4g63 in a rx7
01-23-07, 08:44 PM
#226
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You know, speaking of rotary builds, Marco was always saying that the J-spec and the REW weren't the engine to use. He always said that the 13B-RE was the way to go.
01-23-07, 09:39 PM
#227
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Thats what I went with, purchased 2 so far ( blew one up as part of the learning process) 1200 each, both used motors had over 100 PSI comp. The entire project took me 4 weekends to acomplish, and have a running car. Doesn't make allot of power on stock turbos, (and ultra conservative tune) but still fun.
The rew is slightly (allmost the same) better internally, but much less likley to be good as a used engine from japan, and also about twice the cost.
The rew is slightly (allmost the same) better internally, but much less likley to be good as a used engine from japan, and also about twice the cost.
01-23-07, 10:29 PM
#228
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here's what DSM's are about....
www.tpgtuning.com
thats my crew.. shoud be in this 9's next time it goes out.. ran a 10.63 with a full interior, oh yeah, it all on ------PUMP GAS!!!!!!!!!!!
www.tpgtuning.com
thats my crew.. shoud be in this 9's next time it goes out.. ran a 10.63 with a full interior, oh yeah, it all on ------PUMP GAS!!!!!!!!!!!
01-24-07, 12:16 AM
#230
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Originally Posted by adictd2b00st
hiboost guess what, no one cares about your opinion.....cause thats all your posting, your OPINION. who cares if you like it or not, its not your car anyways.
01-24-07, 12:24 AM
#231
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Originally Posted by coltboostin
Pics and dyno graph can be found hetre.
http://shearerfabrications.com/dev/gallery/jriccio
It looks lazy since the dyno was done in 3rd. Watch the 10.5@149mph video-and you can see how responsive the turbo actually was.
http://shearerfabrications.com/dev/gallery/jriccio
It looks lazy since the dyno was done in 3rd. Watch the 10.5@149mph video-and you can see how responsive the turbo actually was.
01-25-07, 10:05 AM
#233
Originally Posted by rarson
Whoa, your pics are hosted on Shearer's site? You must be a NABR member then, right?
As far as a decent rotary engine putting out gobs of power, you might want to search for some posts from LUPE. He was pushing 6-something out of a two-rotor that seemed like it was running really well. He also got the car down to like 2200 lbs WITH the interior still in it (it's an FD) and ran a 10 flat on the brakes (something he was missing, they would've kicked him out if he broke into the 9's). He recently tried selling the car on ebay... I don't know if he ever sold it. Awesome car though.
And certainly, there's probably a few other cars out there from guys like Crispeed that make gobs of power all day. But the clear, obvious, and undisputable point is that it's VERY much easier for the average guy to make that kind of power with a 4g63 than it is with a 13b. I basically bow down to anyone that can tune a 600-hp 2-rotor and make it last. It's a really tough feat. Too tough for me to waste my time and money with it.
As far as a decent rotary engine putting out gobs of power, you might want to search for some posts from LUPE. He was pushing 6-something out of a two-rotor that seemed like it was running really well. He also got the car down to like 2200 lbs WITH the interior still in it (it's an FD) and ran a 10 flat on the brakes (something he was missing, they would've kicked him out if he broke into the 9's). He recently tried selling the car on ebay... I don't know if he ever sold it. Awesome car though.
And certainly, there's probably a few other cars out there from guys like Crispeed that make gobs of power all day. But the clear, obvious, and undisputable point is that it's VERY much easier for the average guy to make that kind of power with a 4g63 than it is with a 13b. I basically bow down to anyone that can tune a 600-hp 2-rotor and make it last. It's a really tough feat. Too tough for me to waste my time and money with it.
No-I work here. I am the Sales and Marketing manager. I have been working with these cars since I was 15, so I learn more than I care to know and have made many connections along the way.
01-25-07, 10:08 AM
#234
Originally Posted by hiboost
Let me tell you that one of the best and strongest 4G63's build ups would be 2.3l stroker. ..
2.0L Bottom ends.
01-25-07, 10:12 AM
#235
Originally Posted by slo
What kind of turbo?
Also what do you mean about the dyno run done in 3rd, I would understand if it was being reported against wheel speed instead of RPM, but its being shown as RPM. It looks like you have no boost untill 5k, and then a nice steady rise to readline?.
Also what do you mean about the dyno run done in 3rd, I would understand if it was being reported against wheel speed instead of RPM, but its being shown as RPM. It looks like you have no boost untill 5k, and then a nice steady rise to readline?.
I would see 16psi low boost @5500, and mid boost (30psi which that dyno pull was made on) @ 5900-6200 depending on gear.
The RPM you reach boost in varies with RPM, even in your stock Tii. You will always reach boost very late in the early gears, and more quickly in tall 4th and 5th gears.
This was on a non BB GT42.
01-25-07, 11:10 AM
#236
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The RPM you reach boost in varies with RPM, even in your stock Tii. You will always reach boost very late in the early gears, and more quickly in tall 4th and 5th gears.
Big turbo...
