1jz / w58 fc
 

Hey guys, I know there's some info here and there on this swap but not too much. The most thorough I've found is Sketch HS' thread where he swapped a 1JGTE into an S4 T2.

Anyway, I know how frustrating it can be when you're trying to piece together information about a swap before you commit so I'll try my very best to illustrate the process from beginning to end. I started out with an S5 GXL Chassis I picked up for $100 bones.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g/leftside.jpg

Me and my papa immediately got to work, getting rid of all the stock interior and factory wiring.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...arding/fc1.jpg

After a bunch of dry ice, wire brushing, and primer I ended up with this

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ing/dash23.jpg

Scored the black dash for $25 on a rainy day at pick-a-part and a friend of mine made the aluminum plates to mount the gauges and switches. The gauges are all stuff I had previous builds so that's why they're all different haha.

The switches are wired independent and have their own relays, I chose to do this to eliminate any potential problems with stock wiring. Which I've had more then my fair share of in the past.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ng/relays1.jpg

At this point the car is wired, I am waiting on my friend to come by on sunday and fabricate the rest of the motor mounts. It's going to be solid mounted. After that I need to get power steering lines, a clutch line and a drive shaft made. I will document all of that. I will also grab pics then, lately I've been so busy working on it I haven't stopped to take any.

This past week myself and a friend installed Parts Shop Max pro coilovers, and I converted the windows to manual. I just want the damn engine in it already haha. Stay tuned :icon_tup:

Almost there

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ing/engine.jpg

Good start, looking forward to seeing this thing running!

Thanks buddy :icon_tup:

As of now waiting on some Circuit Sports Polyurethane mounts to get here. I was going to have it solid mounted but after talking with a few people, that isn't the best idea for what I would like. So it's going to be a modified pedestal mount, similar to most stockers including FC's.

Here's the mounts I purchased

http://www.mysr20.com/media/catalog/...-0134-HC_6.jpg

Ran me about $87 shipped. And the plan is to mount them like this, note that the dimension is inaccurate, this is just to illustrate how the poly bushing will be utilized.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ginemounts.png

Once that's finished I'll be able to button things up, commit the engine harness and ecu to the chassis and take a bunch of photos.

On a scale of 1-10 for difficulty in this swap so far I'd say it's about a 6. It's fairly easy if you can weld or fabricate your own pieces but otherwise you WILL need someone to handle that. I believe Xcesive motorsports is working on an adapter mount to make this a bolt on affair, but I am impatient :lol:

Will update ASAFP

Dane

K so I'm getting my mounts made by Martin at Parts Shop Max, poweredbymax.net so the car will be on hold for a bit longer. Trust me, I'm beyond excited to get this thing going but one thing you never skimp out on is quality fabrication. Especially when it comes to putting a much heavier engine in. It looks like about piston number 1 and half of number 2 stick out forward of the steering rack. I'll get some for sure measurements but the motor sits surprisingly low and back when it's in the ideal spot. We hammered the firewall crease down for more clearance, which isn't necessary but certainly won't hurt. SUGOI!!!!!!!!!!

Subscribed bro, piecing this project together myself actually. why didn't you go r154 if you mind me asking

I had the w58 from my previous plan to turn my sc400 into a manual trans set up. The w58 I have came from an mkIV supra which has the longer tripod mounted shifter which puts the shifter in the stock fc location, plus the w58 can handle around decent power to begin with so I figured I'd deal with it for now. Honestly if I blow this I'm not going r154, I'm gonna run a z33 6 speed box. I have a friend who has a built sc drift car and ran 450rwhp with his w58 for a few years so I'm confident with the proper preventative maintenance this thing will do just fine.

Lol well atleast you had a tranny sitting around. I hear they stick up to over 450whp too but JUST MATTERS HOW YOUR DRIVING IT...those 58s have good stories and bad stories just like anything else. I would it if i had one. Im coming from the clublexus/supraforums threads lol. I had a mk3 and sold it, then a sc300 and got bored of the auto.. now im on to an fc lol. can't wait to see this bad boy in action, i too was looking at sketch's build thread and though its good there are some more parts i would just want to know.

I know exactly what you mean dude. I want to get some more progress going and once things are solid I will document the shit out of it.

