z-beater

Hey guys/gals check out the thread on the project that I have been working on. 8 months so far...yes I know that I am slow.


https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/project-f-d-wanna-b-503075/

David

Kouta

looking nice

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

lookings good.. hey ill take that turbo there, if u dont need it haha

rmriggin

so... how do you plan on getting a radiator to effectively work with this setup?

z-beater

Initially I was thinking about just putting fans in the front of the IC. And then placing another set of fans right in front of the engine as well.

Any suggestions are welcome. In other words I am looking for some suggestions. Maybe I will just have to go v-mount right off the bat. I hate spending more money at this point because I am about 10k deep into just the engine so far.

One thing is for sure I will not be taking it to extreme auto salon

Z

RotorJoe

Wow, good job Z. Its coming along very nicely. 400hp in a and FB will be quite the handfull as stated. You'll probably be able to fully light up four gear at any speed with that much power to the wheels. Good Times.


oh, nice turbo choice. I like!

z-beater

Yes it is. 400rwhp is prob a little too much but ehh, whatever. That is the beauty of a boost gauge I think that a person with this turbo in a second get was able to light up all 4 gears. After the summer though I will be putting a new drivetrain in her.

David

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

Looking good Dave. You need to hurry up it is almost february. That leaves you just three full months. This car has to go to ABF. If you need any help give me a shout. I am your local FB turbo club. LOL
Should have my FMIC done this weekend.
Good Luck

z-beater

Thanks Chris. I think that we are the only fuel injected turbo rotaries on the west side. I don't know though someone could be hiding.

I finished up the IC and now am ready for piping. Injectors are being shipped out today. I should have them back be next week.

Z

z-beater

Ok, really haven't posted on this for a while. I sent the car off to Gary Brooks this afternoon.

Should be back within a week or two. If you want to see more pictures look at the link in the first thread.

-kettlman-

i wanna see the SHOCKER!!!!!!

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

looks good hopefully you don't have too much power for those tires. I'd hate to have to beat you! LOL!!!!

z-beater

Get that crazy man away from my car.

I actually owe Allan a big thank you. He helped get the car done in the last mad rush.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Looking *GREAT* David!
Is it under its own power now?

z-beater

Hopefully soon...waiting for an elimination kit then we should be up and running.

I am sure that there will be little kinks that need to be worked out as well...

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I totally agree with you on the aesthetic value of the 13b rew, sure there was probably a easier way to do it but in the end, you came out with a GEM from the pics.
You should be very proud of the effort and the results you put into it!
Again looks FATASTIC!


I would still like to know what your plans are with the hood that looks like a project in of itself.

To me it looks like maybe you should have left the sheet metal on top and grafted onto the exit duct to make the internal scoop. And only leave a small opening in the hood, hopefully causing a nice vacuum at the interface.

z-beater

I am a little confused on what you are saying...I will tell you what though when I head down the the dyno day at the end of April I will just show you

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

NO NO NO your not getting off that easy…wise man say measure twice cut once.

What were your plans when you started?

What I was trying to express was that it looked like the parent hood material should have been left on the surface andf extra metal would be used to make the ductwork that extends from the IC to the hoods surface.

It looks like instead of one big gap that drops strait off, the parent material should have ran back further.

Obviously the pic is over exaggerated, but none the less I think it expresses what I am trying to convey.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

man that gif didnt come out very well i will try and get a better resolution

well its not my pic its the forums shrinking mechanism that forces th bad res i think

just squint real hard and and look through thick distorted glass.

Chi_San

Could always get a busted WRX and pull the scoop off of it. paint it, bolt it on, and call it a day?

I would have gone with a FMIC, but that's just me.

If you do stick with the tmic, it might be a good idea to run some additional ducting from whatever scoop you come up with. Getting good airflow over that will help a ton, especially when it gets really hot out.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Its theoretically impossible to get better total performance out of a stacked traditional front mount configuration VS a properly ducted V mount; cores being the same of course.

In this I believe he did the right thing no question.

z-beater

Ok, I get what you are saying now. Yes you are correct. There is an issue with the pictures that you see. I was speaking with Colormegone this afternoon and he brought up a really good point. He had built a hood on a mid engine car with the radiator up front. I will try and explain it...

With the hood vented how it is I was thinking that the high pressure across the top of the hood would form a suction that would draw the lower pressure air out from the IC space. I was correct BUT, there is a huge issue with this though that I over looked. Yes it will form a suction however that suction will be less than desireable.

So here is what I am going to do to rectify the issue. I plan on making a fin in front of the scoop. This will lift the air off the hood and force a suction. The only thing that I am not sure about is the height of the fin. I think that I am going to start small and play with the angles. This will allow me to figure out the maximum suction that can be desired from my setup.

I just need some sort of gauge that will measure suction. I could go with the feel method but that is not really stastical.

z-beater

Hey, there is a time and a place for a FMIC. I actually created the entire FM setup and then looked how much of the radiator it blocked. I did not like this. It literally blocked the entire rad except for 3". Now I am not saying that this will not work because that is NOT the case. There are actually a few people that are actually running this setup. I could just not put it on my car.

FMIC is way easier and a lot less time consuming. I did the mounting in about 2 hours. The H-mount took me about 40hrs. This is primarily because I like to make sure that I have everything right.

Scooby hood would not work because it is not a top mount. Here is a picture on how it would work.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I would think it would require a very precise vac gauge to see any change in pressure.

It just seems to me you need to get the air into the channel and get a nice velocity over a surface that will not dump into a sharp transition.

Just a wild guess but I would say the air would dump over the front edge of the ducting in the hood and slam into the air trying to escape rather than create a effective vacuum at speed.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Nothing against setzep I think he has a great head on his shoulders, but I always read that and it doesn’t make any sense at all!

Why would you take a IC and put it at the bottom, when it gets hot and while sitting it could have a chance to let heat radiate up to the radiator there is nothing to stop it.

And I hate it when people say the radiator will do this (I think this is peoples major argument with V mount as it is mentioned so many times)….it has a fan, all air is pulled through the core and out he bottom of the car! Very little if any heat is transferred to the IC while parked and the fans are on. Come to my place I will show you personally if you don’t believe me!
I have inspected this randomly on my car many times and have never noticed it. If I ever got off my lazy azz I would by a infrared temp gun and debunk those statements. (they have a great one on ebay for 300 that is a 50:1 and does like 2000+F IIRC)