any one do a 12a swap or other rotary swap in a mazda truck i am doing one lookin for pics or advise on it

thanks

 

welcome rotatrucker, hit n the search area u can find lots of stuff that way, and yes there r 13bs always being put in there.. good luck

 

Hello Rotatrucker87

I did a search and found this link, I hope it helps.

As you will find out, anything you imagine to build or swap has been done before.

There's alots of reading when starting to learn and or playing with Rotaries. Here's other sites that will help you gather all the info you need.

http://www.mazdatruckin.com/

http://www.ausrotary.com/

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?

http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?act=idx


Andres

 

What do you want to know??? I did one and I am looking @ buliding another...

DAn

 

Hey Dan, are you going with a heavy flywheel? Which rotating assembly? Will it be supercharged again?

I just got my '74 running again and its stock 30 pounder flywheel really is nice. I plan to supercharge some day so I will need to change the flywheel because the SCs add rotating weight. Remember my bro's RX-4? It started with a 30 pound stocker on the old engine. Then we switched to a GSL-SE flywheel with the rebuild, and while NA it was a great improvement. However when we installed the SC, it felt like the old 30 pounder again. He should have gone with a light steel flywheel.

So the lesson learned here is to switch to a flywheel one step lighter when going with an SC. I honestly could get away with a GSL-SE flywheel in my REPU, and it would perform great for towing and hauling, whether NA or SC. However my truck also has a nice low geared diff (feels like 4.3 but could be the '74 spec 4.625) and the current 30 pounder feels like it takes a little too long to accelerate under normal circumstances (empty bed, not towing) for my liking. Plus it has the old heavy 1757 13B rotating assembly, so that adds some weight too.

I think I could use a light steel flywheel and it wouldn't be too detrimental. Plus since I occasionally use the truck for hauling, and rarely for towing, I'd get better gas mileage from a light steel since there is less mass to accelerate each and every time I upshift.

The extreme smoothness would be gone with a light steel, but with an SC it would feel more like a GSL-SE flywheel, and that's basically what I was aiming for in the first place.

Anyway that's my take on the whole SC vs NA vs rotating assembly weight vs rear diff ratio for truck use thing.

 

Yes I will be useing a heavy flywheel as I need it to haul wood pellets and engine cores from time to time and the light weight flywheels are too light for a PU...

As for the Supercharger HELL Yes it will have one...the last one was a blast to drive and this one should drive and handle better than the last one...

the rotor assembly will be S4 [86-88] parts...

Dan

 

I have a 1972 RX-2 with the original twin-dizzy engine, still equipped with working air pump, thermal reactor, afterburner pipe, and a multitude of anxient smog sensors, air injector nozzles, and relais.

In a nutshell, the smog pump feeds the system with air all the time, and the little helpers (have no idea if they all work properly) direct the air into the exhaust for afterburning, or, in case of decceleration or high speed, into the thermal reactor for cooling.

The schematics of this system is mindboggling and all of the spaghetti hoses in the engine compartment drive me nuts. None of the helpers can be replaced, if malfunctioning, and the stuff is so weird and outdated that it would be crazy to try to keep or get it running forever.

Hence, although I want to keep the car as original as possible, the crude and overcomplex smog system has to go. I wonder how I should proceed.

I understand, if I unhook the smog pump, the thermal reactor can overheat. So my guess is that I have to replace the thermal reactor with a good exhaust manifold (I have a very good one already), at which time I can remove the smog pump as well. But since there seems to be a lot of stuff connected to the intake manifold as well, I might have to change that too and remove all of those control valves from the carburetor as well.
Any thoughts on how to proceed? What do I need to change, what do I need to plug? What intake manifold should I buy? What do I do with the vapor hose coming from the fuel overflow canister in the back?
Has anyone disabled/removed the smog system without going all out and popping in another engine?
Thanks!

 

well for now just a lil nos on a 12a in a stock mazda b2000 and move up from there