Gauging interest in RX-2, 3, 4 suspension parts
08-25-06, 03:21 PM
#1
No distributor? No thanks
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Gauging interest in RX-2, 3, 4 suspension parts
Guys,
I'm thinking about getting some swaybar spacer blocks made and looking to see if anyone else is interested. RB used to make them, but can no longer cast the parts and has no interest in doing so. I've designed a set and would like to ask RESpeed to make some. If anyone else is interested, let me know. These would be CNC machined rather than RB's cast parts. They used to be known as RB's Stage 1 kit for the RX-2 back when they were for sale. If y'all want to offset the position of the swaybar and move it forward for more caster (helpful with wider wheels or slicks), that's an option too.
Attached image is from my CAD model.
I'm thinking about getting some swaybar spacer blocks made and looking to see if anyone else is interested. RB used to make them, but can no longer cast the parts and has no interest in doing so. I've designed a set and would like to ask RESpeed to make some. If anyone else is interested, let me know. These would be CNC machined rather than RB's cast parts. They used to be known as RB's Stage 1 kit for the RX-2 back when they were for sale. If y'all want to offset the position of the swaybar and move it forward for more caster (helpful with wider wheels or slicks), that's an option too.
Attached image is from my CAD model.
Last edited by Crit; 08-25-06 at 03:40 PM.
08-25-06, 03:28 PM
#2
No distributor? No thanks
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Oh, and these correct a quirk of our cars. Because the swaybar is a loaded member and is what locates the hub front-to-rear, it is the sole component that sets our caster. Because it's inclined downward as it approaches the hub, it levels out under braking and cornering. Because it's moving in an arc, it actually pushes the hub back, and you lose caster as you brake or corner.
As you lose caster, you will lose the centering force that the weight of the car exerts on the steering, so it basically feels heavier as you corner harder. It also induces more understeer, because you're losing caster on the outside wheel and gaining it on the inside. The blocks move the swaybar down and slightly forward so that it's closer to level. On a stock ride-height car, the swaybar is made level under moderate braking, which does away with all the variable caster nonsense.
As you lose caster, you will lose the centering force that the weight of the car exerts on the steering, so it basically feels heavier as you corner harder. It also induces more understeer, because you're losing caster on the outside wheel and gaining it on the inside. The blocks move the swaybar down and slightly forward so that it's closer to level. On a stock ride-height car, the swaybar is made level under moderate braking, which does away with all the variable caster nonsense.
Last edited by Crit; 08-25-06 at 03:30 PM.
08-27-06, 12:00 PM
#5
Hey guys.
If we can get 5 or so orders we will run them for $50 per set. This price is good for the non-offset units like shown in the drawing above.
We will run them from billet aluminum as Crit posted. We would like to get enough interest to run them this week or the next. Not sure if we will stock these after this deal, so get them while you can.
-billy
If we can get 5 or so orders we will run them for $50 per set. This price is good for the non-offset units like shown in the drawing above.
We will run them from billet aluminum as Crit posted. We would like to get enough interest to run them this week or the next. Not sure if we will stock these after this deal, so get them while you can.
-billy
08-27-06, 01:30 PM
#7
Rx-hippie
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Torrance CA
Posts: 2,076
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd be instrested as well, but on your drawing.. loooks like your just moving it down. I beleive the RB had it down and foward to increase caster..
Will these just be a spacer, or will they also be spaced and pushed forward?
Will these just be a spacer, or will they also be spaced and pushed forward?
Trending Topics
08-27-06, 01:56 PM
#8
No distributor? No thanks
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
They didn't pull the swaybar forward in the RX-2 kit. The straight spacers can no longer be made by RB because they've lost or damaged the fixtures used to cast them and have told me that they're not worth remaking. Offset blocks (sold for RX-3 and 4) would add quite a bit of caster and are still available from RB.
08-27-06, 07:02 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Jaime Enriquez
How about some 1" bumpsteer spacers? Jesuscookies has a set that can be copied for the Rx2 pattern. The others I've seen are either in Oz or for 1st gens.
We can do the turn in/ bump steer spacers. All I need is a steering arm to measure from.
I can measure Crit's car and do them, if we can get some guys interested.
Crit, these would go between the stut housing and the steering arm. They bring the control arm back down to proper angle and hight after lowering the car. You need some of these as well
-billy
Last edited by Re-Speed.com; 08-27-06 at 07:07 PM.
08-27-06, 08:03 PM
#13
No distributor? No thanks
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Oh, so a bumpsteer kit is typically for lowered cars, so that you can move the hub closer to the body but move the steering arms down the same amount? That makes sense.
I've noticed, however, that my steering linkage is higher in the middle of the car (pitman and idler) than at the steering arms, so I'd expect that when the front compresses, the tie rods level out and push both steering arms out which would get the car a little cross-eyed.
If that's the case, I'd need to either move the center link down off the pitman and idler, or move the steering arm pickup higher. Would it be possible to find bigger tie rod ends and reverse the direction of the taper on the steering arm? That way one could mount their tie rod ends above the steering arm and keep the linkage closer to level.
I've noticed, however, that my steering linkage is higher in the middle of the car (pitman and idler) than at the steering arms, so I'd expect that when the front compresses, the tie rods level out and push both steering arms out which would get the car a little cross-eyed.
