Other Engine Conversions - non V-8 Discussion of non-rotary engines, exc V-8's, in a car originally powered by a Rotary Engine.

anyone considering a 2jz or 1jz swap. please read

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Old 09-27-10, 11:52 PM
  #51  
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Love the vid. What Turbo you running on there is that t88 33h?
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Old 09-30-10, 07:51 PM
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look what came in the mail today :-D

dual ball bearing precision 6265 billet
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Old 09-30-10, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Toyotarx7
look what came in the mail today :-D

dual ball bearing precision 6265 billet
Wow.........................................
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Old 10-02-10, 12:26 PM
  #54  
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Post up on www.norotors.com as we would love to see a build thread on the car. Can you corner weight it also to see where the weight has shifted?
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Old 10-02-10, 12:34 PM
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What a cute little turbo, lol just kidding. The swap looks good. I'm itching to get mine done after putting it off for the last 6 months.
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Old 10-03-10, 05:36 PM
  #56  
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It was good talking to you today. Thanks for answering all my questions. I will definately keep in touch.
-wes
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Old 10-05-10, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Toyotarx7
give me a call man i can do it for u in one-two months time
Don't worry, I got it all covered https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=2jz

I just had other priorities to the FD over the past 6 months, like building a shop.
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Old 10-06-10, 07:06 PM
  #58  
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That's exciting news, Tony!

I recently purchased a Tech2 kit and am modeling the components to do some analysis.

If you ever need someone to model, simulate, or provide engineering drawings let me know.
Here are a couple parts I'm throwing together in the assembly.

I just took delivery of the parts yesterday.

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Old 10-07-10, 05:14 PM
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yea after using the tech 2 kit i feel that they really half assed it when designing it, which is why we will be completely re-designing from scratch. to allow the hood to clear as well as no bump steer, if u look at the kit closing, its really nothing by straight bars going from one end to the other, it doesnt cradle the engine it just sits it on top of the bars. and i may take u up on the offer on engineering drawings to apply for a patent.
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Old 10-07-10, 09:55 PM
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to be continued................................stay tuned for more
great stuff guys,keep the bright ideas coming.
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Old 10-10-10, 01:35 PM
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When you say no bump steer and stock hood. How much dose the steering rack move? or dose it not move at all?
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Old 10-10-10, 09:36 PM
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I'd love to see some actual analysis/testing to back up your claims of using the stock hood with no bumpsteer being induced. There is no way to not lower the rack with the engine that low. Not bashing, just looking forward to some discussion on your claims.
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Old 10-10-10, 10:46 PM
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like i said guys, stay tuned :-) rome wasn't built in a day, im picking up another rx7 this week, as a matter of fact im picking up " Mopar97 " car to re-do and finish his project. once completed, the car will go under vigorous testing and pulls to a sure the product.
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Old 10-11-10, 07:29 PM
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yes sir!! my car is getting picked up Thursday!!!!!! im so freaking excited! guys i'll post a pic tomorrow of his wiring harness the did of mine ( if you didn't post it already )..honestly Toyota wouldnt have done a better job than this..i was stunned when i saw it.. i mean i expected it to be good, but nothing like this..every single freaking wire and plug was labeled..looks better than new.

and PS: tony is probably one of the most honest guys i have met in a very, very long time.
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Old 10-11-10, 10:29 PM
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well be finding out this month.
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Old 10-13-10, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mopar97
well be finding out this month.
Looking forward to it. Make sure you show some pics/video measuring the bumpsteer.
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Old 10-13-10, 06:58 PM
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With the steering rack unmoved, the engine is directly on top of it with perhaps 1/4" clearance.

If you move the engine further back (into the firewall) you can bring the engine down and clear the crank pulley. (Not something I'd want to do.)

The rack needs about 2" downward with the engine to clear the hood (tight fit).
At that point, it's pretty close to the ground.
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Old 10-13-10, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MK3Brent
With the steering rack unmoved, the engine is directly on top of it with perhaps 1/4" clearance.

If you move the engine further back (into the firewall) you can bring the engine down and clear the crank pulley. (Not something I'd want to do.)

The rack needs about 2" downward with the engine to clear the hood (tight fit).
At that point, it's pretty close to the ground.
Exactly what I found as well, around 2" drop in the steering rack to have the engine clear the stock hood. I wouldn't recommend sticking the engine into the firewall either, I was just saying that's the only way to not lower the rack and have the engine clear the hood. Unless you build a custom rack and connect it to the front of the knuckles, but then you have some serious analysis to do if you want to keep ackerman, wheel angle, turning radius, etc. the same. It's not as easy as some may think. There is a reason why Tech2 raised the engine up, it's easier and you don't have to deal with the inevitable bump steer.
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Old 10-14-10, 09:16 PM
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Let's see some pics of your subframe TJMotorsports.
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Old 11-16-10, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Toyotarx7
look what came in the mail today :-D

dual ball bearing precision 6265 billet
Dayyyyum Tony. No wonder you don't need that GT35....haha great job with the build and ill be on my way after this deployment.
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Old 11-16-10, 06:15 PM
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nice job on the build. i personally have a Lexus GS300 turbo and must say you did a sweet deal on this all by your self. keep up the work. maybe one day ill come across you
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Old 11-19-10, 04:27 PM
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Looks really good so far. As for Tech 2, I hate their engine mounts. Hate them, hate them, hate them. The bulge hood looks disgusting. /Rant

So if you guys patent a design which allows a 2jz gte to fit under the stock hood, I'm in!

Once again, project looks great so far!
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Old 11-29-10, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Toyotarx7
yea the 2jz sits much higher than the 1jz, you can make the 2jz fit with stock but the motor will be inches off the ground, which to me, its not safe!! and then since the motor is lower, so would be the tranny and the diff will have to come down as well, personally, i dont think its worth it,
THIS IS NOT ALL TRUE. I DID SOME MODDING AND FABRICATION TO MY SUB FRAME AMDE MY OWN MOUNTS AND MACHINED MY OWN PART TO GET THE SCOOT HOOD TO CLOSE AND MY MOTOR HAS MORE THEN ENOUGH ROOM TO CLEAR ANYTHING ON THE ROAD. MY TRANS OR DIFF IS NOT LOWER. ALL I BROUGHT WAS THE SWAP KIT AND DID CHANGES TO A FEW THINGS. IM A WELDER AND FABRICATOR BY TRADE ITS WHAT I DO EVERYDAY. ALSO IM GETTING MY MECHANICAL ENGINEERING DEGREE AS WE SPEAK. HERE A PIC OF HOOD CLOSED NOTICED I HAVE MY HOOD PINS CLOSED ASWELL
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Old 11-29-10, 06:37 PM
  #74  
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Looks like you don't have the cover on. Will that not be an issue once installed?
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Old 11-29-10, 10:54 PM
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if you look you can see chrome valve covers
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