AE86 + 12a?
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Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
AE86 + 12a?
I found a AE86 corolla around my house (GTS with the 4a-ge) thats in pretty good shape (clean body, interior and frame) The owner wants 1500 for it. I was gonna buy it and leave it the way it was, but has anybody ever put a 12a in on of these cars before? I think that would be awesome. I would deffinately have more power with a few bolt ons, and I love the weedwacker sound.
Sorry I didnt put his in other rotary, but that forum seems kind of slooow.
Sorry I didnt put his in other rotary, but that forum seems kind of slooow.
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I say go for it. The 12A is way smaller than the 4A-GE, makes close to the same stock power, and should be lighter. Check measurements and clearances (ie: suspension/steering components) before diving headfirst though. Shouldn't be a problem if you've got the time and skill. Good luck
Terrified.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,463
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From: Muncie, IN
I don't see why you'd put a stock 12A into an AE86. If you ported it, I could definitely see why.
It would make for one fun car though. I say do it, but go all out and port the 12A, do a carb that flows more, and make sure to get rid of all the emissions.
It would make for one fun car though. I say do it, but go all out and port the 12A, do a carb that flows more, and make sure to get rid of all the emissions.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: north carolina
if this guy ( http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...x/DSCN0830.jpg )could put a 13b-t into one, i cant see why a 12a wouldn't fit
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From: texas
it would almost be better to get the non gts one and use it. they had one that was the exact same as the gts except that it didnt have lsd, and it was a different carbed motor. that would most likely be easier to do that since you wont have to change the fuel pump, and could use the stock one. plus you can probably find one of them cheaper than a real gts.
Terrified.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,463
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From: Muncie, IN
^The suspension is much softer as well, along with rims that don't host as wide of tires. If I am remembering correctly, the lug pattern is different as well for the GT-S and all the non-GT-S AE86's. Regardless, it is still a fun car as I've driven both models. The GT-S is just a lot more fun.
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Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
I wonder if it would be better to keep the mazda trans or use the toyotas. I'm guessing I would need custom engine mounts and a custom bellhousing(if i kept the toyota trans) I think i'm gonna go for it.
And it shall be called the Rotorolla!!!
And it shall be called the Rotorolla!!!
swap
Me and my friend are in the middle of a 13b swap into a ae86. It should be a fairly easy swap keep the tranny and your might need a diff. If ur going to go with a 12a the diff should be strong enough in the corolla.
Theres a vid of an 3rotor in an Ae86 on youtube. The 3rotor had 600ps its sick.
Theres a vid of an 3rotor in an Ae86 on youtube. The 3rotor had 600ps its sick.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
heres a few pics of my yota
wont be exactly as your corolla but should be close enough to get a good idea on whats instore for your swap. It all really depends on how far you want the motor to sit. Its alot easier the further forward you go. But I wanted my weight to be back as far as I could.
wont be exactly as your corolla but should be close enough to get a good idea on whats instore for your swap. It all really depends on how far you want the motor to sit. Its alot easier the further forward you go. But I wanted my weight to be back as far as I could.
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From: texas
i would keep the mazda motor and tranny together and just get a different driveshaft made. you could just position the motor so that the shifter is in the same place as the stock toyota one and just make the motor and tranny mounts to fit it there.
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
Yeah thats what I was planning on doing. I hope I dont have to do any firewall modification.
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
heres a few pics of my yota
wont be exactly as your corolla but should be close enough to get a good idea on whats instore for your swap. It all really depends on how far you want the motor to sit. Its alot easier the further forward you go. But I wanted my weight to be back as far as I could.
wont be exactly as your corolla but should be close enough to get a good idea on whats instore for your swap. It all really depends on how far you want the motor to sit. Its alot easier the further forward you go. But I wanted my weight to be back as far as I could.
Ok I didnt notice it at first, but you cut out the entire transmission tunnel!! If I can just get the balance to be around the same as the stock 4, thats fine with me.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Cleveland, TN
the one thing i noticed was that the stock toy tranny was shorter then a mazda so when the shifter was lined back up in th orginal hole the motor just seemed way to far forward fo me anyway. But I seen several other toyos that did just that and they where happy with it. So its really just how bad you want the weight shifted back behing the front wheels. You can probally find a happy medium and just cut the hole further back without totally removing the tunnel. If you want any more pics just ask I have a few more. I know when I was starting I was looking for alot of pics to get some different ideas.
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From: RAINELLE WV
dont need to go that far with the fire wall and stuff.. I done it before... Just need a bed frame and a custom tranny frame...Wish i had pics but i dont.......I had 12a and also 13b in my AE86...I drill two hole on the bed frame for the enigne once you have that need to weld a plate to get the two bottom bolt of the engine... Drop the crossmember 3 inch down.. Add a thick metal plate between the crossmember and the car frame... Drop the enige and measure where you want to drill the hole at the end of the bed frame to the car frame..... Once you get the tranny in just have to make a custom brace to hold the tranny up
it would almost be better to get the non gts one and use it. they had one that was the exact same as the gts except that it didnt have lsd, and it was a different carbed motor. that would most likely be easier to do that since you wont have to change the fuel pump, and could use the stock one. plus you can probably find one of them cheaper than a real gts.
SR5's have a mehcanical pump driven by a cam and is bolted to the head of the
3A-C good luck re-using it. The 4A-GE makes more power and has an almost identical powerband to the 12A. There is no real point to it, is it were a 13b-T I would say go for it. But you are going to do alot of work for a little reward.
The 4A-GE doesnt have a typical fart can sound, so I would keep it. The transmission has better gear ratios and cant be reused on the 12A. And for the same amount of time and money 4A-GEs can make as much power as a bridged 12A, besides the fact you could swap in a 4A-GZE or a 20 valve 4A-GE and easily make more power than a 12A or a 16 valve 4A-GE and you will do half as much work.