If that's the case, I'd need to either move the center link down off the pitman and idler, or move the steering arm pickup higher. Would it be possible to find bigger tie rod ends and reverse the direction of the taper on the steering arm? That way one could mount their tie rod ends above the steering arm and keep the linkage closer to level.
08-27-06, 09:10 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Crit
Oh, so a bumpsteer kit is typically for lowered cars, so that you can move the hub closer to the body but move the steering arms down the same amount? That makes sense.
I've noticed, however, that my steering linkage is higher in the middle of the car (pitman and idler) than at the steering arms, so I'd expect that when the front compresses, the tie rods level out and push both steering arms out which would get the car a little cross-eyed.
If that's the case, I'd need to either move the center link down off the pitman and idler, or move the steering arm pickup higher. Would it be possible to find bigger tie rod ends and reverse the direction of the taper on the steering arm? That way one could mount their tie rod ends above the steering arm and keep the linkage closer to level.
I've noticed, however, that my steering linkage is higher in the middle of the car (pitman and idler) than at the steering arms, so I'd expect that when the front compresses, the tie rods level out and push both steering arms out which would get the car a little cross-eyed.
If that's the case, I'd need to either move the center link down off the pitman and idler, or move the steering arm pickup higher. Would it be possible to find bigger tie rod ends and reverse the direction of the taper on the steering arm? That way one could mount their tie rod ends above the steering arm and keep the linkage closer to level.
-billy
08-28-06, 01:05 AM
#15
Billy: THAT WOULD BE AWESOME!!!
...and something we all need with lowered cars and don't realize it. The ones I have seen are from Xtreme in Oz and are 3/4 inch, but with really low Rx2's...1 inch may be better, especially when using "other than Rx2" strut inserts and/or coilovers.
...and something we all need with lowered cars and don't realize it. The ones I have seen are from Xtreme in Oz and are 3/4 inch, but with really low Rx2's...1 inch may be better, especially when using "other than Rx2" strut inserts and/or coilovers.
08-29-06, 08:21 AM
#16
Australian Idle
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here are some bits I have waiting to go under my 73 rx2.
Whiteline swaybar 24mm, threaded end for caster adjustment, part bmf92 from Whiteline www.whiteline.com.au
Noltec solid adjustable strut tops part n44012s from www.noltec.com.au
Caster blocks by ASK. No website but purchased from Stuie @ RX Performance http://rotor.rxperformance.com.au/
In Aussie dollars the parts are around $200 for the swaybar, and $45 for the blocks. Retail on the strut tops can go $650, but places like Xtreme Rotaries list them for $400. I have seen them as low as around $300 but that was a mates rates combined with a degree of "well I didn't really like working there anyway".
Whiteline, or at least one of their agents, do strut braces for the old school Mazdas, but with top mount IC's and any manner of inlets and engine locations it can be a bit hit and miss with fitments. http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...c.php?t=110671 refers.
Whiteline swaybar 24mm, threaded end for caster adjustment, part bmf92 from Whiteline www.whiteline.com.au
Noltec solid adjustable strut tops part n44012s from www.noltec.com.au
Caster blocks by ASK. No website but purchased from Stuie @ RX Performance http://rotor.rxperformance.com.au/
In Aussie dollars the parts are around $200 for the swaybar, and $45 for the blocks. Retail on the strut tops can go $650, but places like Xtreme Rotaries list them for $400. I have seen them as low as around $300 but that was a mates rates combined with a degree of "well I didn't really like working there anyway".
Whiteline, or at least one of their agents, do strut braces for the old school Mazdas, but with top mount IC's and any manner of inlets and engine locations it can be a bit hit and miss with fitments. http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...c.php?t=110671 refers.
08-30-06, 11:57 AM
#17
Anyone ready?
Reminder, these are the non offset blocks. They are $50.00 per set plus $4.00 shipping within the US. I have run 5 sets and 3 of them are up for grabs.
I can run more if we get more than the 3 people who want them.
Also, can we get a count on how many people would like the 1" thick turn in spacers. I can run them next week.
-billy
Reminder, these are the non offset blocks. They are $50.00 per set plus $4.00 shipping within the US. I have run 5 sets and 3 of them are up for grabs.
I can run more if we get more than the 3 people who want them.
Also, can we get a count on how many people would like the 1" thick turn in spacers. I can run them next week.
-billy
08-30-06, 12:13 PM
#18
What Subscription?
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
09-01-06, 12:13 AM
#24
Put me down for a set as well. I'll even buy a set of the offset ones when you run them. I like playing around with my suspension and at that price why not?
You can send me a pending payment at vlucketti@yahoo.com and my zip code for shipping is 95117.
Thanks,
Vince
You can send me a pending payment at vlucketti@yahoo.com and my zip code for shipping is 95117.
Thanks,
Vince
09-01-06, 02:00 AM
#25
I'd be really interested in a bumpsteer kit also. I still have a set for my old Corolla (sold the car a while ago) and never checked to see how close it is. They're also usually called roll center adjusters or RCA's. They even have Negative Camber RCA's to give even more camber by moving the roll center adjuster outward.
If you make these will you include the extra long bolts required?
If you make these will you include the extra long bolts required?