Dang man now im considering just buying a blown w58 and rebuilding that lol so I dont have to go the route of an expensively over priced r154. Are you going single or stock twins? And have you thought as far as to what radiator your gonna get? Soarer or Rx7. I did my buddies radiator yesterday night and he let mehave his old one im gonna test fit it to see if ill even be able to get some kind of fitment with fabrication..because once again the radiator part wasnt covered in sketches build thread...he probably forgot though no biggie lol

Word around the campfire is you can strengthen a W58 by using steel shims instead of aluminum. Keep any eye on pick a part man, I've seen atleast 4 R154's in the J yard this year. And vegas from what I remember had a lot more cars in their yard then the ones I go to down here.

I have an FC radiator with a nissan quest fan that I'd like to run. It's a stock rad but I just want to use to get the brackets and bash bar fabricated and then get a nice koyo or something. I'm not sure how the mounts are going to go, V mount, normal or whatever. I'm going to leave it up to my fabricator since either way it's probably going to cost me a lot.

Lol makes me want a w58 now.. I dont want to have to buy that 350 adapter for the shifter to be extended.Yeah honestly I was gonna go to pic a part but I found someone selling all four crown vic wheels forr 100 so I checked that out instead

So how exactly are you doing your motor mounts?

I think maybe with some work a datsun 260z rad will work.

Omg I love this!! I had a 1jz SC and that thing pulled. I can only imagine what it would be like on a FC.

cant wait to see how this come out thinking about doing a similar build

Thanks dudes! I'm still waiting on room to clear up in my local fab shop so they can get my car in. I'm not sure when it's going to happen but I've been talking with Xcessive motorsports and they said in about 4 weeks (tentatively) they would have mounts made to put a 1JZ-GTE Non-VVTI in an FC. They just finished making them for S13's and I was told FC was next...so if my shop can't do it soon I'll probably buy the mounts and go from there. Trust me this is serioulsy what's holding me back right now. Can't commit the wiring without the engine in it's final place, can't get exhaust made, can't do intercooler piping etc. There's a lot riding on having the motor mounts haha.

Oh lol, hopefully they aren't as much as the other option 1200 bucks lol..eff that.
well i guess im waiting too cause im following you lol. So if you mess up i mess up.. -__- lol jk. Im saving for the motorset actually i bought a holset hx40. gonna go single

subbbb'd

yota makes the best motors :)

Nice!

Useless update #234

Waiting around for the shop to open up space is killing me. So my papa and myself purchased a welder and have been dicking around with it. Turns out we're not half bad. I trust myself enough to do the mounts but I spoke with Rich at Xcessive manufacturing and helped him secure a rear sump oil pan and now fc mounts are the works. I'm just going to wait and purchase them through him, mounts are typically under $100 not including trans mounts or the urethane if you choose not to run the stockers. I'm not exactly sure how he plans to set it up but he just released the kit for S chassis and it's rad. He can accommodate both R154's and W58's.

Anyway we made this sweet ass bench to weld shit on

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ding/bench.jpg

I'll update this when he updates me. Once the motor is in, I'll get measurements for the driveshaft, clutch slave and power steering lines, write up the wiring and show you how I'm going to plumb the front end. Since I cut a bunch of the steel out (this car was wrecked before apparently) I'm going to have to start from scratch anyway so might as well run a V-Mount. I'll post a few pics about how the front end was tweaked and what we did about it.

Alright, I didn't take any before pics but basically none of the front body panels would line up. So we decide to either cut the whole front from the struts off forward and do a tubular front end or just see what we could do with minimal cost. Being that the car was wrecked and I'm having a hard time getting a hold of the title we opted to just cut some stuff away and see what we could do. We put a lot of effort to get shit looking like it should from the factory haha. There's still issues but given how much the frame rail was pushed to the side I think we made due. The car was struck on the front drivers side hard enough to shift the frame and frame rails over about 1/4''.

We cut out the flimsy sheet metal in front hat was way out of line and at this point useless. Here is the aftermath

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ding/fc3-3.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ding/fc2-1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...harding/Fc.jpg

The V mount should be fun to do with all that new found room.

Anywho, tried to put the body panels on and that's when we realized that the pinch weld that goes along the inside of fenders was preventing any sort of panel alignment. Since the rails shifted, so did the pinch weld. We decided to cut the seam down and grind it flat. It's a structural piece so I'll need to stitch weld it where we cut it, for now it's not a concern though.

