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That's annoying about the pictures not being visible. I can view them on all my devices, smartphone, tablet and desktop. I haven't changed how I upload images but last few times i used my tablet instead of my smartphone. Next time I upload images I will do it through my smartphone, maybe that might fix the issue.
That's annoying about the pictures not being visible. I can view them on all my devices, smartphone, tablet and desktop. I haven't changed how I upload images but last few times i used my tablet instead of my smartphone. Next time I upload images I will do it through my smartphone, maybe that might fix the issue.
Strangely, now that I go back further, it’s not just your recent posts where the pictures aren’t visible, but all of your pictures from the thread are now gone. They’ve been replaced with small empty squares...?
I’m glad someone else chimed in and it isn’t just me. I don’t have a clue what it could be except possibly that you’re using another site to host the pictures? If you’re uploading directly to rx7club, then I have no clue what is going on.
Not sure whats going on, now i cant see the images. All the images i have uploaded have been done through the Rx7club forum. Must be some issue with the forum?
Not sure whats going on, now i cant see the images. All the images i have uploaded have been done through the Rx7club forum. Must be some issue with the forum?
Well that’s too bad cause I really enjoyed your pictures on this thread...
Pics work fine for me on the laptop and they look amazing haha.. My computer has big image issues on this forum though and can't see a damn thing. Maybe try uploading with Imgur? That is a great website for uploading pics
Exhaust manifold is done. The copper gaskets felt like they squashed up. I took the engine out to set up the clutch and throwout bearing. The bellhousing required some modification to fit the hydraulic throwout bearing, Tilton makes a throwout bearing that would fit no problem but it's 3x the price of the Howe bearing I'm using. Hopefully the images will be visible.
I love the use of the red paint on all the fittings/bolts. It's like Mazda's doing this job man. What an inspiring build and incredible attention to detail. This is great stuff!
I had to do an unexpected modification to the driveshaft to get it to bolt to the diff flange. The idiots that made the driveshaft didn't copy the original diff flange from the factory driveshaft, but instead used some generic imperial flange with a bigger PCD. I couldn't be bothered dealing with them again so made my own adapter. It's some type of chrome-moly material. Now that the driveshaft is in the only jobs left now are, finish plumbing the clutch, make an exhaust from the headers back and wire in an ecu.
Nice save, so you didn't have to shorten the drive shaft to compensate?
No fortunately, there is enough fore and aft movement in the output shaft end. The adapter is only 17mm thick.
Got the Ecu, its a Link xtreme G4+. Still waiting on wiring bits and pieces, but I can start by mounting the Ecu, o2 controller and Egt amplifier. The Egt amplifier is made by a company called Reveltronics, haven't really heard much about this company but the price was good and seems like it's well made.
The ecu install and wiring are going well. This is the first time I have wired in an aftermarket ecu, So I'm learning as I'm going. Bleed the clutch last weekend, turns out the factory rx7 master cylinder bore is too small. The hydraulic throwout bearing needs a master cylinder with a 3/4" bore. The rx7 master is only 5/8". I'm waiting on an aftermarket one now.
the clutch pedal will get a lot heavier with a 3/4 master. all you need to do is remove the return spring from the back of the howe bearing and you can keep the stock master. clutch will feel nicer too.
the clutch pedal will get a lot heavier with a 3/4 master. all you need to do is remove the return spring from the back of the howe bearing and you can keep the stock master. clutch will feel nicer too.
Yeah, I guessed removing the spring would fix the problem. The only issue is that it's a big job to get the bearing out, So it's just easier to change the master cylinder for now.
The ecu is all wired and powered up. No melted wires or smoke which is good. All inputs and outputs tested fine.
The Peterson primer pump works well. So far i have put 10 litres of oil in the car, probably going to take about 5 more when the engine is running.
next job is to make the exhaust then I can have a go at starting the engine.
do you think the primer pump is necessary? im building one of these at the moment and im not sure if i need one or not
Probably not, i haven't seen one on a rotary before. But it is an expensive engine that will sit around for possibly weeks at a time. It's cheap insurance knowing that the engine has pressure before it's started. Also the price difference is less than $200 USD between the standard remote filter mount and the primer filter mount.
What's the details on your engine? I would like to know more.
Probably not, i haven't seen one on a rotary before. But it is an expensive engine that will sit around for possibly weeks at a time. It's cheap insurance knowing that the engine has pressure before it's started. Also the price difference is less than $200 USD between the standard remote filter mount and the primer filter mount.
What's the details on your engine? I would like to know more.
ye thats what im thinking as mine will sit for a couple weeks at a time too as its going into a track car and for 200usd more its piece of mind knowing it will have pressure before its started
my engine is a p port, x40 crank, lightened and race clearanced rotors , ported exhaust, billet s488sx-e turbo,dry sump, external oil feeds to the bearings and direct cooling for each rotor housing
ye thats what im thinking as mine will sit for a couple weeks at a time too as its going into a track car and for 200usd more its piece of mind knowing it will have pressure before its started
my engine is a p port, x40 crank, lightened and race clearanced rotors , ported exhaust, billet s488sx-e turbo,dry sump, external oil feeds to the bearings and direct cooling for each rotor housing
Sounds like it should go all right. Good luck with the build.
The clutch is working now with the larger bore master cylinder, still not perfect but can be sorted out later when the car is running. The exhaust is nearly finished. It's all stainless, the exhaust starts at 3" from the collector for about 2 feet then steps up to 3.5" for the rest. Only one muffler in the system so it should make a fair amount of noise! Very close to starting the car now.
