RX-3 Lowering Leaf Springs???
RX-3 Lowering Leaf Springs???
05-31-06, 06:04 PM
#2
The absolute best way to do it is purchase some custom made composite leaf springs from these guys:
http://flex-a-form.com/
They eliminate axel wrap on acceleration, eliminate rear wheel hop under braking, and greatly help lateral axel control due to their thick mono-leaf design. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
2nd best way is to take your leaf springs to a leaf spring shop and have them de-arched so they're perfectly flat. De-arching lowers the car AND eliminates rear roll understeer which is built into all leaf springs. And is caused when the rear eyelet in the leaf spring is higher than the front eyelet. Much better to Use traditional spring rates and sway bars to control under/over steer. Use longer rear shackels to bring ride height up to where you want it if needed. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
3rd best way, and most common, is ghetto blocks. Lowers the car, increases axel wrap, but is cheap and easy. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed. Some blocks come pre-angled to compensate for pinion change.
Worst way is to use shorter shackels, which is cheap, easy, but increases rear roll understeer, and makes the leaf rear eyelet change it's height very quickly under rear suspension compression. Which screws up the rear geometry and messes with rear suspension jacking, yuk. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
http://flex-a-form.com/
They eliminate axel wrap on acceleration, eliminate rear wheel hop under braking, and greatly help lateral axel control due to their thick mono-leaf design. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
2nd best way is to take your leaf springs to a leaf spring shop and have them de-arched so they're perfectly flat. De-arching lowers the car AND eliminates rear roll understeer which is built into all leaf springs. And is caused when the rear eyelet in the leaf spring is higher than the front eyelet. Much better to Use traditional spring rates and sway bars to control under/over steer. Use longer rear shackels to bring ride height up to where you want it if needed. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
3rd best way, and most common, is ghetto blocks. Lowers the car, increases axel wrap, but is cheap and easy. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed. Some blocks come pre-angled to compensate for pinion change.
Worst way is to use shorter shackels, which is cheap, easy, but increases rear roll understeer, and makes the leaf rear eyelet change it's height very quickly under rear suspension compression. Which screws up the rear geometry and messes with rear suspension jacking, yuk. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
Last edited by DriveFast7; 05-31-06 at 06:12 PM.
06-01-06, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DriveFast7
The absolute best way to do it is purchase some custom made composite leaf springs from these guys:
http://flex-a-form.com/
They eliminate axel wrap on acceleration, eliminate rear wheel hop under braking, and greatly help lateral axel control due to their thick mono-leaf design. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
2nd best way is to take your leaf springs to a leaf spring shop and have them de-arched so they're perfectly flat. De-arching lowers the car AND eliminates rear roll understeer which is built into all leaf springs. And is caused when the rear eyelet in the leaf spring is higher than the front eyelet. Much better to Use traditional spring rates and sway bars to control under/over steer. Use longer rear shackels to bring ride height up to where you want it if needed. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
3rd best way, and most common, is ghetto blocks. Lowers the car, increases axel wrap, but is cheap and easy. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed. Some blocks come pre-angled to compensate for pinion change.
Worst way is to use shorter shackels, which is cheap, easy, but increases rear roll understeer, and makes the leaf rear eyelet change it's height very quickly under rear suspension compression. Which screws up the rear geometry and messes with rear suspension jacking, yuk. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
http://flex-a-form.com/
They eliminate axel wrap on acceleration, eliminate rear wheel hop under braking, and greatly help lateral axel control due to their thick mono-leaf design. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
2nd best way is to take your leaf springs to a leaf spring shop and have them de-arched so they're perfectly flat. De-arching lowers the car AND eliminates rear roll understeer which is built into all leaf springs. And is caused when the rear eyelet in the leaf spring is higher than the front eyelet. Much better to Use traditional spring rates and sway bars to control under/over steer. Use longer rear shackels to bring ride height up to where you want it if needed. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
3rd best way, and most common, is ghetto blocks. Lowers the car, increases axel wrap, but is cheap and easy. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed. Some blocks come pre-angled to compensate for pinion change.
Worst way is to use shorter shackels, which is cheap, easy, but increases rear roll understeer, and makes the leaf rear eyelet change it's height very quickly under rear suspension compression. Which screws up the rear geometry and messes with rear suspension jacking, yuk. Use axel shims between axel and leaf spring to change pinion angle if needed.
Thanks Guys!!!
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Jeff20B
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