this is the third time i've built the 4 port 76-78 Jspec 13B for my REPU.... the first 2 times it ran for 10 minutes, then completely seized... chewed up all 4 bearings... this time, i got it built, did everything by the book, all torque specs, everything, cleaned EVERY part inside and out, made the motor absolutely beautiful.. i get it installed in my truck today, no probs installing, it all works well... get the truck running, for the first 10 minutes i kept it running without driving it... kept it below 3000 rpm... then i killed it, cleaned up my stall at the hobby shop here on base, and pushed it out... got it started again, drove around base for about 20 minutes, decided this time went right, and drove it to my gf's place... i drove it about 30 times that times, so a total of 40 minutes... i get to my gf's place, and no sooner had i parked, than the motor seized again. anyone have any suggestions? i set the end play, i had new bearings on the rotors and replaced the stationaries and E shaft... i am running out of ideas, and after building it 3 times i can't afford to have a shop like atkins build it...

 

There has to be something you're leaving out that is causing a fatal loss of oil pressure.

Front pressure regulator?

Rear pressure regulator?

Any problems with the oil pump?

Bearings clocked properly in the stationary gears?

Proper placement of the front cover O-ring?

 

front pressure regulator is there, i couldn't tell u if it worked or not... rear regulator has been tested at 95 psi... have a high capacity oil pump thats still in great shape, and atkins installed all bearings

 

did u put the gasket between the block and the oil pickup tube? i caught myself in what could have been a major screw up when i built mine. i somehow lost this gasket for mine so i took some gasket material and made one. after getting the engine in the car, it came to mind, did i cut the center hole in that gasket? so i took the oil pan back off and sure enough, i didn't.

 

i did

 

Bad oil cooler?

 

oil passages in the e-shaft alowing oil thru to the bearings? did u spin the engine over to get an indication of oil pressure before u actually started it up?

 

I'm sure he did.

This is such an oddity. It's really causing me to question what you could have done/not done each and every time, and how it compares to my rebuilds.

The white truck's engine got a set of used rotor housings and a gasket set after it overheated, and it's been running fine since I installed it in Feb. The red truck's engine was a core that I rebuilt recently and dropped it in a project car where it was driven a total of 6 miles so far (to test a piston to rotary conversion... which was succesful). Now it's finally in the red truck and it'll run again soon.

So what did we do differently? Very weird.

 

i've had 3 different E shafts now... and the first 2 times i didn't ever think of checking the oil pressure, this time the oil pressure line had broken, so my oil pressure guage was out of commission... but when i had been driving it 20 minutes before i went to my gf's, i thought it was safe to assume it was running properly this time... 10 minutes later it seizes up... so friggin weird...

 

Clogged E-shaft would not account for the main bearings wiping out as well as the rotor bearings.

Here's a thought. Change the oil pump. Might be possible that the shaft has sheared the key to its rotors or even to the sprocket.

 

well i did put some WD40 into it and spin it, it spat out the WD40 no probs... i knwo thats not really a great way to check an oil pump but at least it was doing something... i dunno, i got a high capacity oil pump in my SE motor that has yet to be assembled, but i'm relucatant to salvage that motor since its in such amazing shape... i'd rather build it and put it in my 84 GSL...