mannymazda

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys, I was wondering if there was anyone out there in the Rotary World who has converted their 12A electronic dizzy to a crank angle sensor set up? Would like to do it, but would also like some 411 from someone that has done it, before attempting it myself. Do I need the coil packs from a second gen or could I use my stock coils? Is there any special wiring from the CAS to the coils or vise verse? Just curious to try, but if unable with leave as it is!!! Hoping that someone out there can help? Oh by the way the 12A is in an RX2, just in case there is any questions on what type of car!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You would need an ECU or a standalone to read the CAS signal and then signal
the ignition for firing. A CAS signal is not compatible with the one generated from
the dizzy. It will require a lot more than just simply dropping it in and some rewiring.

mannymazda

iTrader: (8)

t_g_farrell thanks for that info, I thought it might have been complicated. I'll just stick with the old trusty cap and rotor dizzy. I appreciate it!!!

gerald m

The only way is to use a 1st. gen dizzy with a vacuum advance and then go to direct fire ignition .. It's not something most guys want to do ..

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

Its been so long i forget the details, but I tried a poor mans way with a GM module, 2nd gen CAS and a variation of direct fire coils on my 74 REPU... ended up with a electronic dizzy from a 1st gen (for the advance curve), but you still have split timing issues to deal with ( I ran zero split, firing the tailing with the leading).. another problem i recall is the setup doesn't know where 'home' is so it has a difficult time starting... once fired up and running it ran great.

MSD boxes could get it all working, but then you might as well go stand alone with fuel injection

gerald m

[QUOTE=BASTARD;10846785]Its been so long i forget the details, but I tried a poor mans way with a GM module, 2nd gen CAS and a variation of direct fire coils on my 74 REPU... ended up with a electronic dizzy from a 1st gen (for the advance curve), but you still have split timing issues to deal with ( I ran zero split, firing the tailing with the leading).. another problem i recall is the setup doesn't know where 'home' is so it has a difficult time starting... once fired up and running it ran great.. I used that system on my drag bike , I used 2 of the old style 4 prong modules from GM. ( they say the newer 7 prong are smarter what ever the hell that means I guess because it also fires the injectors ),, then used a trailing coil pack took them off their aluminum case and ended up with 2 separate trailing coils totally independent of each other . and wired them up separately to the two 4 prong GM. modules ,one for each leading plug .I never used the trailing plugs . I think it would be very potent with a set of G M.coils ( from inside the dist cap )I used the first gen electronic dizzy with the double vacuum advances.. There is for sure no starting problems ( it does have a bit of a break up around 4 grand but with me that is mostly fuel problems ..) I can start it as many times as I want cold or hot and there is never a flooding issue , generally I need to give the 500 holley about 3 good squirts to make it fire quick . very strong direct fire set up I don't know how good it would work on a dd but for what I am doing I like it . One thing about it is if you don't have the timing just right and I mean within 1 or 2 deg. it won't run worth **** . there is a sweet spot where it works great .. firing the trailing with the leading screws it up somehow .. I tried that and that is when I had starting problems .. and burned the tips of the lawn for about 8 ft. from the fire coming out the exhaust .. also if the pick up wires are hooked up backwards to the module it will run poor and start hard .. Anyway that's my story and I.m stickin to it ..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Just a thought but if you wanted to go to all electronic ignition, you could use the CAS, a Megasquirt and either FD or FC coils.

You'd need to mount an IAT, CLT and TPS. The wiring is pretty straightforward. Of course once you have full tunable ignition, you'll probably want to move to EFI.

mannymazda

iTrader: (8)

Thanks guys for all the info, but I've decided with budget problems, to stick to the cap and rotor style with IGNITORS!!! Thanks again!!!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

If you want a more powerful ignition cheap look into the DLIDFIS or other DFIS
setups. They work great and are significantly better than running the spark thru
the cap and rotor. My sig has a link to the setup I came up with using GM ignitorts
and Ford TFI coils. Search on DFIS for more variations.

gerald m

I used T G Farrells' wiring diagrams and they are very easy to follow ,, The only thing that I found with different diagrams from different threads is you need to watch the color codes on the wiring diagrams T G 's diagrams are correct but there are those that are not coded proper and they will screw you up when it comes to wiring the modules up to the dizzy and the coils .. DLIDFIS works , is very cheap to set up and is a huge improvement over the old cap and wires set up.. When I do my cross mount I think I will mount the modules inside the air intake hose before the filter , that way the cool ambient air is flowing past the modules all the time weather the car is moving or not . I think this idea would stop almost all heat related problems with the modules ,.. Why mount them in the engine bay where the heat is always high?? Have a good one