Bejeeta

Hi guys....I'm new to this forum so show me some love...or something... Anyways, my new project is to stick a 2nd gen. 13b Turbo into my Starlet. I know it can be done cuz those crazy Puerto Ricans do it all the time. I'm getting the engine with a 3rd gen. gearbox....I was told that these gearboxes are supposed to be close-ratio. Is this true? Also, I'm getting it sans a ECU box and MAP sensor. What I want to know is where I can get a standard 2nd gen ECU box (used of course), and what sort of money it would cost? I was thinking of using the standard ECU with an APEX'i S-AFC. Sounds good? Or should I just get a fully-programmable ECU like SDS or Electromotive or something? Any information would be greatly appreciated. I'm fairly new in this rotary world, but I have great respect for the engines and the performance they produce. 13b power!

rxrotary2_7

welcome! thy www.thepartstrader.com
i wish i still had some ecu's left to sell you, but i dont. you can pick them up cheap (20-30 us dollars) if i were you, i would go that route first to get the car up and running, then go to a stand alone. you have to be more specific as to what you are going t use, mayb its just me or maybe it was the 14hr work day, but i am a bit confused as to your plan. from my take on it, just use a turboII ecu for now.

Bejeeta

Hi,
Thanks for the link. Basically what I'm getting is a 2nd Gen. RX-7 13b turbo engine, complete with everything (turbo, alternator, starting motor, injectors, wiring harness, etc.), and a supposedly 3rd Gen. RX-7 gearbox. I have the driveshaft so I can customize it to fit my car and whatnot. The things I do NOT have are a high-flow fuel pump and ECU for the engine. So I am looking for a standard ECU from a 2nd. Gen turbo RX-7, and possibly a Cosmo in-tank fuel pump or something. I plan to put the rotary inside my Starlet....for now it will just be a street car....but eventually it's sole purpose will be for dragging. So I was planning to leave the internals of the engine standard....basic mods would be a rising-rate fuel-pressure regulator, dump-valve, front-mounted intercooler, and maybe an APEX'i Super-Air Flow Converter to manage the gas and air levels. Obviously the mandatory gauges would be bought (fuel pres.,AFM,boost,Oil). I've been told the engine stock runs between 6-8 psi of boost. The most I plan to run is 10 psi. Understand now that my car in full-metal trim weighs 740kg. I now have fibreglass fenders, bonnet, tailgate and back panels. When done my car should weigh about 640kg or LESS. I'm hoping with good traction to be able to do consistent 12s or maybe high 11s without porting. Think it's possible?

rxrotary2_7

your bigest expense is going to be a rear that can put that hp down to the ground. around me, a ford 9in or an 8.8 rear being cut down to fit would run you upwards or $2500-3000.(including parts) but it is posible to do what you are saying. my friends rx3 runs a turbo II motor w/ a to4 and a stock ecu and 2 aditional injectors controlled only by a $50 presure switch. it runns 11.02

Bejeeta

Hi,
I know traction is going to be a big problem with me. I know a guy that has a 2nd. Gen RX-7 doing mid-12's and he is CONSTANTLY breaking axles. But what about ignition? I'm told rotaries need alot of spark, so the stock Starlet ignition cannot support all of that spark, so I was thinking of getting either 2 MSD 6-AL boxes(I have 1 already), and 2 Blaster 3 coils or something to support the ignition side of it. Alternately, I toyed with the idea of getting 2 Crane Cam HI-6 boxes and coils. It works out cheaper than the MSD, and I've been told Crane delivers more spark.
What do you think?

rxrotary2_7

to be perfectly honest. why not get a stock set up? you would be amazed by how strong they are....i mean if (just to get it up and running) you are going to use the stock ecu, why not use the stock ignition for now. just a thought

Bejeeta

Ok guys....the gearbox I have is supposedly from a 3rd Gen. 13B TT....but it's bolted to a 2nd Gen. 13BT engine. Question is, which clutch & pressure plate do I use? Do the clutch & pres. plate differ with the 2nd and 3rd Gen. engines? Also I'm more then likely gonna be on 14" rims with 60 series tires. What final drive to use? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

btw...Happy New Year everyone!

