Fitting new motors to old RX's
02-02-06, 08:44 AM
#46
Originally Posted by P-nut
multirotor has the engine pushed foward and islandnow has it in the stock locatoin.I think stock location is better and less work.
Stock tranny
Notching the front engine mount bracket wil keep the shifter in the original location. If you decide not to notch it, then the engine will move back and tranny mod is required.
81+
Shifter is further back so you will need to modify the shifter hole again and mod tranny mount. To keep it in stock location, then mod the remote shifter as the above posts.
If you dont slot the front bracket, then the engine will move about an inch back. Pay attention in the clutch slave/fork as it may get too close to the firewall and tranny mods are required. In addition, the shifter will get close to the handbrake. With the handbrake, you can mod a 626 handbrake (remove about 2 inches from the middle, re-welded back and shortened the handbrake release rod).
Again, a RX-2 is a different ball game than a RX-3 due to cramp engine bay. For N/A application, moving the engine back is NOT necessary but for turbo, its a must to make room for E-fan/radiator/IC.
I hate long post.
02-02-06, 09:41 AM
#47
Originally Posted by multirotor
My pictures are from my Rx-2, not my Rx-3.
As you can see the Rx-2 tranny mount was slightly modified (holes slotted).
Since that was not enough, I also inversed the 79 rubber tranny mounting block. That block is not 100% vertical so I did win about half an inch there too.
Did you use the original Rx-3 driveshaft ?
Is the shifter position the same as before ?
As you can see the Rx-2 tranny mount was slightly modified (holes slotted).
Since that was not enough, I also inversed the 79 rubber tranny mounting block. That block is not 100% vertical so I did win about half an inch there too.
Did you use the original Rx-3 driveshaft ?
Is the shifter position the same as before ?
02-02-06, 10:22 AM
#48
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heres what needed to be done to shorten the t2 tail end.
Measure the bolt holes, It is much easier to measure from one end to the other when measuring center hole to center hole ( but you already know it's 4"). Youll need to remove the shifter collar off the shifter shaft, to do this you'll need to remove the access hole on the other side of the housing and align dowel pin towards it, that's the only way it will come out. The third picture shows I shorten the housing and the tube by 4". You then need to move the dowell pin location extactly 4" forward and shorten shaft. Try not to damage the rubber gromett when removing it off the tube you'll need it and make sure the trany is in nuetral when taking the tail end off.
The last picture will give you an idea what exactly needed to be done. Now get to work....
Measure the bolt holes, It is much easier to measure from one end to the other when measuring center hole to center hole ( but you already know it's 4"). Youll need to remove the shifter collar off the shifter shaft, to do this you'll need to remove the access hole on the other side of the housing and align dowel pin towards it, that's the only way it will come out. The third picture shows I shorten the housing and the tube by 4". You then need to move the dowell pin location extactly 4" forward and shorten shaft. Try not to damage the rubber gromett when removing it off the tube you'll need it and make sure the trany is in nuetral when taking the tail end off.
The last picture will give you an idea what exactly needed to be done. Now get to work....
02-02-06, 12:22 PM
#50
Originally Posted by islandsnow
heres what needed to be done to shorten the t2 tail end.
Measure the bolt holes, It is much easier to measure from one end to the other when measuring center hole to center hole ( but you already know it's 4"). Youll need to remove the shifter collar off the shifter shaft, to do this you'll need to remove the access hole on the other side of the housing and align dowel pin towards it, that's the only way it will come out. The third picture shows I shorten the housing and the tube by 4". You then need to move the dowell pin location extactly 4" forward and shorten shaft. Try not to damage the rubber gromett when removing it off the tube you'll need it and make sure the trany is in nuetral when taking the tail end off.
The last picture will give you an idea what exactly needed to be done. Now get to work....
Measure the bolt holes, It is much easier to measure from one end to the other when measuring center hole to center hole ( but you already know it's 4"). Youll need to remove the shifter collar off the shifter shaft, to do this you'll need to remove the access hole on the other side of the housing and align dowel pin towards it, that's the only way it will come out. The third picture shows I shorten the housing and the tube by 4". You then need to move the dowell pin location extactly 4" forward and shorten shaft. Try not to damage the rubber gromett when removing it off the tube you'll need it and make sure the trany is in nuetral when taking the tail end off.
