hey im selling my 13b-rew and i would like to know what swap would be the best.....the 2jz super swap, the any of the nissan motors, the 20b, or the ls/lt motor swap?? if anyone would like to let me know i would be very greatfull.
thank you

 

if I had a choice, I would do a 2jz swap but I dont know how often its been done. there is alot of write ups on 20b's and lsx swaps. there are already pre-fabricated products that you can buy for the 20b and the lsx as well. depends on how much money, time, and headache you are willing to sacrifice.

 

i would go for the 20b they make amazing power, and they do it on lower boost.

 

well depends on what you want... if want to stay rotary and make a crap load of pwer go with the 20b but keep in mind that it involves a lot of fab work ie subframe etc, and the cost is quite daunting. As for nissan i wouldnt, just because im an anti nissan person, but im sure it would make reasonable power , but ur still lokking at subframe mods plumbing etc. the EL ES JUAN or LT swaps are prob. the most widely done and there is a company that makes/mods subframes so the motor will drop right in but dont quote me on that one someone else with a swap could tell u more plus theres already a bunch of threads on it. the 2JZ ive seen done before and yielded typical crazy supra power numbers. problem 1 getting all that crazy power to the ground. also your going to run into clearance issues with some of the longer motors i.e. 2JZ, RB25, RB26 . do a search there a *** load of threads on the ls and lt swaps.

 

Not like a V8 will.

 

if i were to do it again, I would probably go ls1, i am just about to get my rb25 fd running and it was a huge pain, i should have just bought the ls1 kit and make crazy power without worring about boost leaks and turbos going out. With ls1 you also have tons of support for cheap....the 2jz would be my next choice.....

 

All I can say, lets not forget about the good old 1JZ. You know the one... 2.5L of twin turbo fury from japan. It's just like the 2JZ, but more rev happy. Did I mention that you don't have to sell your left ******** on the black market to afford one? It's a great motor. (In the best Borat voice) HIGH-FIVE!!!

 

thanks for all of the advice!!! i did alot of research, i love the rotary but its a pain and mine just loves to heat up along with poor air flow in my engine bay. the nissan motors are cool but i cant find very much info as the other swaps, i do like the v8 because of the natural aspirated power and i do like the 2jz because ive experianced some of that crazy *** supra power. I am kinda wanting to save some money.......would anyone know if the non turboed 2jz would have the correct hood clearance because ive noticed that the intake for that goes over the top of the valve cover on the 2j.........

 

i am looking and hoping to get a non turbo 2jz and then later put a single kit in it because i do want to keep my car reliable for now. turbos are fun but very troulblesome when used

 

The 2jz-ge and 2jz-gte blocks are not exactly the same. The internals are different, not to mention the ge does not have the oil squirters (that the GTE, and RB26DETT have). It cannot handle "high power" unless you throw some cash on it. The GE internals are good for up to 450 whp max until you start breaking stuff.

The 1jz-gte or 2jz-gte are much better options if you must go recipro-engine.

Better off saving and getting a GTE and making 500 whp on the stock twins with race gas. around 430-450 whp out of pump.

A good friend of mine put down 504 whp with CP Pistons, ACL bearings, HKS Cams, stock heads, Downpipe, full exhaust, Intercooler + Piping and a HKS F-CON V PRO out of the stock US Twins. The 2jz-ge heads flow a little better up top if you end up doing headwork.

 

the GE shortblock will do 8-900 wheel at limit. 5-600rwhp dd on pump has been done for years and years. keyword boostlogic NA+t kit, they are insanely reliable. mid 500's wheel all day long. Those are the same guys who make streetable 1200-1300rwhp supras, ive seen them at my gym in austin, parked backwards in weird parking spots- true DD monster supras.

the GTE oil squirters are an oem item for oem reasons. They are also deleted by guys doing crazy power builds, Oil pressure @ high rpm > oil squirting need.

the 2jzgte is not a rotary, its bane is crankshaft main bearing being spun due to heavy duty clutch, the thrust washers eat it untill eventually it cant takes it anymore.

ive ran a 13b-t on 1 quart of oil. ran pretty hot, but no bearings to spin.

To build a high power 2jz, you would replace the pistons at 800 rwhp (if smart) with forged pistons, no oil squirters needed.

if one was on a budget (for sub 800rwhp)

2jzge longmotor with double stacked gte headgasket + custom log intake manifold with q45 TB, change to GTE pistons if you like ($63 each piston with rings from dealer, less for secondhand or zero mile removed for baller builds)


I have a 2jzgte on a stand i just rebuilt, and have a spare vvti gte setup as well im pondering building up for a FC/FD......

 

A) I was talking about stock interials (I.E: OEM Pistons, rods, and crank). The OEM 2jz-ge pistons have too low of a compression to run 800 whp...so please show me someone running 800 whp on a bone stock 2jz-ge shortblock.

If you upgrade pistons, that does not matter anyway. 2jz-gte pistons, CP, Tomei, etc.

B) I am sure the OP is not doing an ultra high horsepower build where his oil pressure is going to massively overpower the need for oil squirters. Not everyone does ultra high power builds.

 

Come again?

 

There is plenty of bearings in there bud.

 

I'm doing a 2jz swap, IMO it's the way to go!

 

The LS1 swap is fairly easy to do. No major fabbing. The power and torque are hard to beat NA. It's a very reliable daily driver. Just my .02

 

abbreviated story:

bought random fc; on the way home sprang a leak. drove over 20 miles with minimum oil, no way a piston engine could do that.

it does not have rods, and rod bearings. the rotary not as sensitive to lack of oil death as piston engines are - at least from lubrication of rotating assembly - theres no way you can shoot a rod out of the side of the block, as there are none.

 

How often does one run their car out of oil unless through dumb luck or stupidity? Your logic is all fine and dandy except your N/A rotary produces a fraction of the power of most piston engines and is far less efficient. Try and keep an FD running fine. Most people can't. There's a rare group that are able to, through luck and being superior to every other rotary owner, but you have to be above and beyond the average person to get reliability out of them. Your average driver can get 200k miles out of a stock LS1 with 300rwhp. How many people can get 50k out of a 300rwhp 13b-rew?

 

when you buy a vert on CL running for $250, you dont really care. had a motor at home waiting for it, got it home.

piston engines die all the time from bearing failure, etc. 13brew dies all the time from other things.

my engine of choice? 2jzgte. have 2 in the garage.

 

you prob mean that the oem 2jz-ge has HIGHer compression (its 10:1 vs 8.5:1 for the gte)

search supraforums, there are more than a few high 3 digit rwhp NA+T's on stock longmotor. obviously nothing else is stock.

oil squirters and turbo specific oil pump of the GTE is proven not to really matter for most of the people/shops doing builds.

 

Wow i was retarded back then. Well now with a hell of alot of experiance and now an automotive tech, i went with the 1jz vvti swap. I did this because i wanted to have some reliable power. Its a single turbo instead of the sequential like the other jz engines, it sits lower with out loweing the steer rack and you can use the scoot hood. The swap is almost finished ( i did have the 2jz vvti gte in before and made good power but i want something more practicle so im going with the 1jz vvti)