Yes I'm f'ing serious about the timing... thanks for loving the build tho

it has some sort of FD pulley, maybe Chris knows the brand or what its off of. Anyways, Chris scribed the timing marks on the serpentine pulley and made me this little drawing



here is the actual pulley


when i follow this diagram the engine will not start, with testing different positions and twisting the CAS the motor will start and run somewhere between 2,500 rpm and 6,500 rpm @ +30-35 degrees timing (leading and trailing) which is verified by the pfc commander.

 

Are you sure the pulley is oriented the correct way? Is it keyed so it only goes on one way? Are you sure you have the CAS gear in the proper spot when you are stabbing it in?

Also, I think you are readying the timing backwards. Assuming chris's drawing is correct, the mark you have it on in the last picture would be 25 degrees ATDC

 

Reference the key in the drawing to orient the timing marks. i.e. the one just clockwise of the key will be -5 or 5 degrees btdc. Should just set leading on the 5 atdc mark and stab the dizzy, if that doesn't work the rotors may be in the wrong place or something along those lines, if that is possible. not really sure as I have never rebuilt a motor,.

 

Not possible to install the rotors the wrong way. I must emphasize the only way chris's drawing is correct is if you were looking behind the motor. rather than looking at the front.

 

Does the motor rotate clockwise when looking at it from above? I surely can't remember.,lol

 

I would still reference the key way to double check aaron. Can't be this hard can it, I mean **** this should be the easy part. got the leading plug wires on correctly etc.

 

Also the pulley kit is

Guitar Junkie serpentine pulley kit he was selling them about 5 years ago, unfortunately I believe he passed on around the same time. It should be a copy of the Mazda speed one.

 

If you are looking at the motor on the front cover side, it spins clockwise.

 

is this common thought between everyone ?

personally I was observing this reference from a looking at the motor from the front of the vehicle. Hornbm it seems as if this is looking at the pulley from the back side is how your doing it. still confused here but glad to be getting new ideas and stuff to try.

 

Your green mark is correct. Think about how the motor spins.

 

looks like there is some white paint a 0 degrees, which is something I usually do on my cars for a reference. Stop running into bmw's and get this beast running.

 

thanks for the help with looking at the reference, makes much more sense now, that said its still not starting up. I don't know what I'm doing wrong now?

the BMW ran into me!!! haha good thing i'm like a CAT and landed on my feet, or have 9 lives i forget which.
ps I wanted to punch the driver right in the solar plex!

 

^ Don Gato reference?

 

3 months later and this engine will not start up bump.

any ideas ?

 

have you checked everything else is in working order? I've seen rotarys fire up really out of time.

 

everything except the timing works properly.

 

Initial set coupler? Iknow theres a way to get tdc by lining up an apex seal with one of spark plug holes, that should get it close enough to figure out.

 

your saying just take a guess of 1 out of 3 apex seals when it passes over the bottom plug.
33.33333333334% chance i find the right apex seal in relative positioning of the engine?

 

If i remember correctly you pull the plugs from front rotor, turn the engine over by hand till you hear the compression come from the plug holes. that should be the right face. and I don't know the exact procedure of getting tdc but you turn till you see the the seal dead center of the trailing (top) plug hole, make a mark under the marker, then turn the rotor till seal is dead center of leading plug hole mark it and then theres some mesureing. I'll see if I can find the info. this is just from memory, I have bad short term memory

edit: Here you go, so my info's a little off. btw. found this link in your other thread but you said you had problems with calculations. well I'm fair at math so do the mesurements I'll do the math.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/topi...rmal-question/
Also maybe try using a stock pully to see if the marks you have line up with the stock one???


also timing lights are easy. once the cas is in close to tdc only snug it down but make sure you can move it right or left., you put the clamps on the battery terminals. I expect you where to put red and black clamps. then place the clamp on the front leading plugwire, start the car point the light at the crank and turn the cas till mark lines up with the pointer. simple

 

I did the whole thing where i find the apex seal in the trailing hole, then spin the pulley so i can see the apex seal in the leading hole. marked both locations where the apex seal was visible in the spark plug holes. divided that measurement in half and made a mark on the string, then i put the string back on the pulley and found where the half measurement lands on the pulley (which happen to be the 3rd mark on the pulley) Then I removed the cap on the cas, removed the cas, lined the cas up to the mark, stabbed the cas again, lined up the gear on top of the cas so it was perfectly lined up. Went to start it and nothing. turning over @ 175rpms and never once showed any hint of starting up.

 

.

 

What are you using for a leading coil(s)?

 

stock coils w/msd box

 

stock coils from a what? You have a second gen engine controlled by a fd power pc in a first gen body.

 

FC or FD coils