'74 13B rebuild and swap into a 1979 SA ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,660
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From: winnipeg, Manitoba
The intermediate and rear irons look OK to me but not sure . There isn't any scoring just some "images" of the rotor on the faces . Not sure what else to look for .
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 6
From: winnipeg, Manitoba
The rear housing has some chrome missing on the front bottom of it . its about 2mm wide and about 2 - 3 cm long . I've seen this on another housing that someone said can be toerated for a rebuild . Any comments ????? The rest of the houding look OK . All the coolent grooves on both sides of both housings are intact .
I don't have pics of the rear rotor but it was carbined bad, no scoring evident and no rust like on the front rotor.
I don't have pics of the rear rotor but it was carbined bad, no scoring evident and no rust like on the front rotor.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 6
From: winnipeg, Manitoba
The eshaft is last set of pics and I am not sure about what I have . The only trouble I had with the teardown was getting the eshaft out . I could not get the intermediate plate off by lifting the eshaft up as it seemed the rear rotor was sitting up to high on the e-shaft ??? for the iron to clear it . I had to pull the Iron and the shaft and rear rotor out together . I had to hit the rear rotor down with a rubber mallet to get it off the eshaft .
the pics below show some scoring on shaft edges and the Bearing? at the end of the shaft is scored and stuck on it ....... So , How bad is this ??????
the pics below show some scoring on shaft edges and the Bearing? at the end of the shaft is scored and stuck on it ....... So , How bad is this ??????
You're probably going to need another shaft.
Look toward the bottom of each plate for soft iron. If water got on the plates, it will weaken where it sat the longest. A razor blade or oftena fingernail is a good test.
Rotor housings look good, as they usually are on '74-'75 engines.
A wire wheel can work wonders on that rusty rotor (on the faces). A box cutter razor blade, curved slightly, can remove stubborn stuck side seals by breaking them out in pieces.
Look toward the bottom of each plate for soft iron. If water got on the plates, it will weaken where it sat the longest. A razor blade or oftena fingernail is a good test.
Rotor housings look good, as they usually are on '74-'75 engines.
A wire wheel can work wonders on that rusty rotor (on the faces). A box cutter razor blade, curved slightly, can remove stubborn stuck side seals by breaking them out in pieces.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 6
From: winnipeg, Manitoba
thanks Jeff,
i guess that is part of the front main bearing stickng on the end of the shaft . I wonder how that happened . Hope it wasn't during the teardown. If I do need a new shaft , which other year engines can I get one from? ( edit , just found thread confirming that all 13B eshafts are interchangeable)
I was thinking of getting the parts washed in a custom car shops acid hot tank . Any thoughts on this or parts that shouldn't go in there? . I was thinking all the plates , housings , rotors , front cover, intake manifold , dowel pins , shaft , oil pan .
i guess that is part of the front main bearing stickng on the end of the shaft . I wonder how that happened . Hope it wasn't during the teardown. If I do need a new shaft , which other year engines can I get one from? ( edit , just found thread confirming that all 13B eshafts are interchangeable)
I was thinking of getting the parts washed in a custom car shops acid hot tank . Any thoughts on this or parts that shouldn't go in there? . I was thinking all the plates , housings , rotors , front cover, intake manifold , dowel pins , shaft , oil pan .
You can certainly use a later shaft, but be aware that '86+ used a dumb oil thermostat that blocks oil flow to the front rotor when cold to help the engine warm up faster. The fix is an $8 machined aluminum thing that Atkins and Mazdatrix sell. I think it's called the oil pellet. There is also apparently a washer trick that you can do using a washer thus saving $8 if you're into that sort of thing. Others would probably be able to explain it to you as I've never tried it.
I think an acid tank will destroy bearings and anything aluminum. I've never used one and don't see the need to with a rotary since there is no big ugly iron engine block whose oil galleys can get clogged, or whatever the reason is to use one on a boinger.
I like the Viton oil o-rings from Atkins because they're cheaper than stock and seem to work ok for me. Atkins apex seals also seem work fine. You won't be able to find new '74 style seals, but since your housings looked really nice, your seals are probably still in spec. Oil seals should get replaced though since the early non nitrided side plates are very abrasive. Side seals should be ok unless you break them upon removal. Get new ones and carefully trim to about .002" clearance. Corner seals should be good (they're the solid type in '74-'75). Definitely replace all springs and get the competition outer oil springs; I did in my '74-'75 engine and it doesn't smoke. I did replace my oil seals too, of course.
I think an acid tank will destroy bearings and anything aluminum. I've never used one and don't see the need to with a rotary since there is no big ugly iron engine block whose oil galleys can get clogged, or whatever the reason is to use one on a boinger.
I like the Viton oil o-rings from Atkins because they're cheaper than stock and seem to work ok for me. Atkins apex seals also seem work fine. You won't be able to find new '74 style seals, but since your housings looked really nice, your seals are probably still in spec. Oil seals should get replaced though since the early non nitrided side plates are very abrasive. Side seals should be ok unless you break them upon removal. Get new ones and carefully trim to about .002" clearance. Corner seals should be good (they're the solid type in '74-'75). Definitely replace all springs and get the competition outer oil springs; I did in my '74-'75 engine and it doesn't smoke. I did replace my oil seals too, of course.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,660
Likes: 6
From: winnipeg, Manitoba
Just a final update of sorts ...... I abandoned the idea of this engine in the SA
but even better I sold it to a guy up here that has a 76 RX4 coupe , empty shell ... he can make use of all the parts I had for a restoration ( engine , tranny, rad , cooler , starter , alt, driveshaft etc.etc.
but even better I sold it to a guy up here that has a 76 RX4 coupe , empty shell ... he can make use of all the parts I had for a restoration ( engine , tranny, rad , cooler , starter , alt, driveshaft etc.etc.
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