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My First ever build!!!!!!
Hi guys, 1st of all I have no clue what I got into or what I'm doing, 2nd I have NO experience what so ever when it comes to restoration, and 3rd I could use all the help I can get.....So here it goes.
I found this gem abandoned in a barn outside of Raleigh NC. According to records the last time the REPU was registered and on the roads was in 1990. The owner parked it and for the past 15 yrs. she has been sitting inside the barn untouched, we used a winch to get it out of the barn since the weeds were growing all over. Here are a couple of pics. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d4b805a041.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fda357647a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...405fb02b76.jpg |
She has some rust but surprisingly there were no rat's nests... lol
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...427c813d84.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e608611393.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1d35e2680a.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b228effc81.jpg |
After pulling her out of the weeds and loading her unto the trailer we head home, once I got home I got some soap and water and WALAH!!!!! HUGE DIFFRENCE!!!!!!!! ALL ORIGINAL too
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a3ddfc3c36.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd4c2d8190.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...490ca7f423.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3a95c0181e.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d2cf314b2f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fb2316fa0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...528d1fb7a2.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a005298ca1.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dc81eb64ed.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...95ef45c755.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c52b940045.jpg |
Nice score, I wish my interior was that nice.
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Originally Posted by boostdtalon
(Post 11940459)
Nice score, I wish my interior was that nice.
Thank you, I put a fresh battery all the electronics work perfect and even the push button AM/FM radio lol |
nice find that thing is pretty clean
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Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11940497)
nice find that thing is pretty clean
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My 1st attempt at welding and body work...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a00b37d68.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6f3293073e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f5b1d974ad.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...161cc5d59d.jpg I need help!!!!! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1f0f39f924.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcbf5a19d7.jpg I know but this is all i have for now lol https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9e9752b4ad.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...97c3b68ff5.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7ca83bd920.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...627c6235b7.jpg |
So did it come with papers and if not how hard is it going to be to register it?
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Oh yes clean title, papers, inspection papers and manual.
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what went wrong with the bodywork patch?
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I use a block of aluminum to prevent mig blowout when welding patches. Works great. Gives the molten weld metal support, controls heat and keeps the wire under control.
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Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11940776)
I use a block of aluminum to prevent mig blowout when welding patches. Works great. Gives the molten weld metal support, controls heat and keeps the wire under control.
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You didn't cut enough metal out , you burned through because the metal is thin from rust on the back side,I wish the first time I did rust repair it look that good
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Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11940837)
You didn't cut enough metal out , you burned through because the metal is thin from rust on the back side,I wish the first time I did rust repair it look that good
Thank you, I will note that. Ill make sure I cut more next time.. thank you again for the advise. |
Does anyone know where I can order a front windshield and door seals for the Repu?
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you can get the windshield from safelite. tell them that you need a glass for a 1975 ford courier truck
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Isn't that the antenna hole? Not that you need it.
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
(Post 11940970)
Isn't that the antenna hole? Not that you need it.
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You do need some help, I think you can flick that piece off with your finger, what type of welder are you using?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f4fce26a0e.jpg |
That looks like a flux core.
You should cut the piece of steel slightly bigger than the hole and hold it up under. The heat will be more spread out. Also get some weld through paint which will prevent lots of the balling up on the surface. Use a lower or lowest heat setting and .30 wire. As for wire speed, that is up to your skill and your machine. Maybe get a thicker piece of steel as well. Bend the edge 90 degrees so it can fit up in there easier and be stronger. Then once it's in place, maybe weld a new piece of thin stuff above it to bring the height up to the original fender. Then you'll require less mud. Keep the welds and heat spread out so they don't shrink the area down too much. Do a little at a time. |
Originally Posted by Medevack1
(Post 11940826)
Thank you for the advise. What do you mean an aluminum block? Do you have a picture on how to use it?
You just place the aluminum flat against the weld zone. Aluminum is conductive, but won't stick to steel, so it makes filling air gaps no problem too. For your fender weld you would need a helper to hold the block or plate, wearing welding gloves, spanning the joint pressed firmly against the backside of the edge of the body hole and patch plate. |
Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11941153)
Sorry no picture. The aluminum I've used was 1/8" or thicker.
You just place the aluminum flat against the weld zone. Aluminum is conductive, but won't stick to steel, so it makes filling air gaps no problem too. For your fender weld you would need a helper to hold the block or plate, wearing welding gloves, spanning the joint pressed firmly against the backside of the edge of the body hole and patch plate. |
Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11941183)
You could also use brass, also you could get a welding spoon, I believe they are brass, the weld doesn't stick to it and also helps desipate the heat.harbor freight has them for like 10$
Try a few test pieces with a brass or aluminum backer. You will be amazed with how good your welds turn out. |
That repair will crack the bondo out and fail. You need to cut it out correctly size your patch piece to an exact fit and properly set your welder for the material. If you do that you should not need a backer. Do it right or you will be doing it again.
