1Seven4Me

iTrader: (1)

I have the carrier out of a S4 T2 differential and am considering rebuilding it this fall/winter to replace my current one.

first, does anyone has links to other rebuilds and/or how-to's, tips, tricks etc. ???? ways to save money?

I've noticed that my current diff needs to be more aggressive. When doing a burnout in the water box(drag racing), I have noticed on many occasions that one wheel will begin spinning long before the other does... so I know my current diff does work, it's just not as aggressive as I'd like. Mazdatrix and Mazdaspeed offer slightly thicker friction plates, and thrust washers.... is this what's needed?

friction discs are offered in 1.75 mm and 1.85 mm
and thrust washers are offered in 1.5 mm 1.6 mm and 1.77 mm

my goal is to make it almost a spool.... I suppose 1.85 mm discs and 1.77 mm washers with new friction plates would be the most aggressive setup, but IDK, maybe that's too much. it adds all of about 1mm to the total...

Thanks for any help or links!

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

I have done all that. Is there a reason you are not just welding it?

I went with a 1.77mm thrust washer from mazdaspeed and it really did help the lockup. Preload went from 35 to 68. Now a year later and a lot of drifting on the unit it started to go open when I put on my nice Falken 615k tires. The preload just couldn't hold such a sticky tire and it would go open.

I ended up welding it, and it is 1000000x more consistent than it going open randomly. With it welded I still drive it to and from the tracks. Is it optimal, no, do I wish my OS Giken would have shown up in time, yes, does welding it do the job for pocket change, you betcha. Do you look like an idiot in a parking lot driving slow, for sure. XD

Once you open the diff you will see how easy it is to put the thicker washers in. I wouldn't mess with the plates unless you know yours are warn, mine were in perfect shape and thickness even when I took it to go get welded.

If you need someone to weld it let me know, my buddy does it for cheap here in the NW.

~Tweak



Oh you are LS1 drag car? Just weld it for sure. The stock 1 way diff is soo lazy to lock up.

1Seven4Me

iTrader: (1)

weld it, huh? i don't tax the diff like you do, but I also don't want lots of random slip on the starting line or in the water box...... I'd rather it grab within 1/2 revolution in the burnout box, and stick solid on the starting line(but that's not a problem so far with hot slicks)

I wish someone made a mini-spool, or even a full spool, for the T2 diff.... they'd have 2 crowds to sell it to- drifters and drag racers.

hmmm... how many splines are on the stub shafts? I should do some research.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

..... a spool is the same as welded..... lol

flight_of_pain

a soda can shim or two between the outer cone washer and the case will give it new life.


Isaac

twilight slide

This. Minus some weight obviously.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

That is the same thing as the thrust washers he mentioned earlier except less sketchy.