01-25-07, 01:03 PM
#238
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What you would need to do if you wanted to do this swap.
it should be the same as installing a 4g63 into a Starion/conquest chassis.
they use the Mitsubishi 2.0L truck block, it is the same dimensions and such as the 4g63 in the eclipse but is a longitudinal engine block.
you then take the crank rods and all the internal parts and install them into that block (they are the same but stronger on the turbo models) so its a direct swap.
then the Eclipse/talon head will bolt to the top as normal but you will need to fab up something for the intake and such. its not hard just hard to line up all the parts to do it.
then presto you have a longitudnal 4g63 engine and yes I believe it might bolt up to the Mazda trans but the conquest/starion trans is by far better for reliability with lots of power through it (my opinion)
all the engine electronics will have to go with the motor so its a good bet that you will need a complete donor talon/eclipse and then go to the bone yard and pull a truck block.
go to DSM.org and research it.
it should be the same as installing a 4g63 into a Starion/conquest chassis.
they use the Mitsubishi 2.0L truck block, it is the same dimensions and such as the 4g63 in the eclipse but is a longitudinal engine block.
you then take the crank rods and all the internal parts and install them into that block (they are the same but stronger on the turbo models) so its a direct swap.
then the Eclipse/talon head will bolt to the top as normal but you will need to fab up something for the intake and such. its not hard just hard to line up all the parts to do it.
then presto you have a longitudnal 4g63 engine and yes I believe it might bolt up to the Mazda trans but the conquest/starion trans is by far better for reliability with lots of power through it (my opinion)
all the engine electronics will have to go with the motor so its a good bet that you will need a complete donor talon/eclipse and then go to the bone yard and pull a truck block.
go to DSM.org and research it.
01-25-07, 01:29 PM
#239
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then presto you have a longitudnal 4g63 engine and yes I believe it might bolt up to the Mazda trans but the conquest/starion trans is by far better for reliability with lots of power through it
01-25-07, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by coltboostin
No-I work here. I am the Sales and Marketing manager. I have been working with these cars since I was 15, so I learn more than I care to know and have made many connections along the way.
01-25-07, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by slo
I disagree on this point the strarion trans is far worst than the T2 trans. There are a number of people runing 20B's through the stock T2 trans.
01-25-07, 02:41 PM
#242
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Hell I think this thing has a stock rx7 drive line:
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1362252051
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1362252051
01-25-07, 03:05 PM
#243
Originally Posted by slo
I disagree on this point the strarion trans is far worst than the T2 trans. There are a number of people runing 20B's through the stock T2 trans.
The Starquest trans in terms of RWD trans option is quite weak. The D50 trans is even worse. From my research-It seems the Tii will do a better job of holding the power-especially with high RPM shifts.
01-25-07, 03:45 PM
#244
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Originally Posted by slo
I disagree on this point the strarion trans is far worst than the T2 trans. There are a number of people runing 20B's through the stock T2 trans.
It may be a better trans but I dont think it will bolt up easily, but a starion/conquest trans will bolt up and handel the power
It would be cool though..
01-25-07, 04:31 PM
#245
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Ever been to www.projectzerog.com? They've already bolted them together.
All you really need to do is switch the bell housings.
All you really need to do is switch the bell housings.
01-27-07, 01:38 AM
#247
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Hey guys. For all you guys asking me about trannys, talking tranny stuff, and thinking about using different blocks and so on, this is just my 2 cents. I prefer to use domestic trannys because they are SOO much stronger and there are a ton of upgrades for them. Buschur racing makes an adapter plate that allows us to bolt up any Chevy/GM tranny to the 4g63. The plate costs $350 on www.buschurracing.com. And with some simple modifications to that adapter plate, you can also bolt up any Ford tranny. Now with all the GM & Ford trannys in your arsenal everything is so easy. You can choose from any ultra powerful automatic or manual GM or Ford tranny!!! Or even custom build something with any kind of gear ratio you want for a reasonable price.There are tons of 6 speeds too. If you want to use a Ford manual tranny;the 4cyl Ford Mustang/Mekur XR4TI from 1988-1994 uses the same diameter clutch as the DSM's, but with the center spline to fit a ford tranny. Centerforce and tons of other high performance clutchmakers make clutches for those mustangs. Use the ACT AWD chromoly flywheel because its thinner and it will clear the adapter plate, get a pilot bearing pressed into it. For GM manual trannys; same ACT flywheel but get a custom clutch disc at www.clutchnet.com ,they're pretty cheap(mitsu diameter, GM center spline). For Ford and GM Automatics (Chevy Powerglide, Ford C4...whatever)just follow Buschur's setup on his site. Automatics are even easier because most domestic guys run autos and there are tons of custom torque converters etc. out there. Check out www.grannysspeedshop.com, they put a lot of V8's and V6's in FD/FC's, they have tons of info on mounting trannys and wiring issues. I strongly suggest using a full stand alone like Electromotive, Haltech etc., wire everthing from scratch. Use the Mighty Max mounts on the motor, get a crossmember made in the FD/FC with mounts for the motor, grannysspeedshop even sells some crossmembers, make up tranny mounts, cut the oil pan flange off turn it around it an reweld it, or get a custom oil pan made at www.cantonracingproducts.com or elsewhere, extend the oil pickup. Buy a Forrester intake because it flips easily, or get a Magnus one already in RWD format, or custom make one. Please dont do that $h!t I see some dudes doing by cutting the stock intake throttle body flange off and rewelding it on the other side, thats so ghetto...lol, and very restrictive. Get a top mount exhaust manifold made, or like my buddy did in his Starion:buy a cheap ebay stainless one, cut the flange off flip it and reweld it with support brackets(it came out pretty good). The dudes at www.shearerfabrications.com can also custom make you something too and they're also pretty knowledgeable. Also get the bushur alternator relocation kit tho move the alternator to the intake side( I also think another company sells one for cheaper). Anything else I forgot??. Damn...I should be charging you guys...lol.
Last edited by 4G63FD; 01-27-07 at 02:07 AM.