rajahFD

I've been searching, but couldn't really find anything. Lately (the past year or so), I have been thinking of another project now since I got my LS1 FD out of the way.

1970ish Chevy Luv mini truck with Built NA LS1/300shot nitrous, 1992 Nissan mini truck with RB or 1/2JZ w/ T88, or 240z with LS1 - those were some of the choices, BUT I've always liked the NA built rotaries and the F1-like sound as they go down the track.

Now, I have experience with race cars, etc. but there are some questions I have since I really don't have experience with 3/4th's bodied cars. In mind, I have an RX3/wagon or a Datsun 510 (more suggestions are welcome as well).

Which would be best and why? - kind of a vague questions I guess, since it'll be pretty much built up, right?

Parts. Which are "easily/readily" avaible without breaking the bank "too" hard?

Also - I want to go NA 13B on the juice, with that said I've gotten many recommendations as to what type of porting should be done. I've gotten P-port and B-port.

What type of porting would you recommend? maybe, why?

On a decently/good built NA 13B, what would be the "safest" shot or the most I'd be able to go with without really stressing the engine TOO much?

Also, EMS/ECU, any recommendations? If this isn't the right section for this, Mods please move, thanks.

Also, let me throw this out there - one of the main reasons I decided on this is because of the Crispeed vids, so maybe he can come in and give some advice!

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

you and your LSx FD...

rajahFD

si

Sobr609

iTrader: (2)

he wants to go rotary..thats a good thing..20b b-port,,im sure you got the money

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I got some book knowledge for you. For detailed questions ask the people who actually do this stuff.
People like the datsun for its light weight. Good drag car I bet. Miata is also light and has a nice suspension. Besides that I dunno.

A street port gives good power across all rpms, without hurting mpg or emissions too much.
A bridge port gives even more power but not much on the low rpms and it hurts mpg & emissions quite a bit.
A peripheral port is better than a bridge port, with the same problems, but it costs a bit more.

Additionally you can get finely balanced rotors for a higher redline. You need to port first to get any decent power up top, though. On that matter I read the 787B (N/A peripheral ported 4 rotor Lemans winning car) could make more power at 10500rpm+ but it raced below 9000rpm for reliability reasons. A 20B gives more power than a 13B, of course. A peripheral ported 20B with nicely balanced rotors would give the most N/A power you can buy. I've heard of tweaked out N/A 13B's going no higher than 300HP, though I'd imagine a safely tuned one would put out less (250HP?). The 20B starts out stock at 300HP and goes up from there :-D.

I think there is an ECU specific forum section you can check. I forget what's popular now. Reliable tuning involves the same considerations as a piston engine, I imagine: not too lean and not too advanced. Except rotaries are much more sensitive to knocking, so you need to be a little more conservative to make sure knocking never happens.

rotaryengineering

I have a RX3 wagon for sale if your interested let me know.

Thanks
Albert

Sobr609

iTrader: (2)

i've seen plenty of 12a's and 13b's go over 300hp without boost nor nitrous..go to the pan american nationals and they're are some crazy na 13b and 12 a's...