Yes I am making the motor and trans mounts

 

could u take pics cause i will be doing the same thing just wanted to see how u be doing them

 

Of course, right now I have the motor mounts mocked up, will be making the real ones real soon. I'm starting the trans bracket tomorrow

 

This was simple and worked great.




I later went back and notched it for exhaust clearance.

 

It's reasons like this that made me use a GTE valve cover on NA-T GE setup.



^.^

Unfortunately, I can't afford to go stand-alone, and get rid of that dreaded distributor. >_<




Tell you what though, that 2J looks like it sits a helluva lot lower in an FC than in any FD I've ever seen, including my own.

...Lucky. hehe

 

so here is my mock up, i will be goin in this direction, then once the main mounts (like shown) are actually in and welded not just this machineable plastic, i will be making bracing from the stock mazda motor mount location and running it to some of the rear bolt holes so that this thing will be braced like crazy. i found that the aristo mounts stick to far out and decided i would go with the mounts off of a na 2j out of a sc300. dont worry about the nasty no paint areas as once its all mounted its coming back out and my bay will be painted

oh yeah, my mounts are going to be solid, i cant have any movement as the motor is about .25in off the rack if that.

 

[QUOTE=vxturboxv;10364852]This was simple and worked great.

so you bolted to the frame rails then? i might just have to go that route, you mind if i ask what your center point was?

 

[QUOTE=rotary-guy;10365247]

Something like this would work well...


http://s955.photobucket.com/albums/a...l-dsmount2.jpg

 

[QUOTE=vxturboxv;10365357]Dude the notch back with the 2j is win, thanks for the pics of the mount set up.

 

so werid seeing piston in a 7, good luck with your work and make us a vid

 

yet another example of motor mount/plates. I'll be doing something similar to this using my existing pedestal mounts and k-member. Good enough for 7's and well over 1000hp with those 2 little bolts, good enough for me...



[img]http://www.oke020.com/jt/store/images/2753.jpgp/img]

 

My 2JZ mounts.

The disk-shaped object is a hard rubber that will help reduce engine vibrations. That is the kind of setup I'd recommend for you as well.

 

Hockey pucks work well for that. Looks good! Almost looks like the factory FB rx-7 mount could be used in that setup.




You all using the sc300/supra rear sump pans?

 

thanks for the suggestion yoshi.
vxturboxv, yes im using the supra rear sump pan.

i took a crap ton of meausrements so tomorrow im going to get the frame of my trans mount busted out then go from there.

 

Hey man I am looking for a 1990 t2 afftermarket fuel rail.

 

Looking good man. How long until she's on the road?

 

Thanks, I'm trying for spring/summer of 2011, not rushing it, only have 2 parts left to buy (intake manifold and my standalone) then the rest Is simple fab.

Got my trans mount made and mounted, hardest part was drilling into the frame cause the floor pan is a bitch and my drill hits it. And for those who think a 2j is to tall, your wrong...way wrong, figured id do a test fit with the hood and I DO NOT have to do any cutting of my tII hood. Keep in mind that my subframe is lowered 1inch, and to counter act the bumpsteer I have adjustable tie rod endlinks. Now to finish my motor mounts and put the car back on the ground

 

How is the oil pan clearance to the ground?

 

The pan doesn't sit lower than the sub frame so not bad, ill get some measurements once the car is back on the ground, from what I can tell is my old 302'd fc's pan sat lower and had no issues

 

so, with an fc. is it better to run the rear sump versus the front sump because of clearence issues?



also, on another note, i went to the track yesterday, and rode in my buddies 1j s13 for the first time, pushin approx 450 to the wheels. and it was an amaaaazing setup, it sold me on getting one in the first couple of runs! lolol the jzx motor family is nothing short of amazing... and your ***** gunna go ffffaaasssst =)

 

Yes the rear sump let's you go lower, other wise the front sump would be right on top of the subframe and steering rack so you would have to have it higher to clear.

Today I decided I'm not goin to use the stock aluminum motor mount pedistals, but rather the plate and tube style and mount to the stock motor mount hole locations in the subframe. Should only take me a day or so once I go back to work.

 

mocked up and tacked

 

I'm impressed. That's pretty cool!

 

welded up my motor mounts today, put the car back on the ground to give it a quick look over and adjust my tie rods. im sure ill be changing the mount set up at least one more time but for now this will do. i also started playing around with where i would like my turbo to sit and i think i found where i like it so now its time to start making the manifold. im also going to start tearing into the wiring harness this week. with it now all mounted i want it done so damn bad

oh and for those wanting to know the ground to oil pan clearance it is 6.5ish in and the subframe is about 5.75-6in so i have plenty of room.

 

could u take a pic of under the car? is the 154 longer than the rotary trans?