OK SRSLY WTF @^$@(#* Engine won't come out!!!!!!
oK SERIOUSLY. Breath...
Ok so today I decided that the motor was to come out once and for all so i can rebuild it over next weekend. Did this
Finished disconnecting the oil cooler lines, pulled the ECU through the fire wall, DC'd the flywheel bolts through the service hatch on the tranny, Removed the started, Removed the DP bolts to the cat, Removed all the bell house bolts, removed the tranny harness and put in in the engine bay, removed clutch line
Now the engine has a 3" gap all the way around the bellhouse, seems to float freely when I shake rattle and pull it BUT THE MOTHER*&^@*&#^@^#% won't come out WTF seriously jesus! I quit......
help
thanks Seth
Ok so today I decided that the motor was to come out once and for all so i can rebuild it over next weekend. Did this
Finished disconnecting the oil cooler lines, pulled the ECU through the fire wall, DC'd the flywheel bolts through the service hatch on the tranny, Removed the started, Removed the DP bolts to the cat, Removed all the bell house bolts, removed the tranny harness and put in in the engine bay, removed clutch line
Now the engine has a 3" gap all the way around the bellhouse, seems to float freely when I shake rattle and pull it BUT THE MOTHER*&^@*&#^@^#% won't come out WTF seriously jesus! I quit......
help
thanks Seth
removed the flywheel bolts through the service hatch? are you talking about the bolts that hold the pressure plate up against the flywheel? and why would you do that anyway? it's not necessary at all.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
removed the flywheel bolts through the service hatch? are you talking about the bolts that hold the pressure plate up against the flywheel? and why would you do that anyway? it's not necessary at all.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
Yeah I think that's what i'll do. The PITA part is that whoever owned the car in Japan tac welded the exhaust hanger bolts....so I'll have to get the air chisel out. I was so frustrated last night. Anyway I'll get back under the car tonight after work and start that job....fun fun...I love my car.
i say manhandle that bitch. sounds like you got it disconnected, you have gap. wouldn't be the first motor i pulled that wasn't aligned as i pulled it out. put some ***** on it and it will come. wiggling it helps too. i may be wrong, but have had that same challenge a few times. good luck.
7 Power. Thanks man. I thought that by removing the pressure plate bolts that would be a non-issue. I will look at the motor again tonight after work and report back with results.
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removed the flywheel bolts through the service hatch? are you talking about the bolts that hold the pressure plate up against the flywheel? and why would you do that anyway? it's not necessary at all.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
why aren't you pulling the trans with the motor? it's WAY easier, 4 bolts in the crossmember, 3 in the shifter assembly, 4 bolts for the drive shaft and bam your done. i've done a million motor swaps in my FC and that's the easiest and fastest way to get it done.
but if you do insist on doing it the harder way the input shaft may have rust on the tip of it and isn't letting you pull it completely out. it's not very likely but you never know. unless you never disconnected the motor mounts, because you didn't list that up there lol.
2) Completly different on a FD.
3) Sounds more like a damaged pilot bearing, causing the tip of the input shaft to stick.
Dropping the tranny means you need to pull the driveshaft, powerplant frame, drain the transmission, full exhaust, shifter, and is a general PITA.
If you have a 3" gap between engine and transmission, you should be able to easily see the input shaft. If its more like 1-1.5" of gap, are you sure you got all 6 bolts on the flywheel? Maybe the pressure plate is not completely disconnected from the alignment pins and binding.
Honestly, if you are having this many problems, you might want to ask yourself if you really should be doing this work.
If you have a 3" gap between engine and transmission, you should be able to easily see the input shaft. If its more like 1-1.5" of gap, are you sure you got all 6 bolts on the flywheel? Maybe the pressure plate is not completely disconnected from the alignment pins and binding.
Honestly, if you are having this many problems, you might want to ask yourself if you really should be doing this work.
spyder. I've rebuilt numerous egos and stis but this is my first bout with the rx7. I honestly was just frustrated because I've never had and engine give me such a problem.
Sorry typed that from my phone. Anyway...motor is out now. I just needed to look at it with fresh eyes. I guess i was overlooking the obvious after being under the car for a full 9 hours yesterday.
basically a teeny-tiny portion of the flywheel was witting the bell housing on the way up. Thus causing the un-even gap. Also the DP was hitting the heat shield on it's way up causing the motor to not move the way I wanted it to. So a little more time spent with a jack under the tranny and the engine hoist to align things better and all went smoothly.
Moral of the story...Slow down....use a larger padded pry bar and lift.
Thanks for the help and letting me rant. Next time I will def just drop the tranny too!
Seth
basically a teeny-tiny portion of the flywheel was witting the bell housing on the way up. Thus causing the un-even gap. Also the DP was hitting the heat shield on it's way up causing the motor to not move the way I wanted it to. So a little more time spent with a jack under the tranny and the engine hoist to align things better and all went smoothly.
Moral of the story...Slow down....use a larger padded pry bar and lift.
Thanks for the help and letting me rant. Next time I will def just drop the tranny too!
Seth
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