cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Made contact with image shack today...Nick assured me all problems have been squared away. There was a problem with an advertisement on the page. At any rate the problem shouldn't occur again.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Been slow going lately...got my rear main seal in and cleaned up the rear of the engine.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Also sent my flywheel out to be cut and ordered a new clutch kit from rock auto. I guess when it feels like its taking forever, I must be getting close to the end.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

It seemed to take forever, but I got most of the engine work out of the way. Items completed included a new water pump, painted water pump housing, new rear main seal, resurfaced flywheel, new clutch assembly.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

got the intake installed as well with new coolant plugs. Thanks again 81widemariah!



Also I took delivery of some other much needed items...


all new steering linkage and inner and outer tie rods...

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Got a new brake master cylinder as well...


and to finish up my days off, I got some painting done in the engine bay...



when my new radiator comes, I can test fit and then rip everything out to finish painting and begin some kind of final asembly process. Will take pics as it comes together.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Once the engine bay is clear again, it will give me plenty of space to finish painting and to install all the steering stuff. I love the way the flat black looks against the orange (very Hemi) I am still waiting for some rear suspension bits to arrive from australia...I made the mistake of using sea mail, which carries a shipping time of roughly 3 to 4 months! NEVER AGAIN! The guys on AusRotary are sweethearts for putting up with my many questions though. I still think they are a little nuts though!!!

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

New radiator arrived today...very nice quality, and the fill neck resembles the old school look of the rx3 etc. I should be able to mount under the radiator support and actually run a mechanical fan. Fitment is everything, I'll check it tomorrow. here are a couple of pics in the meantime.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Been super busy at work, but got some things done this morning...radiator fitment!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us




I was disappointed to learn that I don't think I will be able to run a mechanical fan. It will touch the upper rad hose as well as be too tall to close the hood!




Hoping to get a lot more done soon. I'm shooting for Mar 31st as a first start up date. Hold me to it!

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Finishing up some painting in the engine bay, then it is on to fitting the engine and and trans again. Then detail all the bits to go back in the bay. No pics at this time, but more soon to come.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Been working pretty good the last couple of days. Got the engine bay painted. I think it came out ok, black is just a tricky color. Just when you think it went on good, the sun would come out and all of a sudden I was seeing the orange underneath again. Primer and better prep must be the key to better results I'm sure. The whole idea was just to clean up in there and it certainly looks a bit better than it did.
Got the motor, trans, crossmembers, sway bar radiator and lower control arms all installed, but I have a NEW problem...went to install my exhaust manifold and noticed all the studs were too short. I guess they got swapped off this engine in a previous life. Any suggestions to getting the studs out. I usually use two nut, lock them together and back out the stud, but since these are exhaust studs (on a rotary no less with its very hot exhaust) I fear that these will be a pain in the *** to get out and I dont wanna damage the housings. Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks in advance for any help. Here are some pics from the last couple of days



all four studs are too short...


my engine bay...getting there.

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

I ended up ordering new studs and nuts from mazdatrix. Wish me luck so I don't snap a stud off in a rotor housing!! Once the studs are switched out I can finish assembling the rest of the bay and start to work through minor issues like finding radiator hoses and the best way to do my wiring. Can I just splice into my original ignition coil wiring to do my coils for the rotary?? This seems to be the easiest way. Or is it better to just run new wiring? Anyone been down this road before???

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

After reading through about 20 exhaust stud nightmare threads, I took a different approach. I bought a countersinking drill bit and recessed the holes a bit in the manifold. This gave me enough thread to catch the nut and torque it a couple of turns. (crossed fingers). If it leaks I guess I will be back to square one pulling the engine for the stud repair.

Tonight will be mounting coils, carb, alt, etc...

Is anyone running their fuel pump in the engine bay instead of under the car??? I have done it previously on another project, but that car was sold before completion. Any ill effects? Its a stock Rx7 pump btw. Thanks

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

i always thought it was a lazy way of doing things..fuel pump will work better at fuel tank level...removing old stud is a crap shoot..i would tap the stud with a hamer a few times and use stud removal tool ...http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...ype=T&cat=2222..good luck...

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

I was able to get the studs out of the front cover that way rx71king, but I have a feeling these exhaust studs are a hole different ball game. Manifold is on now so we will just have to see. I will take your advice and mount the pump under the car by the gas tank. I also have a holley fuel pump. Would this be a better option with a regulator? If so, what psi do I need to be at to run a slightly modded nikki? Sorry for all the questions...I just want this to come out right. Thanks again.

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

holley would be good . just get a good fuel pressure gauge...http://mrcmfg.com/catalog/product_in...ucts_id=163..i think nikki guys run 2.5 to 4 i am not sure...do a little search on that.

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

the stock fuel pressure is 3.5 psi . . .don't be sorry for asking questions . thats what this site is for . and if i can't answers a some one else will....

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Thanks King...its appreciated. Its starting to come together. Coils, carb and pump all mounted. Just working on some coolant plumbing and then it is on to wiring. Ordered some needed items like cooling fan relay kit, fuel pump relay kit, and got some other items in the mail...



also scored a 84-85 rear counterweight so I can upgrade to a lightweight flywheel after I sell one of my kids to get one...lol

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

My nikki has a dual inlet of different sizes. I was intending in just tee ing my feed line from one to two and connect to nikki. Is this correct or should something else be going to the smaller feed?



Please keep flaming to minimum regarding the fuel pump in the engine bay. I know it is not optimal, but my garage is tiny and getting the rear of the vehicle up right now is a bit of an impossibility given the space. Once its running and out I will make provisions to get it under the car near the fuel tank.

Pic does not show it, but all cooling plumbing is sorted and once the fuel lines are done it is on to wiring and a couple of misc things and then hopefully I can hear this thing run!!!!

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

smaller one on the left is the return...

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

thanks that makes more sense...lol

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Ok, got my cooling system plumbed as well as the fuel system (for now) Started to do some wiring with the ign coils and alternator. Not sure if I got the + and - right on the ignitor, but will confirm tonight. Then it is on to wiring in the fuel pump and starter and I should be filling fluids and good to go.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Got the car running this morning . Will post some video of it this weekend. I'm on vacation starting tomorrow, so I'll have some time to sort out the rest of the car and take it for a drive hopefully!!! So glad to finally hear it run.

rx71king

iTrader: (6)

congratulations..

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Here is a brief video of it running. The end part is just me scampering around for the fan to blow the exhaust fumes out of the garage, but you get the idea

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xuc5fZUqsQ8

OZZYINCALI

iTrader: (4)

Congrats on getting it running. hey if you ever want to paint your engine bay use Preval paint system. I used it on both of my Rx2s engine bays with really good results. Basically you buy your automotive paint, reducer and mix it in the supplied jar, You then screw the jar into the bottom of the spray can. You will have your own little spray gun without a compressor etc. It was really good for me because I could paint my engine bay factory color drop in running gear and then send away for body work. I also used a good canned clear coat 2kMax that is a dual activated clear with only a 24 hour window to spray. All up with a pint of paint and supplies you are looking at about $100-120 including sand paper, cleaner etc.