Its copper you use as a backer and normally used in welding spoons. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-b...-patch-panels/ |
Originally Posted by evo_koa
(Post 11940920)
you can get the windshield from safe lite. tell them that you need a glass for a 1975 ford courier truck
Isn't that the antenna hole? Not that you need it.
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11941090)
That looks like a flux core.
You should cut the piece of steel slightly bigger than the hole and hold it up under. The heat will be more spread out. Also get some weld through paint which will prevent lots of the balling up on the surface. Use a lower or lowest heat setting and .30 wire. As for wire speed, that is up to your skill and your machine. Maybe get a thicker piece of steel as well. Bend the edge 90 degrees so it can fit up in there easier and be stronger. Then once it's in place, maybe weld a new piece of thin stuff above it to bring the height up to the original fender. Then you'll require less mud. Keep the welds and heat spread out so they don't shrink the area down too much. Do a little at a time. |
Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11941153)
Sorry no picture. The aluminum I've used was 1/8" or thicker.
You just place the aluminum flat against the weld zone. Aluminum is conductive, but won't stick to steel, so it makes filling air gaps no problem too. For your fender weld you would need a helper to hold the block or plate, wearing welding gloves, spanning the joint pressed firmly against the backside of the edge of the body hole and patch plate. |
What kind of welder do you have? What settings are you using? Maybe forum folks can help you dial it in.
I figured you would have a scrap of aluminum sitting around. A copper, brass or aluminum backer will make all of your steel welding go a lot easier. If you have to buy a piece for backing, Copper or Brass is most versatile because you could use it to weld aluminum, but aluminum is most common and works great as a backer for steel. Get what is easiest to find, they all work to make the type of welding you're doing easier. Have fun and good luck. |
Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11942160)
What kind of welder do you have? What settings are you using? Maybe forum folks can help you dial it in.
I figured you would have a scrap of aluminum sitting around. A copper, brass or aluminum backer will make all of your steel welding go a lot easier. If you have to buy a piece for backing, Copper or Brass is most versatile because you could use it to weld aluminum, but aluminum is most common and works great as a backer for steel. Get what is easiest to find, they all work to make the type of welding you're doing easier. Have fun and good luck. |
Do you have their 90A AC welder? A welder with DC output would be better, but several reviews of the AC welder indicate that upgrading the ground clamp to copper and changing the welding wire to Lincoln 0.030" or 0.035" flux core wire corrected the poor welding characteristics.
Here's a review, "I have been a professional welder for 35 years and I bought this welder last week for my shop. Out of the box, it welded ok but, could be better. So here are some small upgrades that I made and recommend- that will take this welder to a whole new level. First, do yourself a favor and replace the cheap metal negative ground clamp with a serious copper negative ground clamp for $13 at HF. This small upgrade made a world of difference in the quality of weld and will give a few more amps to the project. Next, throw away the HF Flux Core wire that comes with the machine and buy some Lincoln .030 or .035 FC wire. This produced some awesome welds that really impressed me on ¼ inch material with no problem at all!! The machine did not come with a .035 torch tip but, I was able to use the .030 tip with the .035 wire and it worked great! I would highly recommend this welder to a beginner or professional for a cost that cant be beat! Hope this was helpful. BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend" |
speaking of welders, I would shy away from the HB welders, I've read way too many horror stories about them and looking at them they look and feel cheaply built, I would look for a used Hobart, Auto Arc, Miller, Lincoln or century
My first mig welder was a millermatic 210 built for production, I had it about 5 years, maybe used it a total of 2 hours of actual welding, I've had lincoln, miller and hobart (dont ask lol) After doing my unnecessary R&D over the years, I realised that I mostly do my own exhaust systems, small brackets and remove broken studs and ended up with late 90s mig welder auto arc 120 (130 amps mfg by Hobart) that I picked up on cl for $100 that needed a mig gun and it came with a old bottle and regulator, I sold the regulator & bottle for a $100, I called Miller looking for a gun and they let me know the part number which was the same part number that comes in the new Miller 140, I went on eBay and purchased replica mig gun from the biggest welding supplier online for $65 and man am I impressed how great this thing works, It doesn't miss a beat. Here is a picture of my welder set up, The cart and bottle I kept from one of my tig welders I purchased for the unnecessary R&D days:nod: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f3a396d40c.jpg |
Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11942405)
Do you have their 90A AC welder? A welder with DC output would be better, but several reviews of the AC welder indicate that upgrading the ground clamp to copper and changing the welding wire to Lincoln 0.030" or 0.035" flux core wire corrected the poor welding characteristics.
