sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I'm looking to remove the front sway bar in my Rx2. To take its place, I would like to use something similar to the picture below. (camber bar i made for my FC)

I would mount one end to the steering arm in about the same location the sway bar mounted to it. And mount the other end to the frame.

I'm looking for tips on this. How should or shouldn't i go about this?

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

You should use the factory sway location on the control arm. You can machine the stock location for a spherical bearing or just use poly bushings. Then make your new stay rod to mimic the end of the factory sway bar. If you add an inch or so to the length and thread it deeper you can use this for caster adjustments.

On the chassis side of the stay rod you will want multiple mounting locations, vertically. This will change the anti-dive characteristics. Unless you plot it out in some software, the locations will need some testing and tweaking.

I believe I asked before but did not remember the answer, is this a drag car or road race car?

-billy

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

this is a drag car. I know i should have taken your advice and tubed the front. But after i sanded down the metal and replaced some of the rot. It's not really all that bad, so i'm going to stick with it being stock chassis...

also, thanks for the tips.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I'm forgot to add that i'm using gsl-se struts/hubs/ect. if that changes anything. which i don't think it does....

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

With a drag car you will not need to worry about anti-dive geometry. You can put the front pickup point just about where ever it seems best.

The kingpin inclination on the -SE housings is off compared to the Rx2. You will end up with positive camber. Since you are removing the need for the sway bar pickup in the control arm it would be simple to build new lower control arms that are longer and kick the strut housings out. This will widen the track as well though.

Also, you might as well make the new control arms to fit FB ball joints. This way you can use the FB steering arms so they mount to the strut housings.

-billy

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I made an adapter plate to mount the SE struts to the Rx2 steering arm. I didnt take any pictures just yet, ill post some up later.

They do add some camber since they push the strut out slightly.

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

I have seen those before. Personally I do not like them since the spring forces are not centered on the ball joint like they should be.

A better way if you stick with the Rx2 ball joint is to use Rx4 steering arms (certain years only). They have the ball joint taper of the Rx2 with the bolt spacing for the Rx7 strut housing.

Or mod the stock steering arms by drilling the rx7 bolt pattern in them. Drill the holes in the correct spot large enough for the outer diameter to remove the stock hole. Then weld in a bung with the proper OD and ID. You could even clock them a bit on an angle to improve the ackerman.


-billy

ultimatejay

iTrader: (1)

Bringing back an old thread.

For a drag car, why cant you just cut the sway bar on the inside of the sway bar mount and weld some tabs on both sides of the mount to keep the bar from sliding? See pic

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I am doing it similar to that.

The reason i wanted to remove the sway bar was the mount right there, is gone. Rusted all the way out. I cut out that metal and replaced it with sheet metal. No more mount there for the sway bar to mount to. But i did cut the sway bar basically right where you drew in that picture. I will be mounting it in the area, but a little different.