Once all the seam was shaved flat we were able to align the fenders and hood squarely ( as squarely as we could) to the front bumper.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...leftfender.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ghtfender1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../fcfront-2.jpg

Ton of work on something that shouldn't have to be done in the first place haha, oh well though. It's a learning experience. Also since we removed the core support and all that jazz, we're going to run a crash bar. Don't want to make the crash bar super solid so that if it gets hit it will tweak the frame (anymore then it already is). Sorta want the crash bar to absorb impact and give out. So ideally we'll drill a few holes in struts that connect the bar to the plates that bolt it to the car. And probably use softer grade hardware so they might shear before the energy transfers.

That'll do it for useless update #324, hopefully I will have some engine related news soon.

Lol damn dangerous nice man.. Ive been waiting for your thread to have some updates. It's all good about the waiting though just keep it up though my man

$100 bucks for weld on polyurethane mounts? keeping my eye on this thread.

Keep it up my man!

Still waiting on word from Xcessive. I feel like if it doesn't go down in 2 weeks I'm going to just make my owns.

N E WAY

Made this homo-spec sparco civic seat mount fit the fc. It was actually a lot of work just to maintain the slider on the seat mount. Next time I'm just gonna buy some Nagisa super low's or something.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g/fc3sseat.jpg

Looks so much cleaner now lol

The w58 should do well here since the car doesn't weigh much...I used to have an turbo'd sc300 manual which I upgraded to the r154 pushing high 400's. The 240 kids seem to have success with this tranny as well because of the weight. I would still be careful with shifts though. Good luck with the build.

Any updates? Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

Sorry to have left you hanging dudes, I'm in Fresno for work for atleast another few weeks. After I get home, first thing I'm gonna do is get cracking.

Cherish the build and experience with your father, that's something that will stay with you forever. I'm enjoying this build, keep it up.

Thanks for the kind words :)

Well guys, since xcessive stopped answering me and my fabricator bro is in J land for another week I took the internets and look what I found

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../1jzfcshit.jpg

It's made by K's racing, a shop out of thailand. Dude makes a lot of stuff involving toyota swaps and especially stuff for the fd. Based on the price of this piece though I'm debating, it doesn't look as good as it could be and on the 1J, the last stud on the driverside holds this metal fuel line with a bend in it and leads to the fuel rail. I'm assuming he just used a short block to mock it up but I'll have to ask. This kit runs $430 shipped. I like it and I don't haha. I like that I can pull the trigger and get this and probably get the motor in asap but I'm just not sold on what I see just yet. When my fab guy gets back I'll ask him what he thinks, if he can do better (probably cheaper too) then I'll just get a one off set made but if he thinks these are good to go well then I'll bite the bullet and test these out. If they're any good. I might jig them and try to improve on my own set but we shall see. Stay tuned, I'd like to have this thing shredding tires in time for all star bash this october.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...g/photo-21.jpg

Hood clearance for reference, some stuff is going to need to be trimmed. This is the motor shimmed up with minimal clearances. I'm still waiting on that mount kit which could make it stick out more.

Stay away from that Thailand garbage.
I bought some mounts from him a couple years ago and it was literally some scrap steel they found from a mill cut out with a oxy-cet torch.

Interested in pics of the oil pan when setup.

I thought the 1J, or even 2J, fit in an FC under the stock hood? Do you have that bad boy as low as it will sit?

Also, I'd just take the money for that kit and put it towards a MIG welder. You will use it about 100 billion more times in your life, and with a little practice you can just make your own mount bracket.

Check the reviews on this: http://www.eastwood.com/review/produ.../category/690/

The FC is great because you don't need to re-engineer the whole damn subframe to put in a JZ motor. Just make some brackets.

I have a MIG bud and I'll be using it very soon :)

After reading what you guys said I immediately decided to go with my original feeling and just do the mounts custom. Although that guys picture was useful for ideas and stuff. I really appreciate the heads up on the lack of craftsmanship, who knows how much time and obviously money I've saved. Got one mount done today, doing the drivers side on monday or tuesday. I will post pictures up when they're done.

CKxx, the engine is sitting damn near on the steering rack, there is minimal clearance the way we set it up. Possibly removing the hood skeleton could make it clear.

Soooo me and my papa finished the physical mock up of the mounts that we made out of aluminum (for clearance and fitment refining). He's been busy with the fishing season so I get to see this car like once every 2 weeks. This week they are getting dimensioned and put into solidworks and then one of the machinists at his work is going to make them for us. The only thing that worries me is these mounts will only be as good as we made the mock ups haha...so they could come out super nice looking and well built but if our fitment was off then a lot of time and effort will have been wasted. IF they come out rad I'll see what I can do about getting a copy of the solid works so you guys can download it and take it to your local fabricator.

