Swedish based FA3TS Old School rotary 1300 -75
09-17-12, 04:30 PM
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Swedish based FA3TS Old School rotary 1300 -75
I'll also create a little thread...
I have a few little different cars in collection, but this deals with my latest "chapter".
Harry, yes the name is given from the past owner, and it is a Mazda FA3TS 1300 from 1975.
In this version, the car did have a steam engine, sorry I meant a piston engine.
Mazda also earlier produced the 1300 model with the a Rotary, but then called them R100.
I bought it with a purpose to use it as a winter ride, but the engine broke down straight away.
So at the moment I'm transfering the rotary from my RX7 from -83 to this little sweet thing.
Here is a few pictures of it from the same day in October when I bought it...
Harry was originally yellow, and hopefully in the future he will regain his former glory.
I do want to respray him a little more sharp yellow than the original dull color. Mora about this later...
As I ended up with a broken car, I took it to my garage day one.
I ripped out the engine and most of the parts at the front straight away. This is how it did look emty.
Most of these cars are already gone because of the rust.
Only 47 are left in Sweden, and that is from 1971 -1977 years models.
A guess is that only about 8 to 10 still are in traffic in Sweden.
This car is not so bad at this issue, but there is a little to repair.
The mount surface (what is it called in English?) for the fender is one of them...
And also the fenders (front wings) need to be changed!
The front beam above the crossmember is also rusty.
Side sills and doors is also a mess...
But i must admit that the rest lookes realy good.
Next step where to clean the engine bay,
front and inner side of the fenders from old paint and rust.
I have a few little different cars in collection, but this deals with my latest "chapter".
Harry, yes the name is given from the past owner, and it is a Mazda FA3TS 1300 from 1975.
In this version, the car did have a steam engine, sorry I meant a piston engine.
Mazda also earlier produced the 1300 model with the a Rotary, but then called them R100.
I bought it with a purpose to use it as a winter ride, but the engine broke down straight away.
So at the moment I'm transfering the rotary from my RX7 from -83 to this little sweet thing.
Here is a few pictures of it from the same day in October when I bought it...
Harry was originally yellow, and hopefully in the future he will regain his former glory.
I do want to respray him a little more sharp yellow than the original dull color. Mora about this later...
As I ended up with a broken car, I took it to my garage day one.
I ripped out the engine and most of the parts at the front straight away. This is how it did look emty.
Most of these cars are already gone because of the rust.
Only 47 are left in Sweden, and that is from 1971 -1977 years models.
A guess is that only about 8 to 10 still are in traffic in Sweden.
This car is not so bad at this issue, but there is a little to repair.
The mount surface (what is it called in English?) for the fender is one of them...
And also the fenders (front wings) need to be changed!
The front beam above the crossmember is also rusty.
Side sills and doors is also a mess...
But i must admit that the rest lookes realy good.
Next step where to clean the engine bay,
front and inner side of the fenders from old paint and rust.
09-17-12, 04:32 PM
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A few more pictures...
I have done some velding to strengthen the body.
Most of the rust in the engine bay are now fixed, and a lot of painting is also done.
I have topped the yellow paint with a couple of layers 2K epoxi clearcoat.
I have also done the same at the outside on both sides...
I must have been extremely lucky, I managed to find a new pair of JDM wings/fenders.
It must be like finding a needle in a haystack ...
I have also painted the inside of them
A few more things that are ready!
Hinges and the lock for the bonnet.
Steering components
I have done some velding to strengthen the body.
Most of the rust in the engine bay are now fixed, and a lot of painting is also done.
I have topped the yellow paint with a couple of layers 2K epoxi clearcoat.
I have also done the same at the outside on both sides...
I must have been extremely lucky, I managed to find a new pair of JDM wings/fenders.
It must be like finding a needle in a haystack ...
I have also painted the inside of them
A few more things that are ready!
Hinges and the lock for the bonnet.
Steering components
09-17-12, 04:33 PM
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I have also been lycky to find a pair of rear shock absorbers.
Classical Gabriel striders, adjustable in three different steps. Old school
Painted more parts...
