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I know i havnt posted in a while but i have been busy at work. But here are some updates.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5f1d7a34c5.jpg Ordered the Glimer kit from down under... lol https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...54c5ce22ad.jpg Rebuild the Holley 600 cleaned it and gave it a little polish. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d1fcab202c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...96620dfb7c.jpg Was a little bored and made some temporary wooden door panels. |
Ok guys I need some help here my 13b is stock only mods so far is MSD coils, RB header, RB intake manifold and Holley 600 she idels good but when given gas she either chokes or is running lean. I took the Jets out and this is what I got.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...291cf0267c.jpg Squirter is 28 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...562a54ece0.jpg Jets are Stamped 661. I couldn't find anything on the web about it. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...77734a85e7.jpg |
What was the reason for getting a double pulley then gilmer kit?
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your ganna hate dealing with all that rust by the end of it all. good luck with the rest of the build!
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Originally Posted by Medevack1
(Post 11957112)
Ok guys I need some help here my 13b is stock only mods so far is MSD coils, RB header, RB intake manifold and Holley 600 she idels good but when given gas she either chokes or is running lean. I took the Jets out and this is what I got.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...291cf0267c.jpg Squirter is 28 https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...562a54ece0.jpg Jets are Stamped 661. I couldn't find anything on the web about it. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...77734a85e7.jpg I like to use soldered jets and an index drill bit set to rough in main jet sizes. I solder up the jets that are way to big for anything I will use. Then I buy the right size plus and minus one size later. A wide band will help quite a bit. Have fun. |
What was the reason for getting a double pulley then Gilmer kit?
Originally Posted by sandy_RE
(Post 11957255)
your gonna hate dealing with all that rust by the end of it all. good luck with the rest of the build!
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Originally Posted by 13BT_RX3
(Post 11957269)
Rich/ lean staging sounds like it's off. This is controlled by your main jets and a predrilled orifice in the metering block under the power valve. Size your main jets so it cruises well first. Then reduce the size of the two orifices covered by the power valve with appropriately sized wire. Bent the wire into an omega shape so it clears the power valve and sits in each power valve jet opening. You will need to tune to determine the diameter of wire needed. Use effective diameter to keep track of the change in area of the power valve passages. EffectiveDiameter=Square Root (PVOrificeDiameter^2 - WireDiameter^2)
I like to use soldered jets and an index drill bit set to rough in main jet sizes. I solder up the jets that are way to big for anything I will use. Then I buy the right size plus and minus one size later. A wide band will help quite a bit. Have fun. |
661 Jet
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Why couldn't they just use the actual drilled orifice size instead? Why go through the extra steps? 1.5% wow!
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 11958295)
Why couldn't they just use the actual drilled orifice size instead? Why go through the extra steps? 1.5% wow!
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Well guys i decided to go another route.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e54d9a4af.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...26e3f7cd9.jpeg |
Originally Posted by Medevack1
(Post 11959074)
Well guys i decided to go another route.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e54d9a4af.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...26e3f7cd9.jpeg |
So you've decided to go turbo on this thing? Welcome to the boosted carb club! I'd prefer a Nikki, of course.
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first build
5 Attachment(s)
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11959207)
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11959207)
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11959207)
I respect how ambitious you are on your first build , I have been into rotary for about 20 years and have been building high quality builds for about 10 years . I would like to give you some tips that will hopefully make your journey a little easier : 1 take a welding class , anyone who were to buy this truck from you would be pretty pissed if they found this hack repair 2. The holly you have on your RB manifold is not jetted or calibrated for a rotary , do your diligence and find out what needs to be done , these carbs work great ( although I hate holly carbs ) when tuned correctly .3 If this is your first build a turbo setup is not only tricky but complicated for longevity and from what I have seen your skill set and diligence are not ready for this project . IMO work out the bugs with your holly , Racing Beats tech line is extremely helpful .I hope this helps you . Here are some of my cars , they are getting harder to find and most of us on this forum would like to see them survive .
