Southernrazed

Hey Guys/ and gals...my names drew.. im new to this forum i dont own a rx-7 but i do own a 91 b2200 with rx-7 runnin gear from the 91 JDM 13-b Turbo all the way back to the LSD Irs...anyways heres some old pics...i will have many questions in the months to come...

still some work to do on the rear.. like shockbounts and that one brace thing that ties in the subframe..but u get the idea!

Southernrazed

well that diddnt work so here is the link

http://mazdabscene.com/forums/garage...vehicle&CID=23

Dom_C

that's an awesome looking setup, that will be a bad *** truck man.

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

thats sweet.

Southernrazed

oh here are the questions i have bene pondering over the winter.....is there a way to prime the oiling system?....can i get rid of that ugly *** air pump...what psi does it put out can i turn it into an engine drivencompressor for my airride setup?...the driveshafts according to mazda are not rebuildable on car...but i heard somintgabout jeep u joints can anybody confirm this?......what is a good break in procedure for this engine. what are the most prone to breaking parts on this engine?....is a Turbo II a twin turbo?...my engine is a 1991 JDM Model S-5 model apparently..is there anyway to varifiy this so when im buying parts i dont end up with the wrong stuff...Thanks any info is app.

tr4c3

The motor is a 13b-t single turbo. S5 was the fc model from 89-91.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

If you're getting a Jspec engine there is no "break in" neccesary as it should have at least 40k on it already. However it might be prudent to preform a "break down" and replace any worn seals so you don't end up w/ an unfortunate surprise.

As far as "what breaks" ...be very aware of engine temps. If you have the S5 motor the temp gauge shouldn't go above halfway, if it does pull over immeadiately. Since there are only really 3 moving components rotaries don't tend to break parts, instead seals tend to fail (more often than not because of excessive heat or boost)

Sorry, can't help you w/ the air pump, as that was the first thing to leave my car.

88turbotime

nice looking orgy you got there.

Southernrazed

hahah more like Trippinballs....Id go into detailbut im new here im not shure if the Mods wud like it ...

Southernrazed

when you say 1/2 way on the temp guage wat would that be in degrees... im running all aftermarket guages....oh yea ..what is stock boost..and how far can i boost safely with nothing more than a High flow inline fuelpump and a FCD

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

hey drew!

where in canada are you from!

crazy work done to that pickup, can't wait to see the end result

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

Uh oh... I see an empty plastic bag... I wonder what was in that.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

wonder if their grillin..
( AKA shrooming.) or their just hella blazed.

fluffysheap

wow quite a setup, especially the RX-7 rear suspension into a truck...

Yes the driveshaft u-joints are "not rebuildable" but mazdatrix.com knows how to rebuild them anyway. But, how can you not be using a custom driveshaft in a truck?

The S5 (89-91) uses one not-particularly-big turbo with about 8lbs boost/200HP stock.

The stock gauge is not linearized and basically has three positions: Cold, normal, too late. But unless you transplanted the gauge cluster too this won't matter much. You want temp to be around 170-180. Just use a decent radiator + oil cooler and a Mazda stock thermostat and you will be fine.

You can't prime the oiling system but you don't really need to. In extremely cold weather I sometimes crank with ignition disabled for a while to get things moving. This is only in sub zero temps. The rest of the time... not a big deal.

The air pump only puts out a few psi, its basically a fan, not a compressor. You only need it to supply air to the catalytic converter. If you don't have that then you might as well take it off, or you can just leave it, it doesn't hurt anything.

With upgraded fuel pump/FPR, ECU upgrade and intercooler you can probably boost up 10-12 PSI. You're pushing the limits of the stock turbo. I recommend you get a real ECU upgrade instead of a cheap FCD - something like an Apexi Power FC, not that that's the only option, but be sure to get something good quality.

Most of the differences between the S4 and S5 engine are internal. You can tell by looking at the water pump or the oil metering pump but it's hard to explain the differences without pics. I never had an S4 so I can't explain it too well, someone else probably can though.

Southernrazed

thanks man yea u ansered allot of my q's...i am gonna run a custom driveshaft. but i would prefer to use stock mazda yolks if i can cuz i already have em and if i go with moser parts it tacks 200 bucks to the price of the driveshaft....if they cut up my stock one and lengthen it its allot cheaper... yea i have an alluminum rad and stock rx7 oil cooler... the reason for wanting to prime the oiling system is that the engine has sat for about a year now i guess i could squirt a lil tranny fluid into the combustion chambers and spin it by hand for a while....so yank the air pump.....i will use the ac compressor as my air ride pump..... for those of you who put a front mount intercooler on how did you notice throttle responce.. did it change? i would think it wouldent be quite as tight... on an s5 should i have a mechanicly actuated metering oil pump or a electonic one?

mirabile

Real nice. Keep the pictures comin

fluffysheap

S5 has the electronic OMP.

The combustion chambers aren't really what would benefit from prelube, its more for bearings. In your case I'd recommend just pulling the engine fuse and cranking for 20-30 seconds, that will lubricate everything that needs it. The combustion chambers don't get or need much lubrication in the first place and the oil from the OMP will get there pretty quick. But it won't hurt you to pour a little oil in there anyway.

Conventional wisdom is to use ATF but people are starting to recommend light motor oil now instead because it doesn't dissolve as much carbon, there have been reports of ATF causing oil seal deterioration (or more likely IMO exposing deterioration that was already there). If your motor is pretty fresh (under 100K as most JDM motors are) then it's probably not a big deal either way.

Southernrazed

thanks man...ive always used atf as assembly lube and general lubrication around the shop dunno why thats just the way i was taught... ill start using light oil...so how much emmisions crap can i take of of this wankel?