Not trying to say this is a stupid idea, but man you are talking about a TON of work to end up with an engine that make 12 less horsepower stock for stock, and gets half the gas mileage. And when it comes to peak power when modified, they are damn near even. You have other easier options as I listed or you could go with a 13b-T swap which in the end is pretty even with a 4A-GZE (with the exception of much better mileage) or you could just go crazy and do a 20b swap. Which would be awesome, but you could also do a 2JZ swap.
Like I said, I would check out your options before settling on a 12A.
Just my $0.02
Thread Starter
Environmentally-Hostile
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Ennis/Arlington Texas
SR5's have a mehcanical pump driven by a cam and is bolted to the head of the
3A-C good luck re-using it. The 4A-GE makes more power and has an almost identical powerband to the 12A. There is no real point to it, is it were a 13b-T I would say go for it. But you are going to do alot of work for a little reward.
The 4A-GE doesnt have a typical fart can sound, so I would keep it. The transmission has better gear ratios and cant be reused on the 12A. And for the same amount of time and money 4A-GEs can make as much power as a bridged 12A, besides the fact you could swap in a 4A-GZE or a 20 valve 4A-GE and easily make more power than a 12A or a 16 valve 4A-GE and you will do half as much work.
Not trying to say this is a stupid idea, but man you are talking about a TON of work to end up with an engine that make 12 less horsepower stock for stock, and gets half the gas mileage. And when it comes to peak power when modified, they are damn near even. You have other easier options as I listed or you could go with a 13b-T swap which in the end is pretty even with a 4A-GZE (with the exception of much better mileage) or you could just go crazy and do a 20b swap. Which would be awesome, but you could also do a 2JZ swap.
Like I said, I would check out your options before settling on a 12A.
Just my $0.02
3A-C good luck re-using it. The 4A-GE makes more power and has an almost identical powerband to the 12A. There is no real point to it, is it were a 13b-T I would say go for it. But you are going to do alot of work for a little reward.
The 4A-GE doesnt have a typical fart can sound, so I would keep it. The transmission has better gear ratios and cant be reused on the 12A. And for the same amount of time and money 4A-GEs can make as much power as a bridged 12A, besides the fact you could swap in a 4A-GZE or a 20 valve 4A-GE and easily make more power than a 12A or a 16 valve 4A-GE and you will do half as much work.
Not trying to say this is a stupid idea, but man you are talking about a TON of work to end up with an engine that make 12 less horsepower stock for stock, and gets half the gas mileage. And when it comes to peak power when modified, they are damn near even. You have other easier options as I listed or you could go with a 13b-T swap which in the end is pretty even with a 4A-GZE (with the exception of much better mileage) or you could just go crazy and do a 20b swap. Which would be awesome, but you could also do a 2JZ swap.
Like I said, I would check out your options before settling on a 12A.
Just my $0.02
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 70
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From: South Edmonton, AB
YEAH... a 13bt, with even a stock turbo, will still put out a lot more power than a 4agze... it's not even close! 
For the time and money, u are right about the 12aa being a waste of time, IMO. An NA 13b ported or 13bt would be a great project. 13bt can produce easily 250 rwhp with only minor mods...
For the time and money, u are right about the 12aa being a waste of time, IMO. An NA 13b ported or 13bt would be a great project. 13bt can produce easily 250 rwhp with only minor mods...SR5's have a mehcanical pump driven by a cam and is bolted to the head of the
3A-C good luck re-using it. The 4A-GE makes more power and has an almost identical powerband to the 12A. There is no real point to it, is it were a 13b-T I would say go for it. But you are going to do alot of work for a little reward.
The 4A-GE doesnt have a typical fart can sound, so I would keep it. The transmission has better gear ratios and cant be reused on the 12A. And for the same amount of time and money 4A-GEs can make as much power as a bridged 12A, besides the fact you could swap in a 4A-GZE or a 20 valve 4A-GE and easily make more power than a 12A or a 16 valve 4A-GE and you will do half as much work.
Not trying to say this is a stupid idea, but man you are talking about a TON of work to end up with an engine that make 12 less horsepower stock for stock, and gets half the gas mileage. And when it comes to peak power when modified, they are damn near even. You have other easier options as I listed or you could go with a 13b-T swap which in the end is pretty even with a 4A-GZE (with the exception of much better mileage) or you could just go crazy and do a 20b swap. Which would be awesome, but you could also do a 2JZ swap.
Like I said, I would check out your options before settling on a 12A.
Just my $0.02
3A-C good luck re-using it. The 4A-GE makes more power and has an almost identical powerband to the 12A. There is no real point to it, is it were a 13b-T I would say go for it. But you are going to do alot of work for a little reward.
The 4A-GE doesnt have a typical fart can sound, so I would keep it. The transmission has better gear ratios and cant be reused on the 12A. And for the same amount of time and money 4A-GEs can make as much power as a bridged 12A, besides the fact you could swap in a 4A-GZE or a 20 valve 4A-GE and easily make more power than a 12A or a 16 valve 4A-GE and you will do half as much work.
Not trying to say this is a stupid idea, but man you are talking about a TON of work to end up with an engine that make 12 less horsepower stock for stock, and gets half the gas mileage. And when it comes to peak power when modified, they are damn near even. You have other easier options as I listed or you could go with a 13b-T swap which in the end is pretty even with a 4A-GZE (with the exception of much better mileage) or you could just go crazy and do a 20b swap. Which would be awesome, but you could also do a 2JZ swap.
Like I said, I would check out your options before settling on a 12A.
Just my $0.02