Getting toward the driveable stages of my build, and need some help figuring a few things out. I work from home and have a flexible schedule.

Basically where I'm at is:

• pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my trailing ignition is firing before my leading: (https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ading-1050695/)
• pulling my hair out trying to figure out why my two RPM switches are occasionally wigging out and reading insanely high (like 9k or 11krpm) then immediately drop back to actual RPM, each pulled from same signal, ground, and power, but wigging out independently of each other (particularly after engine is warm)
• street tuning a haltech F9 fuel-only computer. I have basic maps figured out - i can drive it around the block, it usually dies when coming to a stop even though i can free rev it just fine without it dying. cold/hot start seems off (i guess thats all starts?), and throttle pump adjustment seems beyond my grasp of comprehension. I have an old laptop with the haltech software loaded on it i've been using.

Any help appreciated, and I'm definitely down compensate for your time.

Bonus points if you can help me get her in good shape by Saturday for Fest (hah nothing like last minute, eh? I tried to get as far as I could before admitting defeat).

~Geoff
(206) Two Nine Three - 3177

I live in north Seattle area

 

Regarding the trailing firing before leading. As there is no computer control here, it has to be in the wiring. Could be something as dumb as ignitor leads swapped around. Did you rewire the whole ignition system? It looks pretty clean which makes me thing you might have been in there.

 

Call me!

 

you have a wideband?
ive never really messed with the haltech f9.
briefly played with the e6k, and I use the rtek 2.1 on my fc

it probably dies when coming to a stop because your on the brakes, the load from the brake lights+ brake booster,

perhaps you may need to modify the zero throttle fuel map ( maybe richen it up a bit, or perhaps add the fuel at slightly higher rpm and lower rpm.

was also reading about deaceleration fuel cut off do you have this enabled? (also does it have a certain rpm its enabled at? some systems start adding fuel early, so whe the rpm is falling it catches at a higher rpm, doesn't fall so fast to just die before getting fuel)

the throttle pump has to do with the tip in, sudden increase in throttle position, have to watch what your a/f are doing, if its spiking lean for a second and hesitating at a sudden throttle change u may need to increase these levels.

as for the starting you may just need to try addusting the levels, if it seems like its flooding they may be to rich.

 

Hornbm - got the trailing back in order. The trailing advance pot was all the way advanced - I didnt know it could advance past the leading timing. Also had the dizzy stabbed 180 off - how the f** i did that i can't figure out. In my futile attempts i managed to drain the battery, so its charging now.

Kompressor - Yes on the wideband, i've got an AEM UEGO - but its not hooked up to the F9 for closed loop. I need to build a special harness for that and figure out where to install a jumper to enable 0-5v mode - Haltech reps don't know because "the f9 was discontinued 20 years ago and no longer supported, we dont know. ask online."

Excellent tip on the brake booster. I'll try richening up the zero throttle map and see what happens.

I do have the decel fuel cut enabled. I'll take a look and see if there's any RPM setting tomorrow. I just noticed the Haltech manual troubleshooting section mentions to disable for first tuning.

I have a trim control **** that can add or remove injector open time, and have been trying to figure out what it needs at start, it seems that i've got it about right, but it still doesnt start well. In retrospect I'm fairly certain this is due to the bad timing. Now that I (think) I've got the timing in the right direction, we'll see what its liking.

I'm crossing my fingers I didnt damage anything with my horrible timing attempts

 

Geoff, stabbing the dizzy 180 degrees off is actually fine. Try this FYI. Hand crank your engine (19mm socket on the main drive pulley bolt). First notice where the flat spot on the dizzy shaft is. It should point forward with a reluctor tip at the leading pickup's steel core. Now crank the engine a complete 360. Now notice the dizzy is 180 degrees off. Crank it a full 360 again. The dizzy shaft is now lined back up to zero. It's magic I tell you!

 

I had no idea you could even do that!

 

because the gear on the dizzy has twice as many teeth on it as the timing gear?

 

So I've been cruising around for a bit, she's anxiously awaiting 6ports and VDI operation, these rpm switches just aren't going to work for me.

After some chatting with Matt, he's got me sold on the megasquirt. It will be able to control the solenoids directly, based on CAS timing and manifold pressure, perfectly emulating OEM engineering. This will eliminate the rpm switch gremlins from the equation completely, and give me the opportunity to upgrade to an FC ignition system while I'm at it.

On that note, anyone have a full FC ignition system for trade?

-Geoff

 

Sounds like my first project... that I completely gave up and put a weber on it :-)

How are you making the aux ports and the vdi work? I don't see an airpump in there. Electric? Curious. You mentioned RPM switches.

 

I've got a 2.5lb CO2 tank



Which is routed to the engine bay where it Tees into two aftermarket brass solenoids, one for 6port and one for VDI

 

Cool setup!

 

wow on the co2 tank never seen that kind of setup!