NZGTrota

hi im new to this forum so please be nice i have done a toyota starlet conversion but with a gen2 s4 13b bridge port engine carby on it no injection, with a gen2 s4 gear box, I run a old toyota sprinter disc diff rear end, My problem is wiring up the electronic distributor , I want to know whether i need ignitor packs or does the distributor have them built in?meaning i only have to hook up a + and a - to the distributor to make it work?if i need ignitor packs im going to use old toyota cresseda ones as they fit on to anything and are easy to wire up please help

Bejeeta

Hi man, glad to see another Toyota Starlet man on the forum! Don't we have great lil cars? Anyways, in terms of the distributor, my engine isn't coming with that, the coil packs or starting motor. I'm getting the coil packs with igniters & distributor from a junkyard. My advice would be to try and find some used 2nd. Gen or 3rd.Gen coil packs as they come with the igniters. Apart from that, I have no idea about the electronic side of things.... I plan to use Cressida front struts & discs and a Cressida rear. Minor things....programmable ECU, competition clutch and front-mount intercooler on in the works. Looking to run around 10psi of boost comfortably. Should be mad....but we'll see! Hope I was of help.

Big_Will

Hey guys,

I'm really excited about this. I just found a 1982 Starlet in the paper near me. I would really like to do a rotary engine transplant. Do you guys have websites or something detailing how you installed rotaries in your starlets? I'm going to make a race car for autocross and drift/track work. Any suggestions for axles/suspension/brake donors? I want to know EVERYTHING. I'm really eager to get started on a project car. Thanks again.

Will

NZGTrota

well i dont have a web page but anyway this is what i am runing in my starlet, i got a old rear wheel drive sprinter diff with a disc brakes,im using and just got a pair of s4 rx7 front struts with brakes to stop me, you will need to chop the old 4k engine mounts out and build a new set for the rotory motor, also as most rx gear boxs are and work beter with hydrolic clutches the trans tunnel well need to be dented so it can fit the slave cylinder in and a booster fitted to the firer wall the rest is like what you want trill and error to find what works best for you and your bugget have fun play and building it. these cars rock.

Big_Will

Hey,

I'm trying to keep everything as cheap as possible (beater autocross car). Do you think a rotary starlet has performance advantages over say a 4A-GE/4A-GZE Starlet? Are there more issues with adapting the rotary to the AE86 axle than with the 4a-ge or 4a-gze?

I'm really excited about getting started wrenching on a car and then taking it to the autocross. Thanks for your help.

Oh by the way, the Starlet I'm looking at is an '82. I think there was a new model from 83-84? Is there a specific year I should look for or just jump on the one I found? Thanks again.

Will

NZGTrota

hey
in your reply you said trying to keep things cheep as all these conversions have different costs to make them go,I know the 4age block bolts straight in again unless you have lots of electrical knowledge you would be better running the 4age with carbys as you dont need electrics to run them, if you can get a complete rear wheel drive sprinter with the 4age block everything will bolt in except the drive shaft making the conversion easier, but then theres weight-the piston motor weighs just a little more than the rotor though the rotor is a little easier to make horse power out of, with the porting of plates in the motor you can make the rotory move & get up to 300bhp non turboed just geting it peripheral ported so man the choise is yours i know what i would do and thats stick with a 13b peripheral ported motor with the right carby your car will move, heres a site were i go to its from my home land new zealand its got some of our crazy conversions on it not mine but other peoples its www.badrotor.co.nz have a look its a cool site and i am a mechanic and my boss has a 700+bhp godzilla have a look if you want its www.cmooremotors.co.nz sweet

NZGTrota

and yeah just a quick note on what car to buy the 83-84 starlets look a bit better, more plastic but there is a model was made its got vented front brakes and its called the sprint starlet they have the sprinter wheels on it to , but otherwise it dont matter its what shape you like

Big_Will

Hey,

How come people in New Zealand can do a 20B swap no sweat while the people on this board are like DONT DO A 20B BECAUSE ITS A HUGE MONEY PIT. Hehe, just a random thought. Thanks for your advice. Though I'm trying to keep it cheap, I think availability will have a big factor in what I choose. I really would like to do a rotary if it's at all practical. I'm afraid that my lack of experience will mess some things up, but this project is supposed to be a learning experience anyway. Thanks again.

