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Moved to L.A. Test fitting the DRs. Maybe someday I'll make it out to the track. Whatever! Test drive. The car was overheating at freeway speed. We suspect the cowl hood was working so good it pressurized the engine compartment making air stagnate and not flow thru the radiator. I opened the L88 vent to make it functional and ordered real hood heat extractors. We'll see. My buddy Wayne gave me this banner for my new garage. Badass!
I really hope so. Yes it's ducted but not totally sealed. I ran outta time when I needed to get it on the boat in Hawaii. I have the material to finish it, just need the time. I do have an A/C condenser as well as an intercooler all before the radiator.
I run a shrouded ford taurus fan. The car stays cool around town and at idle. Even playing under boost and uphill.
Just speeds over 50 it gets real warm. EVEN down hill over 50 gets warm! After vents and finishing the duct work completely, if it's still getting hot, I'll go some sort of V-mount. But I think it'll be fine.
I run a shrouded ford taurus fan. The car stays cool around town and at idle. Even playing under boost and uphill.
Just speeds over 50 it gets real warm. EVEN down hill over 50 gets warm! After vents and finishing the duct work completely, if it's still getting hot, I'll go some sort of V-mount. But I think it'll be fine.
definitely a pressure issue, a good way to test for airflow is with some string taped around the hood openings.
Been a while... So I see you moved to LA, ever thought about bringing it to hoonigan?
No news here, just been doing a lot of work on my property. If all goes well they'll start building the house and pole barn in mid march 2020 with completion in nov-dec 2020. Great time to move in huh?
Well if you do end up on the show can you let them know I got that spare 3.7 and mt82 for shartkart free if they wanna come scoop it up.
I run a shrouded ford taurus fan. The car stays cool around town and at idle. Even playing under boost and uphill.
Just speeds over 50 it gets real warm. EVEN down hill over 50 gets warm! After vents and finishing the duct work completely, if it's still getting hot, I'll go some sort of V-mount. But I think it'll be fine.
Does your radiator have a built in trans cooler that you're using?
Sorry for the long delay. I thought I responded to this question. I must have been interrupted.
Anyway, no trans cooler in the radiator. It's an N flow Koyyo.
I fixed the issue with the hood vents and completing the ducting. After making the ducting, I used an expanding tape like gasket from Loews. It's a foam tape that expands as you unroll it. It's found in the ducting aisle. Cars back on E85. Here's a 10 psi pull is a start and don't think going any higher boost right now is worth leaving the stock rear end on the track.
Redid all the fuel line and replaced the old FPR. Now just ordered the exhaust that rusted out. Once I get that stitched in there it'll be all stainless. Like I said up top. Just tightening everything up on quality. As of now it was just mocked up. It's just that we got it right almost outta the gate and only made small changes. That made me take on more then I should have and dragged out the project. But also let me drive the car the entire 4 years it's been in there. Now it's time to blow it apart for paint and put it together for final assembly. So I hope.
Well, just like that, I crashed. (On the track luckily) Tagged the wall with the right rear quarter.
Time for a reshell and ground up build.
I'm glad I hadn't painted yet. I did find a great condition sport model FC with manual roll up windows and non sunroof chassis.
[QUOTE=30mpgfc;11966046]Sweet. I have continued to do more research and I'm almost 90% sure the fwd cyclones will bolt on to the mt82 if you have that steel starter plate and a f150/stang intake manifold. My current choice is between a $450 3.7 or a $1100 3.5w/turbos.[/QUOTE EB
The 3.5 EB could be done but requires a new ECU which can get expensive. The 3.5 is a direct injection engine and the 3.7 is exclusively port injected. Most aftermarket controllers cannot support DI. Also, AFAIK the 3.5 EB is/was only available with an automatic transmission even in the F-150's. You can't just fit an MT82 to it and go. You need an ECU that can handle a manual trans because the stock ECU will be looking for input from an auto trans. Ford sells one but they don't give it away at $1,900. Of course if you decide on one of Fords 6spd or 10spd automatics that is a moot point. For myself using an automatic would only add bulk and complication.
I am just starting a 3.7 based project and have pretty much decided to get it running with a stock 3.7 and ECU. Then later add the 3.5 turbos which are amazingly cheap to buy new. Initially the 3.5 would kick butt because it produces 365hp compared to the 305hp that the 3.7 produces. But really they are the same engine under the paint and share all the same rotating components plus 6 bolt steel man caps. A number of people have boosted the 3.7 to 600hp using all stock engine components. Around here the 3.7 is a lot cheaper too.
Name's Dave, and im currently in the middle of a 3.7 swap into a 1990 240sx (yea yea i know, not an RX-7). However, i have found this thread to be extremely inspiring and helpful, as i've read it more than a dozen times.
I came from a surprisingly un-modded 240, which i AutoX'd and proceeded to upgrade minorly (springs, sways, tires, etc.) then the swap bug hit. Ford family raised, and a natural swerve from wanting to do an LS, i landed on the 3.7, and much to my benefit, i found this thread.
brief build plans (to assist with below)
run motor stock to start
AutoX/Track car, that i can drive to work all week, and race on the weekend - so suspension mods are a MUST, some aero. more of a "control" car than a HP brute. but who knows.. it may see a strip someday just for giggles
I would like to keep SOME of the mustang features (cluster mainly)
240 HVAC and lighting etc.
im posting to ask if those that have made decent progress on the swap and/or have running cars could provide some further detailed guidance as to wiring, as this is the most daunting task for someone like myself (although i do have a bit more exposure than some). i have the following sprawled out across my basement and am wondering if i have all that is truly needed:
ECU
DbW Pedal
Engine bay harness (and main fusebox)
Dash Harness (planning to run Mustang Cluster)
Power Harness (starter wires and Battery wire etc.)
Pretty sure i have MOST of the rest of the body harness too, as that came attached to my engine bay harness.
(my basement is a NEST of harnesses right now)
I have found a ford factory manual link online and it keeps showing a "Smart Junction box" - is this necessary? from what i can tell it's a smaller fuseblock unit that joins a couple harnesses? heres an eBay link to one if it'll work to provide some visual..
Welcome
This thread originated as a theory of if the swap were possible. And luckily it is. Unfortunately as I know mach.80 is the only one who's completed their swap yet. He said he was gonna do a rewire and post information on what he needed and had done.
My swap is currently on the back burner as I am trying to get my first house built. Plus I'm waiting on a $1200 diff swap kit who's funds haven't become available yet.
I pretty much have all the electric components you have plus some some dash harness as I will be going with a tablet and wifi obd2 dongle instead of harness.
just wondering but do you have the engine in the bay yet? If so, how does it fit?
08-27-19, 06:28 PM
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