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The repu was never on e bay , no bags. my friend (who owns it now ) would like to sell it . The folks are still on the truck , they are hard to find in 6 lug .
Good luck on the truck , a blow through turbo can be a tricky job . I'm doing a blow through on my rx2 12a with an original water to air inner cooled carteck kit . |
Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11960879)
The repu was never on e bay , no bags. my friend (who owns it now ) would like to sell it . The folks are still on the truck , they are hard to find in 6 lug .
Good luck on the truck , a blow through turbo can be a tricky job . I'm doing a blow through on my rx2 12a with an original water to air inner cooled carteck kit . |
Did a little bit of Porting and Polishing, sanding and more polishing over the weekend.......
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...228500fbad.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b094db470.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...67e790ff0c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...518a78e550.jpg |
3 Attachment(s)
I wish you hadn't done that . That manifold you just ported was a cartech turbo manifold , the secondary runners aren't matched in length because it doesn't matter on a turbo . That porting will hinder performance . If the weber is a 44mm its an early and a 40 mm was late . The 40mm had better performance gains and drivability . That manifold is no good for N/A applications .The early r.e. 44idf manifold is good for n/a because the runners are the same as in pic 3. Lastly there are no need for air horns on a turbo application.
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Rotary Fuel Injection Kit - Injection Perfection
maybe look into a injection perfection type throttle body bro along with a fuel only ECU of your choice instead of using the weber if your going to go turbo. it might cost a bit more but will make better power, be more tuner friendly and the car would be more reliable wich will make things a bit easier, but it all depends on what you want out of the car at the end of the day. |
That kit is for n/a , 40mm would be more suited for street turbo system . I 've been looking at efi hardware for one of my n/a builds .Fuel injection will usually add torque, 20-30 ft. lb. is common. As for a computer , if you are going turbo you need one of the following 1. computer that retards timing 2. full locked or semi locked distributer 3. 12at distributer ( the only distributer that retards under boost ) only problem with the 12at distributer is no one can seem to answer the question " how many degrees it retards " . If it only retards 6 degrees (as some have said in the past)then its not really worth using as 7 psi would be your limit on boost .I personally like the 15 psi range for good HP gains and motor longevity .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11965805)
That kit is for n/a , 40mm would be more suited for street turbo system . I 've been looking at efi hardware for one of my n/a builds .Fuel injection will usually add torque, 20-30 ft. lb. is common. As for a computer , if you are going turbo you need one of the following 1. computer that retards timing 2. full locked or semi locked distributer 3. 12at distributer ( the only distributer that retards under boost ) only problem with the 12at distributer is no one can seem to answer the question " how many degrees it retards " . If it only retards 6 degrees (as some have said in the past)then its not really worth using as 7 psi would be your limit on boost .I personally like the 15 psi range for good HP gains and motor longevity .
or another option is find a s4/5 turbo block with loom and drop it in (if it fits) high flow the turbo it would be tonnes of fun in the REPU and be a lot easier/cheaper if your looking to go turbo. |
s4/5 would be the cheapest most effective way to do the job . The motor and t2 trans would drop right in a repu
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11965987)
s4/5 would be the cheapest most effective way to do the job . The motor and t2 trans would drop right in a repu
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Originally Posted by almoststockrepu
(Post 11966038)
The factory exhaust manifold and turbo dont fit inside the frame rails properly. Also the shifter hole alignment is too far forward for a t2 tranny.
your right looks to be a tight squeeze in the repu engine bay for the exhaust manifold. probably why its not a popular conversion.:icon_tdow |
Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11966115)
Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .
you can buy the intake manifold to suit 13b turbo for the injection perfection off that site to. id just stay N/A for now until he fixes the rust and gets it sprayed then sort the motor out. |
The FI you like is a bit pricey here in the states , all builds take work and $ . Building it twice takes more $ . For this first build I would N/A it as you said and if he wants turbo pick up a motor that suits a turbo . I have been in this rotary thing for over 20 years and done more mods than I care to talk about and what Mazda designs (turbo , apex seals ,etc. ) always seems to work the best for street use . This thread seems like a parts swap from what I have seen and I hope this repu gets on the road for some good burn outs soon.