Aside from that I've been getting together other nonsense, need to replace all the rear wheel studs, dtss eliminators, wheel bearings and get the differential welded for now. Diff isn't permanent but I don't want to shake this thing down with an open diff. Been thinking about what sort of configuration to run the V-mount in as well...any idea what radiator I might use? I see some dudes like to use the FD rad sometimes.

I used the FD rad, and flipped it upside down for my v-mount... the lower (was the upper) hose outlet hangs a little low. I actually ended up cutting the pipe off, blocked it, and came out the side of the end tank with it...saved about 1.5 inches of clearance.

I did that because I went off track once, and coming back on, cheese grated the silicone connector on the blacktop and pissed my coolant out.

Can't wait to see more updates. Plan on doing this to my fc.

planning on the same swap as well, definitely keep us updated and try to make some plans for the motor/trans mounts!

Mind sending me some pictures of those mounts if you get them?
I am considering buying a set just to see where they set the motor.

Once my head is built and th400 adapter parts crap is ordered, im ready to throw it in my GTUs with a 6266 :nod:

Sorry guys, we put a bunch of time into the mounts and we weren't happy with how they came out...this is coming from zero engineering background. I am currently waiting for the shop to have space... kinda bums me out if I went rotary I'd be killing shit with this thing already. I hope it's worth the wait. As promised though I will keep you updated. The shop might jig the mounts too. I will def relay the information when it becomes available.

Well after $500 and two days in the shop I have this

Attachment 692883
Attachment 692884

And I picked up the driveshaft today which ran me $375 because it had to be made from scratch.

I'm in the process of buttoning things up, in the mean time if you have any questions feel free to send them my way. At this point it should be fairly clear that the engine and trans mounts will need to be fabricated. The radiator and fans are for an SR20DET

can you snap a pic of your motor mounts? i have a 1jz in my garage waiting to do this swap if the rotary blows.

You bet buddy, sorry for the late response.

Attachment 692541

Attachment 692542

Attachment 692543

Attachment 692544

Attachment 692545

clean project cant wait to see if finished

You gonna have anymore mounts made?
I wouldnt mind some :D

These were pretty expensive...if you're serious about the swap I would talk to your local fabricator and see what direction they'd like to go and go from there.


I'm going to start a cost analysis pretty soon...if this thing is close to what an LS swap costs I'm gonna be a little bummed. At least the J sounds cooler I guess?

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_mb...dlk5o1_500.gif

Some food for thought while I'm trying to get this damn thing wired up

1JZ GTE weight 478.4 lbs

S5 13BT weight 365 lbs

(Dressed long blocks)

Should have this thing started tomorrow, will update.

Looking like my ECU might be toast. Have everything wired up, power where it needs to be and she just cranks and cranks. Replaced a host of sensors. Might have to pull the trigger on a new ECU in a few days if nothing works out.

It runs!

Attachment 688088

Okay so he's the meat and potatoes of this swap....after you have it all mounted up, how to get it running. The 1J will run without exhaust/intake and intercooler piping. You can start this motor on a pallet if you really wanted to.

My engine set came from a Toyota Soarer (US Spec is Lexus SC300). You're going to want this engine set because it's rear sump.

The ECU pinout is as follows, supply 12volts+ to the 4 pins on the right, and ground the 2 highlighted pins on the left. This is just to get the motor running, if you wish to integrate it into your existing chassis wiring, you will need to do the appropriate translation. Mine is wired to a switch panel and a junction block where it receives the 12volts. I will be happy to diagram that if anyone is interested in doing so.

Attachment 688044

***It turned out my ignitor was toast and my fuel lines were on backwards

After that was solved the car fired right up and idled. I have a checklist for troubleshooting that I used when I wasn't able to start the car, so if you find yourself stuck check these items:

1.Check Crank Position Sensor (OHM) and continuity from it's wiring to the ECU
2. Check Crank Position Sensor trigger wheel (Inside timing cover, behind crank) sometimes they can slip off if the motor is banged around)
3. Check Cam Position Sensor (Next to intake manifold, in between injectors)
4. Check ECU ( I had to send mine out to someone since no one runs a Non-VVTI Soarer 1JZ by me)
5. Check Ignitor (Supra TT are the same as well as V6 Avalons)

If at that point still no dice, check your harness plugs for continuity and ensure you have power and grounds where the diagram says it needs it. Double check fuel lines, I feel like a big idiot for messing that up.