Bought a new flywheel with clutch.
OS Giken twin disc, yes I do aim for a lot of power.
More about them plans later...
A few more things done.
I did mount the crossmember and some parts for the steering.
The reason for this where that I did need to find out how well the engine would fit. (or not??)
So back in to the car with engine and gearbox.
I am using a Turbo II gearbox for the strenght...
The engine at the moment is a standard 12A from my -83 spare Rx7.
One thing I found out is that I need more space for the clutch slave cylinder and arm.
I also had to do some adjustments on the oil pan.
Half an hour of grinding and the flange could be turnd 180 degrees.
The fit is not perfect, but nothing I can't fix with the MAG welder.
To get something else to think of, I started fixing the fan package for the heater.
And the wiper parts
[/img]
Classical Gabriel striders, adjustable in three different steps. Old school
Painted more parts...
Bought a new flywheel with clutch.
OS Giken twin disc, yes I do aim for a lot of power.
More about them plans later...
A few more things done.
I did mount the crossmember and some parts for the steering.
The reason for this where that I did need to find out how well the engine would fit. (or not??)
So back in to the car with engine and gearbox.
I am using a Turbo II gearbox for the strenght...
The engine at the moment is a standard 12A from my -83 spare Rx7.
One thing I found out is that I need more space for the clutch slave cylinder and arm.
I also had to do some adjustments on the oil pan.
Half an hour of grinding and the flange could be turnd 180 degrees.
The fit is not perfect, but nothing I can't fix with the MAG welder.
To get something else to think of, I started fixing the fan package for the heater.
And the wiper parts
[/img]
09-17-12, 04:35 PM
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I could not resist putting this parts back in the engine bay.
A little pic for there future, nice???
I'll put the battery at the rear of the car.
This is Harrys two horns tear apart and new painted.
The middle of the red parts will be black when I am all done.
And the rest are just sprayed with clearcote.
This is the backplate for the headcylinders for brakes and clutch.
Plus the rims for the horns.
As I wrote earlier, I do have plans for the engine...
It will be using a 13B 6-port end plates with T2 middle plate at the beginning, and I am going to bridgeport the socondary ports. This toghether with a semi PP should be enough... :-)
The side plates have the butterfly type of secondary port, but they are going to be removed.
The exhaust ports are also going to be a little bigger.
I do also plan to have the engine injected, I have actualla bought a intake (throttlebody) from a Suzuki GSX750R at a decent price, as this is going to be a low budget built car. 8 injectors built in from the beginning. :shock:
There is also a Microtech LT10 waiting in the garage for this little car...
My hope is to reach 300hp with my setup.
I do also have a couple of not complete Autorotor/SRM superchargers in one of my garage shelfs. hopefully I will be able to complete one of them for use in the future.
My future goal is 450rwhp...
Next step where to make space for the clutch release arm in the firewall.
I do hope I can leave the rest of the tunnel untouched...
I guess that I will have about three millimeters of clearence when I am done.
This is how it looked after some work with the hammer.
I also did some renovation of the main cylinders for brakes and clutch
Shootpenned, painted and polished...
I use Autosol for the polishing of plastic parts and the chrome on the car.
I don't know if you can find that down under??
I did the same with the windscreen washer and coolant expension tank...
A little pic for there future, nice???
I'll put the battery at the rear of the car.
This is Harrys two horns tear apart and new painted.
The middle of the red parts will be black when I am all done.
And the rest are just sprayed with clearcote.
This is the backplate for the headcylinders for brakes and clutch.
Plus the rims for the horns.
As I wrote earlier, I do have plans for the engine...
It will be using a 13B 6-port end plates with T2 middle plate at the beginning, and I am going to bridgeport the socondary ports. This toghether with a semi PP should be enough... :-)
The side plates have the butterfly type of secondary port, but they are going to be removed.
The exhaust ports are also going to be a little bigger.
I do also plan to have the engine injected, I have actualla bought a intake (throttlebody) from a Suzuki GSX750R at a decent price, as this is going to be a low budget built car. 8 injectors built in from the beginning. :shock:
There is also a Microtech LT10 waiting in the garage for this little car...