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yea it is a bit pricey plus shipping on top would be a killer. your right im building my first rx7 at the moment, the money and time you spend on the car starts to add up pretty quickly. iv heard the same thing also mazda didn't spend all that money in R&D for nothing. I hope it makes it on the road to.
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11966115)
Easy fix , modify a turbo header , they are pretty cheap . As for the trans , shorten an fb shifter housing and you gain 5" forward . There is plenty of room in a repu engine bay to do almost anything with minimal mods. Try fitting all of that in an rx2 and it starts getting tight. Injection perfection TB wont fit on that manifold its a IDF size where as the injection perfection is IDA size . The manifold is also for a 12a . At the end of the day there is a big expensive explosion of parts thrown at the truck . Stock t2 or RE intakes are cheap and make great HP with great street manners , big throaty TB will work and are great for drag racing but normally have bad response off of the bottom . T2 ,RE and REW manifolds were engineered by Mazda for turbo applications and will work poorly if not at all on an N/A motor .
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Those videos are good if installing the fc turbo trans in a fb which only needs a little over an inch cut in length.any oldschool would need about 5" cut off so it sits in the cars floor opening.would require a fb shifter housing cut about 4" and the turbo II shifter rod cut about 5".
I got 3 turbo transmissions need to do this to soon.1 for a rx3,1 for a rx2, and the other for a fb.. |
Ok guys I need HELP!!!!! 1st of all the engine is bone stock, the only mods are (84) ignition, racing beat header. So I installed a IDF weber system, I installed it and worked on it all day I finally got it to run for about 3minuts then I took the gas pedal off and it shut off. I tried to restart it and it wouldn't. can someone look at the pics and see what I have done working? thank you all in advance.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d43690aa7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6a9f65eb60.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fdd2f1470.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4abff81a95.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1851aca91e.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...02aef2a17c.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7cf6fbc0ac.jpg |
you have probably flooded it.
did you get the webber jetted for your engine ? |
Originally Posted by sandy_RE
(Post 11969942)
you have probably flooded it.
did you get the webber jetted for your engine ? |
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/webercomponents.pdf
never jetted one myself but have a read that should help you out in getting it running properly. |
but it all depends on your engine and the climtate of where you live to get the jetting right.
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Originally Posted by sandy_RE
(Post 11971436)
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/webercomponents.pdf
never jetted one myself but have a read that should help you out in getting it running properly. |
THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11971835)
THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
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Make up what ever convinces you differently but its not made for N/A. Throw jets at it and it still won't be right . I have showed you examples of N/A and turbo manifolds , but I guess you have better info. In a F.I. set up you can't use a RE or REW intake and runner system on an N/A motor , thats why mazda made an N/A intake and runner system . THe same principals apply here . Lastly , its a cartech turbo manifold . This manifold was engineered by Corky Bell (owner of cartech) for his turbo setup . Nothing about the manifold is universal .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11971835)
THats a turbo manifold , not made for N/A .
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It is good , read your own thread and you will get the answer ( i posted it a few pages ago ) . It seems all you do is post a question and don't read the answers . Along with that you try to up your post count with stupid comments . Right now is the time maybe you should read and then humble yourself . Its your first build and some seasoned members are trying to help you and you aren't listening . You have destroyed some historic valuable parts and don't care . With your attitude you will find yourself alone in the old school section as fast as you entered .
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Originally Posted by mattallac
(Post 11974465)
It is good , read your own thread and you will get the answer ( i posted it a few pages ago ) . It seems all you do is post a question and don't read the answers . Along with that you try to up your post count with stupid comments . Right now is the time maybe you should read and then humble yourself . Its your first build and some seasoned members are trying to help you and you aren't listening . You have destroyed some historic valuable parts and don't care . With your attitude you will find yourself alone in the old school section as fast as you entered .
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