ok so i called jeffs and im picking up a resistor today.

would not having that resistor really keep the car from starting?

 

yea the chassis is an 88 and i just looked at the old harness and i dont even have that resistor plug on it hahah.

****. I really hope this is the problem. :] i guess i wont be losing my job afterall


so what does the resistor do that keeps me from running?

 

.

 

If you don't have the resistor pack plugged in, you have broken the circuit to the fuel injectors. So basically you don't have ANY signal getting to the injectors right now at all, hence why it wont run.

 

just because you never know what has happened in the passed 22 years did you ever check to see if you had high or low imp injectors? cause we could be sending you on a wild goose chase if thts not the case. could be as simple as soldering a could wires together...

 

^^true...

 

it runs :]. it was the resistor pack.

just...now i have this horrible jumping hesitaion when on throttle sometimwes..

 

Good to hear it man. Enjoy the FC!

 

sweet. glad to hear its going!!

 

have you comp tested the motor yet?

 

AHHHH FUUUUck.... guys. I have ANOTHER problem..

when i try to start it now it takes for ever!! i have video of it. i keep having to fight with it.

ANNNND... while driving i cant rev about 2k without violent jerking

 

when tryin to start it does it stink like gas? may be floodin itself out.. common issue.
the bucking. maybe an electrical issue? how are all your grounds? esp the ecu ground?

 

yea i smells gas. hows that easy? is it running too rich or somthinG?


my grounds arent great but they are ok. wheres the ecu ground??

 

It means it's going to explode.
















Nah dude it's flooding, you need to lean it out a bit.

 

yea how do i control the Air fuel mixture??

 

First of all you cant adjust the Air fuel mixture on the factory system. There is an air fuel mixture adjustment screw on the AFM, but it should NEVER be used. Im not sure about the s4, but in the s5 mazda went to great lengths to make sure you would never even SEE the adjustment screw (buried under thick plastic.) I don't mean to be mean, but ignore that lean it out comment. You have a different problem, artificially leaning it out isn't the answer.

Anyway, I would check the following. Make sure you have no vac leaks, and make sure your ignition system is in good shape. Calibrate the TPS. Might suspect AFM after that.

 

ohw exactly do i check for vacuum leaks with the fan blowing at my face at 2000rpms? haha

and whats the TPS?

 

anyone know how to fix my high idle problem without a checker light or any of the mazda tools?

cause i have no access to those and im super confused.

ill post up a video in a bit about the "hard to start my car" thing i said earlier.

 

Sorry for the giant thumbnail...
this is what i have to go through just to start it. I wasnt able to get video of it actually starting but about a min after i put down the phone it started.

now when it starts it bounces up to 1.2k then straight to 2k and doesnt drop even if you let it just sit for 30 min. I drove it down the street and when you just coast it stays at 2k which is loud and annoying...

it will however drop when you slowly let off the clutch as it grabs into gear. but other than that its constantly at 2k.

ill post a video of it when fiance gets off work. she has a video.

 

well im sure there is a better way but this what i did. after my swap it would idle at 3k. yikes!! but anyways all i did was let some slack outta the throttle cable and bam problem fixed...

 

how much slack?? i had it 3mm deflection cause i hate freeplay in my pedals but i loosened it to maybye 3/4 inch deflection and didnt change a thing.. maybe i did it wrong?

did you loosen the nut closest to the TB first or what.

 

to lower the idle i would move the back nut away from the tb.then tighten the front one up. if that makes sencse.

 

yea it does. Well i just took it out for another run. havent touched the cable just yet.

but on my run i only experienced the violent jerking once. after that i was able to rev up to 4k safely. my idle's still nasty high though. my o rings are going out noticed blue smoke when i started revving to 5k in the driveway but im not really worried about that.

 

i wish i could remember what the temp oring fix was.. glad its going good for you though.

 

It really sounds like you have a vacuum leak. The initial kick off is the pump running because you are in start, but once you leave start, an appropriate amount of air must be moving past the AFM to keep the car running. A bad AFM could also be the problem.