Will

yayarx7

Cause a 20b was sold in cars in NZ and austrailia and not here.

NZGTrota

although they were sold the laws here in new zealand are quite easy on engine swaping, and that makes things lots easier i know in aussie their laws are shocking you have to run caterlic converters but here in new zealand we dont and other stuff like that, on that badrotor site there is a 20b starlet and also a 20b rear wheel drive 323 mazda with tubs its nuts but so very very cool have a look, also they take the turbos off and the injection and run carbies,so the electrics dont hassel them aswell as runing a manual gear box cause all 20b were auto

HWO

the advantages of dropping in a rotary compared to a 4AGE or 4AGZE, well a 4AGE with aftermarket injection - built properly can make 220HP relabily, with the AGZE - i'd ditch the supercharger and inlet manifold in favour of a turbo and a custom made inlet manifold/plenum - it has the potential for alot more HP than the supercharger will ever manage. around 350HP is possible on the turbo'd 4agze, however, a 13BT has the potential for 500HP with ease when fitted with the right sized turbo, aftermarket efi system and the correct fuel system. soooooo

the advantage of going rotary over 4AGE or 4AGZE is HORSES OF COURSES

Bejeeta

Glad to see some Starlet support! I have toyed with MANY turbo & engine conversions to put into my Starlet.....I had an NA 5K (1500cc, push-rod) with carbs,cam,extractor....used to run real good...and I had originally planned to turbocharge that engine (the 5K has low-compression pistons). Somewhere along the line I changed my mind to turbocharging a 3T (1800cc, pushrod)...I said if the boys in Puerto Rico can do it, so can I! Then my mind changed to a turbo 4A-GE, and then to a high-comp 4A-GZE....but I'm settled on my rotary project. Reason being with a stock 13B Turbo engine...with 3" exhaust piping, front-mount intercooler and a proper ECU and fuel system the engine should be good for at LEAST 220 bhp...and we haven't fooled around with boost yet! Picture all that hp in a 750kg car body....it's BOUND to be fast, or have REALLY bad traction!

NZGTrota

and with that stock 13b with a 3inch exhaust and front mount do so porting to the motor and make it sing, thats why i didnt do a turbo injected conversion, me not liking electrical stuff i found a monster port 13b is good for around 200bhp with the right carby set up, I just got a 12a dizzy with built in ignitors it makes it the world of ease wiring up the electronic ignition so im off to get it runing and go for a thrash so see you guys later

Bejeeta

NZGTrota, what final drive are you using? And what size rims are you planning on using also? I have a set of 13" Compomotive rims here, and a brand new set of 13" Bridgeston slicks....I have no experience with the gear ratios of the RX-7 gearbox, but I was planning on running on 13"s with a 3:7 or 3:9 final drive. On the slicks of course. What do you think?

Big_Will

Hey guys,

I can't decide between putting a rotary into a Starlet or converting an SR5 to GTS AE86. I'd probably put a rotary in the AE86 too . The thing about it is that I supposedly can't drift in Starlets because the wheelbase is too short. I CANT DECIDE. If I can talk some prices down, I might go and get both .

Will

NZGTrota

hay Bejeeta im using the diff out of a old rear wheel drive sprinter like the old corolla shape that everyone drifts in it has a disc brake set up though not sure of the gear ratios, ill be using 13inch hotwire mags with 235/40/13s bridgeston rubber all the way round, my girlfriend has choosen the paint purple with a black pearl in it looks nice

Bejeeta

Thos Sprinter diffs are normally 4:3 LSD....I think that gearing might be a little bit tall for my application. A large majority of my car will be fibreglass as well (fenders,bonnet,tailgate,back panels) and I'll be running a turbo engine as well....I think I'll get either a 3:7 or 3:9 if i come out on 13s, or maybe try a 4:1 if I come on 15"s. We'll see how it goes!

NZGTrota

sweet glad to know what the ratio is on that diff, and ill be getting one with LSD in it to have fun if you know what i mean,haha im in to boy racing alot to so it will be a quick street car when ive finished it