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Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration

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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 06:19 PM
  #76  
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Yeah I was wondering if you might also regret that finish or is it that your hi def camera picking up on shadow?

Perhaps use a 3m clean and strip disc then put a skim of putty or filler over it, then a hi build primer surfacer .. the eastwood one is very good then block it back.
Attached Thumbnails Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131209.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131514.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131536.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131601.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131701.jpg  

Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131733.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131758.jpg   Video Blog - 1974 1976 Mazda RX3 Restoration-forumrunner_20141104_131827.jpg  
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 06:21 PM
  #77  
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Gah sorry about the multi photos it was saying error application crashed but added them anyway. Anyhow you get the idea
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 08:39 PM
  #78  
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Did you put clear powder over that chrome powder on the light? It's not a big thing for the light, but chrome powder will oxidize and dull over time without a clear coat. I always clear any metallic powder.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:11 PM
  #79  
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Thanks Chino!

Project - This is great advice, thank you so much. As for the frame rail - its good enough for me and for what this rebuild is - and much better than it was. I hope I don't alienate anyone here but this learning experience is practice for something bigger. It's a Mazda RX3. I haven't picked my next car yet but it'll be something that carries heavier resale value than our beloved rotaries. So I have drawn the line much lower than many here may have. Along the way I discover methods, techniques, tolerances, etc from people like you and my YouTube subscribers. And I'm loving it all. I'm also very appreciative of the process you explained for restoring plastic. That's great guidance there man. THX.

jaja - Noted - yeah, that rail in your photos looks puss. When I get down to doing my own body work (perhaps next project) I'll be way more picky and thorough.

KC - um, no. And good call. I've been in touch with Lenny at powderbythepound.com and he explained the same thing to me some time ago. I had already coated the light and a couple other things to be seen soon in future vids. It's too late for those items. But I've got it now so I can clear coat all future projects. He also enlightened me on hitting things with a second coat - particularly when you eye areas with thin spots, or missed spots. Just keep timing in mind and reapply while still tacky. Not immediately out of the oven but long before cured.

Thanks for the input guys!!
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Old Nov 15, 2014 | 04:57 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by riverseine
KC - um, no. And good call. I've been in touch with Lenny at powderbythepound.com and he explained the same thing to me some time ago. I had already coated the light and a couple other things to be seen soon in future vids. It's too late for those items. But I've got it now so I can clear coat all future projects. He also enlightened me on hitting things with a second coat - particularly when you eye areas with thin spots, or missed spots. Just keep timing in mind and reapply while still tacky. Not immediately out of the oven but long before cured.
The process he's referring to is called Hot Flocking. I've put second coats on lots of pieces when needed. I first like to let the part cool completely and see if a second coat will stick. The important part with second coats is getting a good ground. If I'm not having luck I'll stick the part in the over for 5-10 minutes at 200 degrees. Powder coating in general is a learned skill to get it right.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:53 AM
  #81  
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So you let yours cool completely? Then return to oven before another coat?
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:08 PM
  #82  
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Leaf springs, axles, bushings, and some misc rear suspension parts...

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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 09:45 AM
  #83  
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Great work, amber / clear, on my old 808 / rx3 i put the clear to the inside and the amber on the out side [ swap left to right and right to left ] not factory but i think it looks better to have the the flash of the turn signal as close to the edge.
I found your washer in queensland and its in the mail eventho im in victoria australia
ha ha.
you can try a socket and hammer insted of a drill to cut the bolt holes in the gasket paper.
keep up the good work
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Old Dec 30, 2014 | 09:08 PM
  #84  
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Thanks rxeven. YouTuber TimmiE suggested hollow punch for the gasket holes. I actually have a set but didn't think of it. That would have been simple. Next time..
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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 11:44 PM
  #85  
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Rear End goes in...

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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 12:00 AM
  #86  
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cool videos love the detail keep up the fine work.
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Old Feb 17, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #87  
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Thanks. Much appreciated.
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Old Feb 18, 2015 | 08:40 PM
  #88  
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Captivated by your videos. Detail work is exceptional. So, any timeline for finishing the project? Will 2015 be the year? Once finished, please promise us that you'll bring the final completed project to Sevenstock in Fontana!!
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Old Apr 11, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #89  
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Awesome build thread mate! saw it complete... In for more updates.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 01:50 AM
  #90  
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RCCAZ - I'm shooting for Labor Day weekend 2016 (that's 1st Monday of Sept in USA). I'm a bit behind on a lot of things so I've got to kick it up a notch if I'm to meet that goal.

Definitely take to 7Stock. I almost went this year as I have never been. I had the time off but opted to work on the car that weekend instead. Thanks for the kind words about the video. Much appreciated.

TypeRX - Thanks for watching. Another video coming very soon. Mostly done editing just gotta add my "question of the day" segment and a 1st ever "gift link" segment. Aside from that Rear Brakes coming soon.
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 08:16 PM
  #91  
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Got the rear brakes installed.
Learned a few things along the way.
I think Jesus Christ himself paid me a visit. He's even got the halo & glow above his head.

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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 09:17 AM
  #92  
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Great update man! Incredible attention to details...

Hahaha Jesus visit on the video lol

those vids need the tag as Motivational Restoring Videos

Keep the good progress up man!
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Old May 26, 2015 | 03:22 AM
  #93  
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Installing rear shocks should have been easy. Turned out to be a slightly bumpy road.

Also, what porting to go with for a 12A non-turbo running a modified Nikki?

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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 11:26 AM
  #94  
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Assembling the front struts...
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Old Jul 22, 2015 | 10:33 PM
  #95  
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Getting the front suspension re-assembled (Part 1).

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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 05:46 AM
  #96  
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Woo more updates. I gave my coolant and washer bottles a wash by hand and then chucked them in the dishwasher which cleaned them up pretty well. Although mine aren't so brown! Could be worth a shot if you can get away with it!
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Old Jul 23, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by JSmall
Woo more updates. I gave my coolant and washer bottles a wash by hand and then chucked them in the dishwasher which cleaned them up pretty well. Although mine aren't so brown! Could be worth a shot if you can get away with it!
I'll give that a go JSmall.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 02:01 AM
  #98  
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Bolting up the steering linkage, brake calipers, and the torque for the spindle nut.

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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 08:19 PM
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Could you tell us how much it was to get your pitman arm rebuilt?
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 11:29 PM
  #100  
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Regarding Rare Parts in Stockton, CA ...

I was expecting to pay $100 for the rebuild of the Pitman Arm. The guy called and said after inspection and testing the arm was tight with the socket looking like new. He recommended a new rubber, lubrication, and paint. For $30 it was mailed back looking like new.

In addition to rebuilding, if your parts are not rebuildable they can forge new parts (tie rods, idler or pitman, etc).
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