12aglc

I just bought this GLC and it has a Holley on it. I am needing some guidance. I am about to order a new regulator and dual feed float housings and lines, but I am not positive it is Racing Beat. I believe the carb was purchased from Alamo Rotary in San Antonio. Here are some pics

Pretty ghetto rigged at the moment





What is this? It looks like oil injection like a two stroke would have. Is it supposed to pipe oil into the carb directly like it is setup to now? How can I streamline this setup. This is my first carb experience.

Latin270

No it doesnt look like a RB modified carb. As long as you know what model it is getting parts wont be a problem.

13BT_RX3

Yes, the flapping poppet valve on the float bowl looks right for a RB carb. Throttle cable bracket is missing though.

The oil injection lines stuffed through the choke shaft holes is not a RB feature.

12aglc

Should I just pre mix and yank that stuff?

RotorRican

Is the OMP(oil metering pump) electronic? if not, is missing the rod! so is not getting any oil and destroy the engine!!!

RotorRican

unless you hook up and adjust the rod, you will need to run premix.

Latin270

I thought RB tapped directly into the fuel bowl??????? I'm sure this isnt a true RB prepped carb.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Thats a vacuum secondary carb that somebody converted to manual secondary. Only it doesnt have the secondary squirter that a true doublepumper would have. And the method for injecting the oil is pretty ballsy (yes you are right, its oil injection, rotaries have to have it). I would premix the gas myself and ditch the oil lines "sitting" above the boosters. Seems risky to me. Does it run good? BTW, the zip ties are badass.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

get a vac T in the shape of an F. put it at the OMP, upside down so that the 2 lines from the OMP connect to it and will make one line up to the carb, with a 1/16 NPT nipple threaded into the site plug in the primary bowl. that's how i did mine.

13BT_RX3

If you have a linkage connected to the OMP or can fab one then you might want to fix the oil injection setup. You can use a fitting in the float bowl like RB did or drill and tap a couple holes in the primary runners of the intake manifold. You could install a couple nipples or some oil check valves from an EFI model. You probably should run premix until you fix it though.

12aglc

What ratio do people mix at? Should I just sell this carb and get a double pumper?Doesn't particularly run good. Can I not buy the dual float ends and run fuel to both sides? You say it is not a double pumper. How can you tell? I am just wondering.....

12aglc

In the ad for the car I just bought it says it is an original racing beat 600 w/e the heck that means. Maybe a first version.

the ad----> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4672538&rd=1,1

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

nah i don't think racing beat gets down with there oil injection setup's like that

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Mix 100:1, thats safe. It may smoke a bit and foul plugs if you dont rev it up and clean it out every now and then. I personally would sell it and get a double pumper. You can buy the different float bowls, but you still dont have the dual metering blocks and dont have the secondary squirter a doublepumper comes with. The reason you need that stuff is cuz its been converted to manual secondaries (your carb). If it still had the vacuum secondaries, you would need that stuff, although I have no experience with a vacuum secondary carb on a rotary, so i dont know how well they work. The very first thing I would try, is to run a 1 inch spacer under the carb and see if it runs any better. You are gonna have to do this if you buy a regular double pumper anyway, so might as well try it. Dont buy a 4 hole spacer, buy an open spacer.
I included a picture of a double pumper. Notice it has a fat block (metering block) between the bowls and the main body on both sides (yours is only on one side). It also has a pump squirter (the thing thats held down by a philips head screw inbetween the venturies) on each side, yours is only on the primary side. Yours used to have a diaphram hanging off the side on the secondaries, with linkage attatched to the throttle shaft, but somebody removed it.

12aglc

Wow. Thanx for the explination. I don't see a pic of a carb like that on their site. In fact I didn't find one for a 600cfm for a 12a. I am not even sure what my engine is out of or what year 12a it is. I am not sure which carb to buy. All the pics on their website IE look kind of like mine. I called them and asked if when the guy bought the carb it would have came with a manual and racing beat said all their carbs come ready to run. Where can I read about tuning one of these? I will just unbolt it and stick it up for sale on ebay or something and order the one that will work better for me.

Doc Holiday

iTrader: (2)

Weeellllllll, if you have a stock 12a you probably arent gonna need a 600cfm carb (and thus making my advice kinda worthless). Something smaller like a 450cfm would probably work better, and the manual secondary 450's are a TON of money, so thats why everyone puts a vacuum secondary 450 on their rides. If its stock, you dont need the fancy float bowls either. The carb you got will work fine for stock, you are just gonna have to tune it. You are gonna have to select the right power valve, the right squirter, and the right jets. This all comes with trial and error. BTW, if its not a true racing beat carb (which means the air bleeds havent been modified), then you are still gonna have to run the spacer plate to get it to run right (unless you pop the carb off and find out someone ported a plenum into the manifold, but they dont come that way stock, thus my suggestion). If you have more questions, feel free to PM and I'll help you best I can.

dragonsomnolent

Thank you so much from the future!