The last picture will give you an idea what exactly needed to be done. Now get to work....
02-02-06, 09:34 PM
#52
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Not to derail this topic, but is there a similar one somewhere dealing with retrofitting later suspension/hubs/brakes to earlier rotaries? I would really, really love to ditch the rear drums and weirdo 4x110 bolt pattern for something a little more common...
02-03-06, 06:23 AM
#54
Originally Posted by islandsnow
On my rx3 I used the T2 transmission and shorten the tail end 4". This way I didnt have to move the motor forward and the shifter is not too close to parking brake. still left me plenty of room in the front for my elecric fan. But I had to fab a new braket for the transmission.
is this the 2 or 3? the T2 trannys must be slightly longer in overall length. when i did this mod to an '83 tranny several years back, the shifter was much better located in the hole in the floor than urs.
02-03-06, 09:09 AM
#55
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Originally Posted by wackyracer
I have no pix of my RX-3 with FB front brakes/coil overs & RE Speed camber kit. But here's soemthing to start with.. a RX-2 with disk brakes.
02-03-06, 09:27 AM
#56
Thats using RotaryPower's bracket (originally it was Vince's idea) and FB rotors/calipers/e-brake cables.
On a separate issue, last Sunday, I test fitted a FB strut on a RX-4. The FB strut tower fits on a RX-4. So there ya go RX-4 lovers. Another option there.
On a separate issue, last Sunday, I test fitted a FB strut on a RX-4. The FB strut tower fits on a RX-4. So there ya go RX-4 lovers. Another option there.
02-03-06, 09:29 AM
#57
Originally Posted by islandsnow
Heres the my original post and it was explained by 13btnos on how its done, I also posted some pictures before and after. Its not that hard to do once you start taking the rear tail apart. What I dont recomend is using a hand drill to drill the new hole for the dowel pin, it has to be perfectly acurate or it will not work. I'll post more pictures later.
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/t2-trany-rx3-479612/
https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/t2-trany-rx3-479612/
02-03-06, 02:25 PM
#58
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Hey Mel, you should start a new thread and type up all of your old school rotary car knowledge.
Liike what kinda of brakes could be retro fitted, and how.
What kind of suspention.. Ryan keeps telling to swap in a FB suspention into my rx-2.. but HOW?!?
Liike what kinda of brakes could be retro fitted, and how.
What kind of suspention.. Ryan keeps telling to swap in a FB suspention into my rx-2.. but HOW?!?
02-03-06, 03:20 PM
#59
Originally Posted by trainwreck517
Hey Mel, you should start a new thread and type up all of your old school rotary car knowledge.
Liike what kinda of brakes could be retro fitted, and how.
What kind of suspention.. Ryan keeps telling to swap in a FB suspention into my rx-2.. but HOW?!?
Liike what kinda of brakes could be retro fitted, and how.
What kind of suspention.. Ryan keeps telling to swap in a FB suspention into my rx-2.. but HOW?!?
with the brakes, you can use 79 RX-7 which has the same thread pitch. Im not sure if there is a camber kit for a RX-2 but if there is, you can use 81-85 and either flare the stock brake line/use FB brake fitting OR get a custom line (SA female/FB male ends).
Yeah, Ryan mentioned his buddy's RX-2 to me but $$$$$ involved. Currently, I have lots of ideas but not enough time. What I actually have in mind is to cut the FB's lower strut housing/brake and weld it back to the RX-2. Got the idea from the 510 boys.
02-03-06, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wackyracer
with the brakes, you can use 79 RX-7 which has the same thread pitch. Im not sure if there is a camber kit for a RX-2 but if there is, you can use 81-85 and either flare the stock brake line/use FB brake fitting OR get a custom line (SA female/FB male ends).
I've recently converted my XR4Ti from rear drums to rear disks, and swapped the front mini-calipers to quite large 2-piston Mustang units, so I understand conceptually what's involved in brake swaps...