cloudasc

It is the end of August, and my tabs will expire tomorrow, I have taken my car through emissions twice, and failed both times.

1985 Mazda Rx7 GS
1.1L Carberated Rotary
Stock Exhaust
215420 Miles

The first time i took my car to emissions I passed everything but the IDLE Hydrocarbon. (Too Much Fuel)

The second time, i failed all my tests and the results are:
HC (PPM), CO (%), CO+CO2 (%), 02 (%)
Cruise Limit: 180, 1.3, 6, N/A
Cruise Emisssions: 283, 2.34, 15.04, 1.33
Idle Limit: 220, 1.2, 6, N/A
Idle Emissions: 414, 1.33, 10.83, 6.69

Odd thing while I was testing at cruise of 25mph, in second gear, my tach was reading 3500rpm, but their machine reported 1110rpm

And at idle, they couldn't get a proper reading it bounced from 950, to 1500+, my tach was reading 900-1000rpm

I know that my two pre-cats, are burnt away, and I have 50% left of my monolithic.

I have replaced my spark plugs, my secondary's had bad deposits on them, I have MSD Blaster Ignition Coils, and I am running a stock exhaust, that i am pretty sure is partially clogged, and causing excess restriction in my exhaust.

It sounds like my car is having misfiring, because i hear put put put from my exhaust, and it just might be because of the restriction in my exhaust. I adjusted the timing, and tried adjusting the fuel/air mixture screw, but I can't seem to find a good balance between lean, and rich.

I have enlarged the hole for the air supply that feeds the catylitic converter.

I am reaching out for help, any advice would be greatly appreciated, I would also like to possibly meet up with some experianced rotory heads, to get my car emissions worthy. As compensation for anyone who can help me with this in person, i'll treat you to some beer, and a BBQ.


Thanks you for your help, and your time,
Signed,
Anthony S. ***

P.S. I live in Northgate, Seattle.

hammmy

Bad trailing ignition? That's what the erratic tach brings to mind.

cloudasc

I'm pretty sure my trailing ignition isn't the problem, i had a primary igniter die on me, and i had to replace it. My tachometer isn't the one that is bouncing erratic, it was they sensor that plugs into my cig lighter. And the first time i went through emissions, it had no problem reading my rpm's.

bstrange99

It's a great big vaccume leak on the back of your intake manifold. It's a big hose that comes off the intake, on the back, and goes to the back of the block, right above the exhaust manifold. It's probobly got a big crack in it from the heat.

EDiddy

just take it out to ENumclaw they dont give a **** about restrictions there no matter where you be from

if they ask jsut tell them your friend threw a huge bash and yuor tabs are expiring today so you thought you stop in on your way home and they will give them too you
its what i did anyway but i live a little closer thatn you do to Enumclaw

cloudasc

Which hose are you talking about?



The only hose that seems to be loose at all is the one coming off the front of my air intake in picture 1. The other vacuum hoses seem to be intact!

ddub

Hook the airpump straight to the main cat via the split air pipe (I assume first gens have these too?) and retest.

etherhuffer

Most failures from hydrocarbon are from a bad cat(can't burn the HC's) or lack of air(bad air control valve) Check em both.

cloudasc

Does anyone have a stock 2x pre-cat, monolithic catylitic coverter i can borrow?

bstrange99

I'm talking about the hose I've outlined in red. Remove it, and check the elbow on the bottom side of it. If there is a crack in it, it will cause the car to act like you've described.

cloudasc

Alright, I yanked the vaccuum hose you outlined, and there is no crack in it.
Should i just completely bypass everything and hook my airpump directly into my catylitic converter, or should i just remove the pressed cardboard wafer thing, that comes off the back of the intake, while i do emissions? And if i hook my airpump directly into my cat, what should i do about intake inlet and outlet i've bypassed?

5x7

I had same problem ending up going to emissions station and it was the main converter was not any good. Car has 150,000 on it

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

"hi my car doesn't run but my landlord requires current tabs to park it on property"

"yes of course i'll have it tested when i get it running again"

"thank you for the tabs (sucker!)"

angelck022

spend the $35.00/ year for a po box outside the emissions testing area, and spend the money you were going to put toward a new smog pump/diagonosing the reason you were failing --into mods .

EDiddy

that doesnt work anymore
tehy have been cracking down on that
at least thats what i heard