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Old Apr 14, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mcnannay
the holley doesn't cut out if you convert to center hung floats
ok, well... I know enough about the nikki to get more than enough hp out of it for a stock 12a, so I'll stick with it for now. If I upgrade to anything else, it will be to supercharge it.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #27  
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I was thinking the same thing, stick a fogger in the spacer...

Come on, man, NITROUS is your friend!
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Greycobra_03
I was thinking the same thing, stick a fogger in the spacer...

Come on, man, NITROUS is your friend!

I'm seriously considering it. It would be different, if nothing else.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #29  
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Shopping list upcoming, I don't know which fogger we would use, I need to look at your car. Lemme get some PN from Summit (yes I am a redneck) to get you a base price if you went all new. Of course the price can be significantly reduced if you find stuff used. I already have an MSD window switch, and a WOT switch. There's $200 you don't need to spend
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:22 AM
  #30  
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sveet. looks like I'm doing a nitrous system!!!
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:52 AM
  #31  
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From: Spokane, WA
NOS-15210NOS 4AN-12 HOSE BLUE $23.39 Today

NOS-15210NOS 4AN-12 HOSE BLUE $23.39 Today

NOS-15295NOS 4AN - 14 FT HOSE BLUE $43.99 Today

NOS-16000NOS N20 CHEATER SOLENOID $95.95 Today

NOS-16080NOS POWERSHOT FUEL SOLENOID $62.95 Today

I would definately buy a bottle off Ebay etc. since new, you will pay just under $200. We need to look at your car to see what type of nozzle, plate, etc would work. I would hold off on a purge until you get an LSD, since you will just blow your tires off if you have the nitrous purged up to the solenoid when you launch. I have the MSD Window Switch (easy nitrous controller, I will show you how it works) and a WOT switch, plus some undrilled pills. We can fab up a blowdown tube no problem (this is a track requirement, safety) and some bottle brackets. Your decisions need to be 1. where to mount the bottle (I suggest somewhere easily reached from the drivers seat, so you don't need a remote bottle opener for the street), 2. what tires to run (nitrous adds TORQUE!) and 3. when you are ready to start! I would recomend going out to my friend Brian at Shelley's Performance to get your car tuned up on the nitrous (he also refills bottles) because he can stick you up on the dyno, and run it with the WBo2 to get it tuned up perfectly... you can also see exactly what kind of power it makes. (He is also a magician with carbs, I have seen him do some really cool stuff).

Let me know, and shop around on the local import boards for a nitrous bottle! That's the most expensive part of this project for you... I would definately buy new solenoids, since if a solenoid fails, you could be shooting nitrous into your idling/not yet running engine. BOOM!
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:58 AM
  #32  
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Double post...

Last edited by Greycobra_03; Apr 15, 2005 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:59 AM
  #33  
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WTF... my huge post isn't showing up???!!!

Edit: now it is... dammit.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 11:04 AM
  #34  
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To make a cool purge, we will need one more Nitrous Solenoid (cheap one, if you can find a used one that would work perfectly, since if it sticks open, all that happens is a very cool looking continuous purge = $35 in nitrous at worst), a couple SS brakeline fittings, SS brakeline, and a rail to mount both the nitrous solenoid and the purge solenoid on. Say $50 for the purge system in all.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 12:48 AM
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So, after spending all day on the car, I got the Sterling carb on it, the emissions removed and everything. I start it once... it ran great, cept I forgot to put the block off plate on the intake! After putting the blockoff plate back on, the battery was so dead, I couldn't start it again. dammit. no jumper cables either. I'll be getting some tomorrow.


can't seem to get the brakes bled, either... Anyone know the trick to bleeding the back brakes on a 1st gen with drums? is the only way to pull off the drums and compress the cylinders? Stupid pos... grr
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 10:49 AM
  #36  
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brian is the resident master on bleading back drum brakes.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 01:24 PM
  #37  
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My method for bleeding drums:
1. Jack up, and support vehicle.
2. Remove GODDAMNED drum rear. discard this peice,as it has absolutely no worth.
3. install lsd rearend.
4. bleed brakes.
Good luck chris. Let me know if you have any luck with it. I taking both of darlenes into a shop to be done.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 07:42 PM
  #38  
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I may do that... I need to get that lsd from you
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 09:28 PM
  #39  
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so, apparently, I flooded it... it won't start for ****... yeah, I've done everything except pull start it... gonna do that in a little while... wait till it gets closer to dusk... fewer people out.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:29 AM
  #40  
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How did it go, Chris?
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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apparently, I didn't get the coolant seals tight enough. (the ones that go to the intake manifold. So, coolant was leaking out and going into the intake! fun, egh?

Well, got new o-rings this morning, but they put me on night shift... I won't be messing with the car again until friday.
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