and once you go 2j you will never go back to any other Japanese motor. its not like a rotary that you know you going to have to rebuild in the very near future. the motor makes good torque numbers and if you want more you can always get a n/a motor. the 2jz in a heavy supra moves. a 2jz in a light car and you going to be driving around in dippers. the 2jz is one of the easiest motor to make power on you can eve make 450rwhp on stock turbos bpu setup.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

This sounds awesome! How will the fc handle a 2jz in it? wont it add a lot of weight? What do you all recomend as far as buying one online. Ive seen them range about $1000 to $5000. Is it luck of the draw with the less expensive ones or is it all the same? Is there a specific type or model of 2jz or 1jz i should look for? Whats bpu set up?

turbotim

It does add a bit of weight to the car, but it is freakin awesome the amount of power the car now has, I just finished my 2j swap in my fc, I already new these engines were awesome when I started the build. I have always been a boost piston guy, and I bought my fc for the purpose of putting in a 2jz, if you go on you tube and type in supra vs what ever you want to see it racing the supra is kicking major *** 9 times out of 10. MKIV supra's all have this engine and if they are kicking everythings *** in a race and they weigh nearly 800 lbs more than an fc, imagine what your fc will be like. turbotito121079 is right about these engines, I read a comparisons to every other Japanese motor and they compare the internals of a 2j to earth moving equipment internals. these engines are ridiculously over built. No warranty issues with a 2j.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

I know ive seen the vids and i will NEVER hate on the MKIV. My only concern is manuverabilty. Im no pro drifter and im just starting but its good to have a nimble car. And the fc is pretty nimble with the stock engine in it. Ive got agx on tanabi springs. I will upgrade later. I guess i can learn to handle the beast that is the 2jz.

whats redline on 2jz or 1j?

Whats the engine code for MKIV supra engine? 2jzgte or gtevvti?

Whats the average cost of this swap anyway?

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

The engine code got the JZA80 is both the 2JZGTE and THE 2JZGTE-VVTI. The VVTI came later in the production run. Redline is 7500 if I remember correctly.
The 2J is a great engine, but a proper swap will run you about 4K not including labor. That said it's alot more stable platform than a rotary if your going to drive it hard often.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

That price tag is well within my range. It's going to cost me 5k to rebuild the rotary alone. I can't find a reason not to do this swap so far. The only reason I wouldn't do it is it's a lot more than I was originaly intending to spend. That and the fact it's not really an rx7 after the swap.

where do fine inline 6 gentlemen suggest or recomend one looks for one of these amazing machines?

MK3Brent

iTrader: (6)

If I could do it again, I'd probably go LSX turbo.

Why not? Lighter, lower, more power per boost... parts are widely available and inexpensive in comparison.

I dunno...

Slevin_FD

iTrader: (26)

You can bolt in a 20B for 4K into an FC.... well it's not quite that easy, but basically.
I want to know what your planning on doing rebuild wise for the rotary.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

Well the details are Im going with pineapple racing. He recomended i go with his stage 3 oil mod. i told him im no pro, im just staring to drift. He said it doesnt matter. Its best to build for the most abuse the engine will take. I also wanted to get to about 350hp or less on my 13bt. The builds they do are legit. New factory rotor housings fd side seal springs and oem apex seals. The oil mod is a big deal. fd main bearings, enlarged oil passages, oil pan windage baffle, oil pump cavaty porting, and i gorget what else. I also was gonna go with a large street port. So its a big build. Its an over build. Im down with it, but im not sure that I want to spenf that much on something that wont last too long under stress anyway. Oil mods or not the weakest link in the chain is the apex seal. Not even ceramics can withstand one good detonation. I dont like the idea of 3mm seals either. Ive heard bad things.

After that I was gonna save some more cash durring the break in period and put in a haltek p1000. fmic or vmount after. BNR stage 3 turbo.

The 20b is more than 4k to put in. Ive looked into it. Ask evil aviator on here. To get a decent core for a rebuild is 3-5k. He said for an na build guys get up to 10k+ after on the engine alone. I cant even fabricate stuff. Other wise i would do that in a heart beat! I love that sound!

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

Whats an lsx?

MK3Brent

iTrader: (6)

Really?

njs619

If you are looking for 2j or 1j, contact J HOt in Texas they have been around for years and have been selling real good motors. Also try Elite Jdm they are based out of philly but they have there own yards in japan where get there stuff from. Or you going big single?

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

alright. I found a place on ebay that has 2jzgte from aristos. Its the same engine as the mark 4 right?

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps. i dont know enough about the engine to start looking for mods just yet. If its anything like fd twins then its probably best to switch to single. yes? Is it hard to control the 2jz twins like the fc twins?

I just looked up jhot in texas. they shut down last year apparently.

blue87t2

no, need to mention that you need a rear sump oil pan. the difference is the oil pans(front and rear) and most of them were autos. 2jz pans can interchange so you just need to find a rear sump oil pan. other than that they are the same.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

good stuff. Is there a big difference between !j and 2Jz? I understand that the 1j is 2.5 vs. the 3.0 2j. What else is defferent?

njs619

2j has a bigger aftermarket. I believe with 1j in the fd you can use stock hood? (I think) If J Hot is closed look at elite jdm ask for nick or justin those guys are legit. I would keep the twins and upgrade to BNR JDM GT28 Style Hybrid Stock Twin Turbo Upgrade. Also I would get a r154 tranny cause the supra and aristo tranny can't hold much power. with the 2j the power is really endless.

Here's mine in my gs300. Take care.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

^ That looks nice! Well at 280hp for both of these I cant ask for power for drifting. Guess now its a matter of choosing vvti or not.

What do you guys do for exhaust? Its all custom at this point right?

turbotito121079

i did a 20b swap before i was in 11k and was not even done. i sold the car because i started thinking there is one more rotor i have to worry about so sold. lsx is a good swap but its why more money to do over a 2jz. lsx is a good motor but i feel like putting an American motor in a jap car is a slap in not cool. i want to know that when i just spanked a vette that it was with a jap motor 3.0 not a 5.7 or 6.0l. going with a lsx motor is going against the grain to me lol. buy a gto if you want a American motor. 2jz is noy that much more heavier then a 13b and it might be lighter then a 20b. 20b is really heavy.

njs619

The vvti is sick but there is not as many mods as the non vvti. As far as exhaust I'm running 3 inch all the way down. Just don't buy the auto tranny, get a r154 or even a v160 but they come with a heavy price.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

The 20B is my dream but its just waaaaaaay out of my pockets league.

if lsx is american than thats why i dont know about it. I dont like american muscle. V8s are comming out of the woodworks right now. Plus I know a 2jz is better quality. Its toyota for crying out loud. Lol

All the 2jzgtes i find have been from Aristos with auto trans. Can I just swap the bell housings and put the r154 on it? Tech2 sells them. what about the Ecu though? Isnt it programed to work with the autotrans on the Aristo?

turbotim

when you were asking what the difference is from 1j to 2j,

the cylinder head is a little different but can be interchanged, the deck hieght is shorter on the 1j. every thing that is bolted to the 1j can be bolted to the 2j. my 2j has a rear sump 1j oil pan. as far as I know its all interchangeable, accept the t belt but thats because of the deck height.

Linguo415

iTrader: (1)

^ I see. Would changing heads do anything t the compression ratio?