i was just wondering if anyone would happen to know the specifics on a 4 rotor eccentric shaft. im thnkin about attempting to make a four rotor from 12A or 13B engines. i know its hard and expensive but im gonna try till i get it down.

 

Jeff Bruce is the man when it comes to these things. He is in Auckland New Zealand. His company is precision engineering. He gets tons of questions about 4 rotors so don't expect a lot of fluff unless your serious.

 

sweet. thnx

 

If you have had trouble digging up info Grimm, type 4rotor as one word in the search finder, that should yield good results.

 

kiwi-re.com also sells 4-rotor e-shafts.

 

Where do you think they get them from ;-)

 

how much would it cost to get doneish?does anyone know?

 

Yeah, don't waste Jeff's time unless you're serious, have the money, understand the risks and are willing to wait for several months.

I helped a friend piece together a set of side plates and stuff to send to him for machining (or you can have him buy the parts locally, machine them, and ship them to you). The parts we sent him are on their way back from NZ. He shipped them yesterday. We originally sent them last April or May so it's been almost a year. Part of the long wait was due to an exchange rate increase for us (dollar lower, NZD higher), so we had to send a little more money, wait for it to clear blah blah blah.

I've been dreaming about doing a 4 rotor ever since I got a 20B. 3 is cool, but 4 is... cooler. When the oppurtunity came up early last year to present the idea in a nice, polished way to my rotorhead friend, he went for it and here we are just a few days away from receiving the parts. The next step will be in coming up with a set of four peripheral ported rotor housings. We also would like to get the rotating assembly balanced for high RPM use. Maybe lightened too.

It will be a 23A based on 12A parts. This is so it will fit under the hood of a 1st gen. It just squeezes in. The tranny is in the stock location for ease of replacing if/when we break it. The front cover is just above the front sway bar with just enough room to allow for an RB bar or some other thick aftermarket bar. With the alt all the way down against the waterpump, it will fit under the hood (it needs a 30 inch belt like a 30013). Also if I use a CAS or if using a dizzy with a points cap, it will fit under the hood. Direct fire of course. The cap is there to keep dust out and confuse people.

 

I assume by risks you mean no warranty