Here's a review, "I have been a professional welder for 35 years and I bought this welder last week for my shop. Out of the box, it welded ok but, could be better. So here are some small upgrades that I made and recommend- that will take this welder to a whole new level. First, do yourself a favor and replace the cheap metal negative ground clamp with a serious copper negative ground clamp for $13 at HF. This small upgrade made a world of difference in the quality of weld and will give a few more amps to the project. Next, throw away the HF Flux Core wire that comes with the machine and buy some Lincoln .030 or .035 FC wire. This produced some awesome welds that really impressed me on ¼ inch material with no problem at all!! The machine did not come with a .035 torch tip but, I was able to use the .030 tip with the .035 wire and it worked great! I would highly recommend this welder to a beginner or professional for a cost that cant be beat! Hope this was helpful. BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend" |
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bc941365ec.jpg
Ok thanks to Nick who is a great friend, he told me about changing the electronics on the ignition, he gided me through text and even send me a link to rewire the system and this is what i got so far. Any comments are welcome.....i have NOT connected the battery and those connectors and wires will be trplaced once i get the OK that they are correct. |
What erick31876 said. You were attempting to weld the patch to further rust. You need to cut all the rust out before you even think of welding in a patch. What you see is typically only 30% of the actual rust.
If you are using flux core, stop. Don't go any further. Run gas, C25 or "autoweld". 0.023 wire, on about 50A. PRACTICE on some scraps to get the wire speed set. |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 11942743)
What erick31876 said. You were attempting to weld the patch to further rust. You need to cut all the rust out before you even think of welding in a patch. What you see is typically only 30% of the actual rust.
If you are using flux core, stop. Don't go any further. Run gas, C25 or "autoweld". 0.023 wire, on about 50A. PRACTICE on some scraps to get the wire speed set. |
Well over the weekend I managed to power wash the engine bay scrubbed all up and under, also scored a Racing Beat manifold and a Holly 600. Time for some more weekend work.
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Update: So im waiting for thw goodies to arrive in the mean time I managed to get the engine bay a little nicer and try out more welding, the original hinges of the battery compartment were totally corroded and broken, so I looked around the shop and found an old piano hinge.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...af6afd342f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e8cb24524e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...30ad032200.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9bba1488b7.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e03bad4f68.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...451ad14ca3.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d4ca8be7a5.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ea7bb35bb4.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2a796090dc.jpg |
If you haven't already, you should binge watch all of Aaron Cake's videos. Skilled fabricator. Lots of great ideas of how to do things and what to use. Even if a topic doesn't interest you, watch it anyway, you'll still come away with some sound advice about something you never thought of.
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The engine bay looks great, what silver paint did you use for the engine. I'm looking for something similar, but everything I try looks different
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Originally Posted by riverseine
(Post 11944519)
If you haven't already, you should binge watch all of Aaron Cake's videos. Skilled fabricator. Lots of great ideas of how to do things and what to use. Even if a topic doesn't interest you, watch it anyway, you'll still come away with some sound advice about something you never thought of.
The engine bay looks great, what silver paint did you use for the engine. I'm looking for something similar, but everything I try looks different http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...bL._SY355_.jpg |
Is that the cast coat silver, or the universal silver. I used the cast coat silver and it looks different than yours looks, maybe it looks different because of the pictures
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Ill take a pic of the can when i get home.
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Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11944732)
Is that the cast coat silver, or the universal silver. I used the cast coat silver and it looks different than yours looks, maybe it looks different because of the pictures
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fbf088a89d.jpg |
Got a package today from LPZ Performance in Puerto Rico
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...49028fbfac.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e4ca8a1b42.jpg |
Originally Posted by Medevack1
(Post 11944635)
Awesome thank you are his Videos on YouTube?
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Update: well today I got it started for the 1st time in 15yrs lol fresh plugs, fresh oil, New Gas, ignition swap, only problem she won't stay running (idle) with out external fuel assistance im guessing is the nikki carb so I have a holley 600 and a racing beat manifold
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dff5744d2a.jpg . https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7ed850e36d.jpg Dry fit https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9e7cf3e024.jpg Waiting on gaskets https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fef24a162.jpg |
Looking good, make sure you hook up the oil metering pump or premix
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Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11945697)
Looking good, make sure you hook up the oil metering pump or premix
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I was able to squeeze a couple of hours in the garage last night .
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...992e40f264.jpg Holley and RB Manifold installed. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6649f94125.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f1fa517945.jpg MSD coils re-wired. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e921aacd56.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...079ac00a30.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fedfdd4a2d.jpg Old school double pulley thanks to Nick 73rx313b |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cb001ee3b2.jpg
Made a temporary throttle cable bracket out of high carbon steel. .lol https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7f02ffd9e3.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...98c78e6d16.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8f243497b1.jpg |
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