gradedcheese

So... the latest is that my car only runs (but sounds 'weird') if i start it, step on the gas, and keep it revved over 3500 or so.

I got frustrated and, finding an inline fuse attached toi the wiring for that crazy trunk-mounted emossions/ignition control stuff I pulled the fuse out to open the circuit.

Now the car starts and runs excellent at any rpm over 1000 or so (though it won't idle by itelf, I have to use the hand throttle or keep my foot on) and the motor sounds right.

I guess something in that box (or borth boxes) isn't woorking? When i put it into gear the car dies but I guess (with the automatic) it's putting a load on and lowering engine speed and without the box stuff it cannot lower it past 1000 or so.

Is there anything that I should look for in the boxes? Like, are the common failure items in there and/or parts that are easy to change? maybe more fuses inside? Can I get replacements?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I don't know anything about the boxes, but I did remove a bunch of boxes from my Cosmo. It had a crazy three points dizzy and a bunch of relays under the hood. It also did not stay running when in R or D. My fix was to remove all those dumb boxes, save one or two (can't remember which right now), swap in an FB dizzy, and disconnect all those relays. Then it ran much better. Then I installed DLIDFIS and it improved much more.

My guess is the relays controlled semi-firing Trailing for the 'fire' inside the thermal reactor, and they also controlled the advance.

Give me an FB dizzy with mechanical advance any day. Also with DLIDFIS, the emissions don't choke me up anymore. Infact, I bet it would pass right now. I had to leave the airpump hooked up so the apex seals don't die since I'm still using a thermal reactor.

Does your engine have a twin-dizzy front cover?

gradedcheese

Hi. Yes I have the dual dizzy front cover. I desparately needed to get the car running so I can drive it to my new house 75 miles away but, unless I find something fixable in those boxes, I guess it will get towed. Once there I can try and install the single distributor setup and remove the boxes I guess. Still it's tempting to fix/replace them to at least get the car running for the time being.

My car doesn't need to pass smog and the automatic is going into the dumpster as soon as I can get the manual parts together. I guess I'll leave the air pump hooked up for as long as I have the stock exhaust thermal crap on there

My car has two trunk boxes: one that hangs upside down under the parcel tray and one that hangs vertically on the trunk wall behind the seats. The latter has a Mitsubishi logo on it. There's some info on them in my rotory manual but nothing on what's inside the boxes.

Darth Linux

I have a spare set of those boxes (there are only 2) that are from a 71 I believe. I don't know if they work or not, but the hulk I pulled them from only had 70K miles, so they should be good.

All they control is when the 3 different emission valves open to lean out the mixture under various deceleration conditions. They also light the trailing set of points when you pull out the choke ****.

What it really sounds like to me is that you have a massive vacuum leak. I'd suggest replacing all of the vacuum lines that are in that smog valve assembly by the carb and air pump and see if that helps. If that doesn't, PM and I'll go to the trouble to type up a check list of "how to determine if your emission valves are working". It involves pulling some hoses and stuff like that to find a vacuum leak and/or see if each valve is working correctly.

If the new hoses don't fix it, I'd guess that one of the valves is broken and leaking vacuum, causing your terrible idle and no run condition.

gradedcheese

Ah, thank you. I thought about vacuum leaks too but I got really excited when the car ran much differently after pulling the boxes. I'm getting the car towed to my new house somehow today or tomorrow and from there I'll actually be able to work on it.

If I don't find a leak your checklist for the smog control valves would be extremely helpful. Also maybe some time next week if you could loan me the boxes for the heck of it just to try them for a day I would owe you big time!

I'll definitely go through the vacuum lines and check that everything on my carb is bolted down right first.

Quick question: I removed my "sub zero start assist" stuff. I unplugged the line that goes to the carb from the sub zero cannister as well... this wouldn't cause a vacuum leak would it? From what it looks like that hole just went to the throat and not anywhere where there needs to be vaccuum right?

Darth Linux

correct. you don't need to plug that brass thingy that the subzero hose connects to. It just squirted antifreeze on the throttle plates.

what year is your 2? If it isn't a 71, those emission boxes either won't work or wont connect. I don't know if the pin connectors are different each year, but I know that mazda changed their functionality slightly each year, so I kinda doubt they are interchangeable from year to year, assuming the pin connectors didn't change.

i hope that made sense . . .

gradedcheese

thanks. yeah, it's a '73.