I've been searching, but couldn't really find anything. Lately (the past year or so), I have been thinking of another project now since I got my LS1 FD out of the way.

1970ish Chevy Luv mini truck with Built NA LS1/300shot nitrous, 1992 Nissan mini truck with RB or 1/2JZ w/ T88, or 240z with LS1 - those were some of the choices, BUT I've always liked the NA built rotaries and the F1-like sound as they go down the track.

Now, I have experience with race cars, etc. but there are some questions I have since I really don't have experience with 3/4th's bodied cars. In mind, I have an RX3/wagon or a Datsun 510 (more suggestions are welcome as well).

Which would be best and why? - kind of a vague questions I guess, since it'll be pretty much built up, right?

Parts. Which are "easily/readily" avaible without breaking the bank "too" hard?

Also - I want to go NA 13B on the juice, with that said I've gotten many recommendations as to what type of porting should be done. I've gotten P-port and B-port.

What type of porting would you recommend? maybe, why?

On a decently/good built NA 13B, what would be the "safest" shot or the most I'd be able to go with without really stressing the engine TOO much?

Also, EMS/ECU, any recommendations? If this isn't the right section for this, Mods please move, thanks.

Also, let me throw this out there - one of the main reasons I decided on this is because of the Crispeed vids, so maybe he can come in and give some advice!

 

you and your LSx FD...

 

si

 

he wants to go rotary..thats a good thing..20b b-port,,im sure you got the money

 

I got some book knowledge for you. For detailed questions ask the people who actually do this stuff.
People like the datsun for its light weight. Good drag car I bet. Miata is also light and has a nice suspension. Besides that I dunno.

A street port gives good power across all rpms, without hurting mpg or emissions too much.
A bridge port gives even more power but not much on the low rpms and it hurts mpg & emissions quite a bit.
A peripheral port is better than a bridge port, with the same problems, but it costs a bit more.

Additionally you can get finely balanced rotors for a higher redline. You need to port first to get any decent power up top, though. On that matter I read the 787B (N/A peripheral ported 4 rotor Lemans winning car) could make more power at 10500rpm+ but it raced below 9000rpm for reliability reasons. A 20B gives more power than a 13B, of course. A peripheral ported 20B with nicely balanced rotors would give the most N/A power you can buy. I've heard of tweaked out N/A 13B's going no higher than 300HP, though I'd imagine a safely tuned one would put out less (250HP?). The 20B starts out stock at 300HP and goes up from there :-D.

I think there is an ECU specific forum section you can check. I forget what's popular now. Reliable tuning involves the same considerations as a piston engine, I imagine: not too lean and not too advanced. Except rotaries are much more sensitive to knocking, so you need to be a little more conservative to make sure knocking never happens.

 

I have a RX3 wagon for sale if your interested let me know.

Thanks
Albert

 

i've seen plenty of 12a's and 13b's go over 300hp without boost nor nitrous..go to the pan american nationals and they're are some crazy na 13b and 12 a's...