My hope is to reach 300hp with my setup.
I do also have a couple of not complete Autorotor/SRM superchargers in one of my garage shelfs. hopefully I will be able to complete one of them for use in the future.
My future goal is 450rwhp...
Next step where to make space for the clutch release arm in the firewall.
I do hope I can leave the rest of the tunnel untouched...
I guess that I will have about three millimeters of clearence when I am done.
This is how it looked after some work with the hammer.
I also did some renovation of the main cylinders for brakes and clutch
Shootpenned, painted and polished...
I use Autosol for the polishing of plastic parts and the chrome on the car.
I don't know if you can find that down under??
I did the same with the windscreen washer and coolant expension tank...
09-17-12, 04:35 PM
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Front bumber looked extremly bad, but I actually managed to save it.
It took me a few hours of hard work, but here is the result!
And a test on the car!
What I also done is to find a rear axle that will meet my goals for at least 500hp.
I bought a axle for a B1600 pickup on a scrap yard in the middle of Sweden.
The advantage of this is that it has the correct width from the beginning, it differs only 40mm hub to hub to the original.
Another fun thing is that there is a dust cover riveted to the hub when picking out the big 6-bolt drums.
Guess what rivetes pattern is? Well, 4x110 millimeters ... grin
You just have to drill the holes and bang in the new wheel bolts, jippie!
These axles are on 8", and the only thing I can find that would be just as strong is the Ford 9".
But, for shortening... To much hassle that I do not want to bother about now.
The B1600 drive shaft diameter is 30mm, a tough part...
Here is a pick with the B1600 to the left, and FA3TS on the right side.
Another thing that a like, it is a 30 splined axle. The same as on a never B2600 4wd diff. And now the best bit... B2600 diff fit straight into the B1600 housing!
4.44:1 ratio and limited slip :-)
This is a bad pick, but the difference is huge!
Sand blasted and painted
And finaly...
I found a person in Sweden with lots of brand new OEM parts.
The tank lid is the first thing mounted on the car so far!
Unfortunately, I will not be able to work on the car now for a few months. On Thursday I'm going to have surgery on a cervical vertebra that has been mean to me for years ...
But as soon as I feel fresh enough, I will be off into the garage again!
It took me a few hours of hard work, but here is the result!
And a test on the car!
What I also done is to find a rear axle that will meet my goals for at least 500hp.
I bought a axle for a B1600 pickup on a scrap yard in the middle of Sweden.
The advantage of this is that it has the correct width from the beginning, it differs only 40mm hub to hub to the original.
Another fun thing is that there is a dust cover riveted to the hub when picking out the big 6-bolt drums.
Guess what rivetes pattern is? Well, 4x110 millimeters ... grin
You just have to drill the holes and bang in the new wheel bolts, jippie!
These axles are on 8", and the only thing I can find that would be just as strong is the Ford 9".
But, for shortening... To much hassle that I do not want to bother about now.
The B1600 drive shaft diameter is 30mm, a tough part...
Here is a pick with the B1600 to the left, and FA3TS on the right side.
Another thing that a like, it is a 30 splined axle. The same as on a never B2600 4wd diff. And now the best bit... B2600 diff fit straight into the B1600 housing!
4.44:1 ratio and limited slip :-)
This is a bad pick, but the difference is huge!
Sand blasted and painted
And finaly...
I found a person in Sweden with lots of brand new OEM parts.
The tank lid is the first thing mounted on the car so far!
Unfortunately, I will not be able to work on the car now for a few months. On Thursday I'm going to have surgery on a cervical vertebra that has been mean to me for years ...
But as soon as I feel fresh enough, I will be off into the garage again!
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08-20-14, 05:39 AM
#8
troubleshooting sucks
this is lovely! i can see that you dont cut corners when doing things!
i really like the idea of an itb setup i can imagine it will sound mean as hell!
looking forward to the continuation of this project!
/Anthony
i really like the idea of an itb setup i can imagine it will sound mean as hell!
looking forward to the continuation of this project!
/Anthony
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